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Best Christmas Markets in Europe for Warming Glühwein and Kartoffelpuffers. From Budapest to Kraków, our Favourite Christmas Markets. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Best Christmas Markets in Europe for Warming Glühwein and Kartoffelpuffers

The best Christmas markets in Europe for sipping warming glühwein and munching on kartoffelpuffers (potato cakes), for shopping for handcrafted Christmas gifts and gawking at buildings festooned with garlands of fairy lights… here’s our guide to the best of the best Christmas markets in Europe.

It’s that time of year when it’s impossible to not get into the Christmas spirit, especially when you live in the northern hemisphere, as we have done since 1998. When we’re in Europe, one of our favourite things to do in December is to shop the Christmas markets. Before we settled in Southeast Asia, we used to head to Europe each winter. A white Christmas, a spot of snowboarding, fireplace time, and festive markets were our motivation.

As an Australian with a tradition of sunny summer Christmases, after we moved to the UAE in 1998 from where Europe was just a 7-hour flight away (rather than 24 hours!) I became a bit obsessed with the idea of a white Christmas. Snowy winters were such a novelty – as were festive Christmas markets. Switzerland, Germany and Italy were favourite winter destinations and were also home to some of the best Christmas markets in Europe. After we took to the road in 2006 to travel the world, we made an effort to spend as much time as we could in Europe in winter.

One of our most memorable European winters was spent in Belgium, where we wrote a guidebook on Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp and Ghent. Brussels, where we had sweeping views all over the snowy city from the cosy penthouse apartment we rented, was bliss. Our best winter in Europe for a white Christmas, however, was 2010 when we did our 12-month grand tour of the world. At the end of that year we spent our first full winter in Europe and got to go to Christmas markets in Budapest, Vienna, Zell am See, Krakow, and Zakopane.

In Budapest, we had a Christmas market right on your doorstep. Our apartment was just one block from the main Christmas market, which begins on Deák Ferenc Square and continues down the pedestrianised street to Vörösmarty Square, where most of the festive action takes place. As a result, we’ve now sipped mulled wine at Christmas markets in Zurich, Bern, Basel, Prague, Salzburg, Munich, Nuremberg, Berlin, Barcelona, and dozens of small towns across Spain, France, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy.

Here’s our guide to the best of the best Christmas markets in Europe.

The Best Christmas Markets in Europe

Krakow Christmas Markets

Krakow is home to one of the best Christmas markets in Europe and must have the most spectacular location of all. Slap-bang on The Rynek, the Old Town’s market square, it was looking especially enchanting when we first arrived, with everything dusted in snow. It’s a medium-sized market with stalls selling delightful handmade wooden toys, cosy woollen slippers and furry hats, and those traditional floral scarves that Polish women wear, among other fun things.

 

Krakow’s market wins the award for the stalls selling the most beautiful Christmas decorations. My favourite were the small Christmas trees with wreaths and angels crafted from natural materials like twigs, leaves, and dried fruit and flowers. And naturally the glühwein, sold from barrel-shaped stands it is easily the best mulled wine in Europe.

See the Krakow City website

Vienna Christmas Markets

Vienna boasts some 20 Christmas markets (I asked the woman at the tourist office to highlight each and every one on a map for me) and we must have sipped glühwein or punsch (the local preference) in half of them during our stay in the city. During December the whole of Vienna is festooned with spectacular garlands of glittering lights, especially on Kohlmarkt, Graben and Kärntner Strasse, and there are shiny baubles and sparkling fairy lights on Christmas trees in every store window.

Best Christmas Markets in Europe for Warming Glühwein and Kartoffelpuffers. From Budapest to Kraków, our Favourite Christmas Markets. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

We endeavoured to check out as many of those Christmas markets as we could. Our favourite of all, which is easily one of the best Christmas markets in Europe, is the largest, in front of the Rathaus or City Hall. There, hundreds of stalls sell delicious hot dogs and scrummy kartoffelpuffers (potato cakes), a mind-boggling range of Christmas decorations and gifts, from teddy bears and gingerbread men to beeswax candles and baubles for the tree, souvenir t-shirts and hippy clothes, it was all here! There was quite a bit of tacky nonsense between the quality stuff, which is the only reason I think Budapest might just be a slightly better market.

See the Vienna Tourism website

Budapest Christmas Markets

One of the best Christmas markets in Europe for us is the main market in Budapest. When we rented an apartment there, we could smell the glühwein even before we reached Deák Square. Once there, the first thing we’d do was buy a couple of mugs of the steaming hot wine. We’d always do the rounds of all the glühwein sellers, but our favourite – which was nice and spicy – was sold by the man splashing some into a cup for us.

Best Christmas Markets in Europe for Warming Glühwein and Kartoffelpuffers. From Budapest to Kraków, our Favourite Christmas Markets. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Budapest’s main Christmas market is compact compared to Vienna’s, however, we preferred the atmosphere of the market in Budapest – there was nearly always some kind of music or a band on the stage. Steam was always rising from the food stalls from which mouthwatering smells emanated. There was a huge variety of hearty traditional food. And the Christmas decorations, crafts and gifts for sale were some of the finest quality we’d seen, from colourful felt hats to handmade warm woollen sweaters and socks.

See the Budapest Tourism website

Zell Am See Christmas Markets

The Christmas market at Zell Am See, the Austrian lakeside town where we headed after Budapest, was tiny, with just a single stand selling piping hot glühwein, another selling sizzling sausages grilled on a smoky barbecue, and a dozen or so selling sparkly Christmas decorations and handcrafted gifts. But it had loads of Christmas charm.

Best Christmas Markets in Europe for Warming Glühwein and Kartoffelpuffers. From Budapest to Kraków, our Favourite Christmas Markets. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

The woman who sold the handmade woollen beanies, scarves and socks would knit them right there every evening! There was a wonderfully aromatic stall dedicated to everything and anything that can possibly be made from lavender and I’m sure it was all made from the cute old lady who ran it. And every evening the locals gathered to shop and drink and eat. As did we!

See the Zell am See-Kaprun Tourism website

UPDATED: December 2022

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About Lara Dunston

A travel and food writer who has experienced over 70 countries and written for The Guardian, Australian Gourmet Traveller, Feast, Delicious, National Geographic Traveller, Conde Nast Traveller, Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia, DestinAsian, TIME, CNN, The Independent, The Telegraph, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, AFAR, Wanderlust, International Traveller, Get Lost, Four Seasons Magazine, Fah Thai, Sawasdee, and more, as well as authored more than 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, DK, Footprint, Rough Guides, Fodors, Thomas Cook, and AA Guides.

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  1. Keith Kellett says

    December 9, 2012 at 11:20 pm

    If you’re ever up that way, I heartily recommend the one in Rostock!

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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

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This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

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Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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