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Holiday Rental Home, Ceret (Céret), France. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Our Home Away From Home in Ceret

Ceret, or Céret in French, is a petite Catalan village in the foothills of the French Pyrénées, not far from Perpignan, is the location of our latest home away from home for two weeks.

A quaint village of tiny squares with cafés and fountains, and narrow streets lined with lofty plane trees, Ceret is famous for its cherries and art history, the locals’ love of rugby, good hiking in the hills, and a fine Saturday market.

Apparently the first pick of cherries of the season are traditionally sent to the French President for a taste and Ceret produces cherry beer and cherry jam and has a lively cherry harvest festival, although unfortunately we won’t be here for that. We saw the pink and white cherry and almond blossoms in flower on our way in, and they looked spectacular.

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The village has a fascinating art history and a connection to some of France’s most celebrated painters, which is why, even though it’s not the most stunning of French villages, tourists wander the streets with guidebooks and cameras and linger in cafés scribbling postcards.

Picasso and Braque lived in Ceret for a while, and Matisse and Modigliani visited, and there’s an excellent Museum of Modern Art, with an impressive collection of art including works by Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, Miró, Gris, Dufy, and others, which we’ll be visiting the first chance we get.

Our latest HomeAway holiday rental is in a grand old house located on one of Ceret’s most charming streets, lined with colossal plane trees – apparently Saturday’s market takes place right outside our door and you know how much we love a good market.

The house has been divided into three apartments and we have quickly settled into the ground floor flat, which has its own garden with an olive tree and garden furniture and high stone walls, which the neighbourhood cats like to slink across.

There are two pretty bedrooms, a double that looks onto the attractive garden, and a twin with shutters that open onto the front street, and both come with modern bathrooms.

There’s a spacious open plan kitchen, dining and living area (and a small laundry hidden behind a curtain), and we’ve already cluttered up the smart contemporary black dining setting with our laptops, hard-drives, cameras, notebooks, and research materials. The floor to ceiling French doors let in loads of light making it a fantastic space to work.

The lovely owners, who we met at our Grantourismo launch party in London, have decorated the light-filled apartment beautifully, in neutral tones – lots of beige, cream and white – and have struck a balance between rustic-chic and contemporary-cool, and as you’d hope, art hangs on the walls.

Our kitchen in Ceret is as about as new as they come, with a decent stove, separate fridge and freezer, a good-size dishwasher that’s ideal for families, and loads of bench space for prepping, which pleases Terence – as does what’s in the cupboards. This is definitely the best kitted-out of all the places we’ve stayed in so far, with plenty of plates, cups, glasses, and cutlery, all the mod cons you can imagine: toaster, microwave, blender, etc.

The drawers are full of all those little things that Terence has been missing, like tongs, and things I can’t even identify. (It’s a cheese slicer apparently). There’s a cupboard full of herbs and spices, vinegar and olive oil, and when we arrived there was a bottle of wine, milk, coffee, smelly aromatic French cheese, and some fresh bread to get us started.

There are things in the kitchen you take for granted at home but rarely find in a property rental, like egg cups, a Moroccan tea pot, a wine rack, candles, and loads of placements and big ceramic salad bowls and one of those thingies where you pop the cake under the screen to keep the flies off – all of which make me want Terence to bake a quiche so I can decorate the table and serve lunch outside in the sunshine – which has been intermittent so far.

Another cupboard is home to board games like Trivial Pursuit and Travel Scrabble, and there are poker chips, decks of cards, chess, checkers, and even dominoes.

There’s also one of those drawers that I love that we all have at home (you know, the kind we always feel the need to sort through but never do) filled with light bulbs, power adaptors, batteries, matches, citronella tea-lights, and even a first aid kit – things that property rentals never seem to have, and yet we always end up needing.

Bookshelves burst with holiday novels, guidebooks, maps, French phrase books and dictionaries, and there’s an extensive CD and DVD collection, although strangely there’s a CD/cassette player, but no TV/DVD player, unless we just haven’t located it yet. But we don’t really mind, as we tend to use our laptops to watch movies anyway.

