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Context Tour — Understanding Venice, a City Built on Trade and Tolerance – By Foot. Venice, Italy. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Understanding Venice, a City Built on Trade and Tolerance – By Foot

“The most important thing to Venetians has always been money,” social historian Monica Vidoni tells us as we begin her Venetian Renaissance walking tour. It’s something we’re hearing often – even by Venetians – but it especially resonates as we stand on Campo Santi Giovani e Paolo where Venice’s riches are on display here, as everywhere, in the stunning architecture, the elaborate decoration, the intricate details, and the ornate statuary.

Venice’s second most important square after Piazza San Marco (although you wouldn’t know it, as it’s lovely and low-key by comparison), the Campo is home to the monumental 13th century Church of Santi Giovani e Paolo, with its elaborate sculptures and tombs of 20 doges, and the Sculoa Grande di San Marco, with its splendid marble façade.

Context Tour — Understanding Venice, a City Built on Trade and Tolerance – By Foot. Venice, Italy. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

The scuola was one of Venice’s most powerful cofraternities, an organization for which networking was as key as charity work. It’s now a working hospital, which we visit, but with its intricate decoration and courtyard garden, it looks like no hospital we’ve ever visited.

Campo Santi Giovani e Paolo was a site of elaborate processions (there’s a funeral while we’re here), public festivals, and street parties held to engage Venice’s citizens. As we’ll learn over the next few hours, Venice’s public life brought together different people and there was a mixing of social classes and ethnic groups in Venice that didn’t occur in other European cities at the time.

Context Tour — Understanding Venice, a City Built on Trade and Tolerance – By Foot. Venice, Italy. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Monica’s insight is especially pertinent, since we’re standing beneath the colossal Verroccio statue of Venetian soldier Bartholomeo Coleono atop his handsome horse. Having made his fortune as a mercenary Bartholomeo Coleono wanted a legacy, promising the City of Venice his wealth if they buried him at San Marco and erected a statue in his honour. They did bury him at ‘a’ San Marco, just not the one he’d hoped.

On our way to Campo Santa Maria Formosa, we cross Ponte delle Tetta, the ‘Bridge of Tits’, one of two places (the other at Carampane near Rialto) where, from the 15th century, prostitutes were lawfully required to show off their ‘wares’ to attract customers. Hours were regulated because the brothels were city-ran, an initiative aimed at maintaining social order, preventing attacks upon respectable women, and discouraging homosexuality, which the Republic, concerned about the amount of time sailors at sea and their reproductive capacity, saw as a threat to the survival of Venice.

Context Tour — Understanding Venice, a City Built on Trade and Tolerance – By Foot. Venice, Italy. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

At Campo Santa Maria Formosa, we take in the beautiful Renaissance church with its Byzantine details and the lovely piazza (now home to cafés) where spectacles such as a Pamplona-style bull run were once held, where people and dogs would jump in to chase the bulls in what was a rather dangerously chaotic mêlée.

From there we stroll to Campo San Zaccaria and the 10th century church of the same name, once part of Venice’s most important convent whose nuns, some daughters of doges, were the most influential women in Venice. Noblewomen had a choice to marry or become nuns, and as marriages tended to be political alliances, women were married off at 14 or 15 to ensure they were virgins and to take advantage of their most fertile years. As a result, many women chose to take their dowry and servants and enter the convent rather than face an unhappy marriage.

Context Tour — Understanding Venice, a City Built on Trade and Tolerance – By Foot. Venice, Italy. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Inside the church, beautifully decorated with paintings, Monica pops a coin into a slot to illuminate Giovanni Bellini’s exquisite Madonna and Saints (1505). In the adjoining Chapel of the Choir, where the nuns’ masses were held, we admire Tintoretto’s Birth of St John the Baptist. And beside it, the smaller Cappella di San Tarasio, currently being restored. We head down into a 9th century sinking crypt (it’s partly underwater when we visit) where eight of the first doges are buried.

While there are a lot of places for prayer, Monica reveals that the nuns weren’t as innocent as we might expect: the convent became notorious for its wild parties during the height of the 18th and 19th centuries carnivals when the nun’s rich boyfriends would sneak in. Back out on the square, Monica points out a plaque on the wall telling people not to play cards or ball games, don’t blaspheme, and to be respectful. “Plaques tell a lot about a place,” Monica says, “What they say not to do was probably what people were doing!”