Our only complaints about our latest home: there are five gorgeous cats that come to visit us in the garden, but we’re not supposed to feed them.

We’d also love to be able to plug in our AirPort Express or have an iPod docking station to play our own music (but that’s what happens when we’re spoilt with so much other choice); and (somewhat related) while there’s a wide selection of music, from plenty of classical to Art Garfunkel, the only French music is Café de Paris.

Although Charles Trenet, Jean Sablon, Edith Piaf, and Maurice Chevalier rather charmingly remind us where we are each night – along with the Languedoc-Rousillon wine!

P.S. If you’re just visiting us at Grantourismo for the first time, you can have a snoop at all the other stunning preperties we’ve stayed at so far on our 2010 Grand Tour by clicking on ‘The Digs’ under Categories or clicking here for our ‘homes’ in Dubai, London, Marrakech, Essaouira, Jerez, and Barcelona.

Support our Cambodia Cookbook & Culinary History Book with a donation or monthly pledge on Patreon.

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About Lara Dunston

A travel and food writer who has experienced over 70 countries and written for The Guardian, Australian Gourmet Traveller, Feast, Delicious, National Geographic Traveller, Conde Nast Traveller, Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia, DestinAsian, TIME, CNN, The Independent, The Telegraph, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, AFAR, Wanderlust, International Traveller, Get Lost, Four Seasons Magazine, Fah Thai, Sawasdee, and more, as well as authored more than 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, DK, Footprint, Rough Guides, Fodors, Thomas Cook, and AA Guides.

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Heather Carreiro says

    April 4, 2010 at 3:21 am

    Looks like an interesting village to spend some time in. I’m sure you guys will have a great time exploring!

    It’s funny there’s a cassette player; I’m guessing you didn’t bring any of those with you.

  2. Lara Dunston says

    April 4, 2010 at 4:21 am

    Hi Heather

    Ceret has its charms – it may not be France’s most beautiful village but it’s picturesque. Although it didn’t take long to ‘explore’ – it’s *very* tiny – a good place to recuperate for Paris.

    And, no, you’re 100% right – no cassette tapes on us!

  3. Heather Carreiro says

    April 4, 2010 at 2:33 pm

    A friend of mine actually travelled with cassette tapes in Morocco and would coerce taxi drivers to play her music during long drives. I thought of this idea often while listening to endless repeats of Bollywood hits in Pakistani buses…

  4. Lara Dunston says

    April 5, 2010 at 1:58 am

    That’s too funny!

    Over the years, we’ve actually found ourselves asking the taxi drivers what *they’re* playing and then going to buy it. Although I remember the first time we went to Damascus, around 12 years ago, and asked the guy what he was playing and he gave us the tape! On a trip to Morocco a couple of years later, we went to a music shop in search of some of the recommendations in the back section of our Rough Guide and they were *all* on tape!

    Things have changed a lot in both countries now – and you can buy CDs and DVDs in souqs, although it’s still surprising how much local music is still sold on cassette.

  5. Jen Laceda says

    April 7, 2010 at 12:04 pm

    Ceret seems like a lovely market town. And since cherries are one of my favourite fruits, Ceret will definitely make it to my list of places to go when I’m in the area. By the way, your ‘home away from home’ is just gorgeous! It looks so light and airy…very French country with a modern twist. And those beautiful white linen…they’re just begging to be slept on!

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Lara and Terence are an Australian-born, Southeast Asia-based travel and food writers and photographers who have authored scores of guidebooks, produced countless travel and food stories, are currently developing cookbooks and guidebooks, and host culinary tours and writing and photography retreats in Southeast Asia.
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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

#christmasgiftideas #ediblegifts ##christmasfoodgifts #foodgifts #giftideas #homemadegifts #christmasfood #ediblegiftideas #hotsauce #chillisauce #sriracha #pickles #homemadepickles #recipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood 
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#christmas #christmastree #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas #cambodia #siemreap
This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

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Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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