Context Tour — Understanding Venice, a City Built on Trade and Tolerance – By Foot. Venice, Italy. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Next we stroll to the Ponte dei Greci (Bridge of Greeks), where we find a young Greek bride posing for her wedding photos with a cigarette in mouth, and San Giorgio degli Greci, the Greek church. Monica reminds us that the Venetians controlled many Greek islands and the Eastern Adriatic, now Croatia and Montenegro – a main interest being the white Istrian stone, a non-porous material essential for construction in Venice.

Salt and spices were also vital to the Venetians, Monica explains, which they depended upon from Middle Eastern traders. The Germans came to Venice to trade cloth and metal. The Jews were also important traders, which is why they were treated so well in Venice, and given the area that became known as the Ghetto. Venice welcomed all of these people and was tolerant of their cultures and religions because it was their trade which made the State rich.

Context Tour — Understanding Venice, a City Built on Trade and Tolerance – By Foot. Venice, Italy. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

We wander over to the Scuola Dalmata delli Santi Giorgio e Triffon with its recently restored ceiling and stunning series of 16th century paintings by Carpaccio. Monica talks us through each one, from St George slaying the dragon in Libya through to St Jerome taming the lions – all featuring exotic-looking characters in turbans and flowing gowns – to the last painting of St Augustine, a theologian and scholar who sits writing at his desk.

“Look at the shell used for shaving down parchment, the messy desk with books everywhere, just like any academics, and the music sheet in the corner… all of these are important,” Monica says, “They tell us St Augustine was a product of new Renaissance technology: for instance, the music sheet was produced from moveable type which had just been invented, and the tiny text was only possible because glasses had been invented in Murano. I love this painting as much for what it tells us about the time in which Carpaccio painted it as for the painting itself.”

Context Tour — Understanding Venice, a City Built on Trade and Tolerance – By Foot. Venice, Italy. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

We conclude our walk a short distance away at a plaque outside a Foundling Home (orphanage), where infants, both legitimate and illegitimate, were left, another example of a social institution set up by the State to maintain order. The plaque warns that parents who leave their children who can afford to raise them, will be held responsible.

“Whether it was rich or poor, East and West, Venice would always find a way to solve problem, to maintain social order, and to find a balance,” Monica says, “It’s another example of how Venice, since the Renaissance, has always been very forward-thinking, and very pragmatic.”

Tips to ‘reading’ Venice while walking the city

  • Carry a small dictionary/phrasebook with you to translate the names of bridges, streets and squares to get an insight into their background
  • If you see a plaque on a wall, look around or ask a local for a translation of the text for more insight (this is also one of Luca Zaggia’s hobbies)
  • When admiring a painting, look beyond the beauty of the thing to the details which might tell you as much about the period in which it was painted as that in which it is set.

Find out more about Context’s Venetian Renaissance walking seminars here.

Support our Cambodia Cookbook & Culinary History Book with a donation or monthly pledge on Patreon.

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About Lara Dunston

A travel and food writer who has experienced over 70 countries and written for The Guardian, Australian Gourmet Traveller, Feast, Delicious, National Geographic Traveller, Conde Nast Traveller, Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia, DestinAsian, TIME, CNN, The Independent, The Telegraph, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, AFAR, Wanderlust, International Traveller, Get Lost, Four Seasons Magazine, Fah Thai, Sawasdee, and more, as well as authored more than 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, DK, Footprint, Rough Guides, Fodors, Thomas Cook, and AA Guides.

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Lara and Terence are an Australian-born, Southeast Asia-based travel and food writers and photographers who have authored scores of guidebooks, produced countless travel and food stories, are currently developing cookbooks and guidebooks, and host culinary tours and writing and photography retreats in Southeast Asia.
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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

#christmasgiftideas #ediblegifts ##christmasfoodgifts #foodgifts #giftideas #homemadegifts #christmasfood #ediblegiftideas #hotsauce #chillisauce #sriracha #pickles #homemadepickles #recipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood 
#blackcat #blackcatsofinstagram #picoftheday 
#christmas #christmastree #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas #cambodia #siemreap
This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

#siemreap #cambodia #asia #travel #instatravel #traveldeeper #slowtravel #localtravel #experientialtravel #exploremore #neverstopexploring #goexplore #igtravel #angkorwat #angkor #temple #temples #angkorwithoutcrowds #unesco #unescoworldheritagesite #unescoworldheritage #archaeology #archaeologicalsite #traveladdict #beautifuldestinations #beautifulplaces #travelgram #wanderlust #picoftheday📷 #grantourismotravels.
Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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GRANTOURISMO TRAVELS AND ‘MAKING TRAVEL MORE MEANINGFUL AND MEMORABLE’ ARE ™ TO GRANTOURISMO MEDIA.