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The website of globetrotting professional travel writing and photography team Lara Dunston and Terence Carter

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Our Home Away from Home in Marrakech. Dar Rocmarra, a riad in Marrakech, Morocco. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Our home away from home in Marrakech – Dar Rocmarra

Marrakech is endearingly chaotic and as exotic as every magazine article makes it out to be. From the cacophony of sounds, sights and smells on the Djemaa al Fna, the city’s main square which comes alive every evening with musicians, storytellers, snake-charmers, and stall-holders, to the labyrinthine medina and markets that hum with Moroccans going about their business on bicycle, motorcycle and mule. Amongst the chaos we eventually found our home in Marrakech.

It’s therefore to be expected, in keeping with the personality of the place, that things will not always go as smoothly as planned. And so it was that our first holiday rental accommodation that had been organized did not have the Internet access so vital to this project, and we wasted an afternoon trying to get it to work and an evening investigating other access options, before moving to another riad the following day.

Our Home Away from Home in Marrakech. Dar Rocmarra, a riad in Marrakech, Morocco. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Marrakech is a city of contrasts, as clichéd as that sounds, and so off every bustling lane is a tranquil alley, and behind many a ramshackle exterior is an elegant oasis of calm. Dar Rocmarra, our home in Marrakech is one such place.

The lovely, laidback riad (a traditional two- to three-storey Moroccan house that has a courtyard at its centre) is located in the thick of the bustle of Marrakech’s medina, in a skinny dog-legged passage off a pedestrianised lane, off a busy street near Bab Doukkala, Dar El Bacha palace, and Rue Dar El Bacha. The latter is lined with some of the medina’s most charming shops, including antique stores and the bookshop Librairie d’Art Dar El Bacha, and the surrounding neighbourhood boasts some of the Old City’s best restaurants and most charming riads.

Just outside the heavy wooden door to Dar Rocmarra, locals whizz by on motorcycles, kids muck around on their way home from school, and worshippers make their way to the mosque on the corner when the call-to-prayer sounds.

Inside our home in Marrakech, all we can hear is the fireplace crackling in the evenings, the tinkle of water from the fountain where pink rose petals float, the manager-cum-housekeeper-cum-chef Jamila pottering about in the kitchen, and the atmospheric sounds of what must be one of the most eclectic riad soundtracks around – everything from Natacha Atlas to Amy Winehouse.

Our Home Away from Home in Marrakech. Dar Rocmarra, a riad in Marrakech, Morocco. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Whitewashed – except for the dark grey concrete walls of the water feature, the dramatic bathroom in the Johara room, and the cosy nook where I’m typing this review – and with a pretty courtyard of potted palms and a healthy olive tree, Dar Rocmarra exudes a sense of calm.

English owners Rob and Julie, and Ian and Helen, took 18 months to renovate the property from scratch – and they have photos to prove it that Rob is proud to show off on the iPod that serves as a sound system. While they designed the whole riad together, each was responsible for putting their mark on the place by decorating a particular room. Remarkably – or simply because the couples have such impeccable taste – each of the individually themed rooms work wonderfully together within the overall style of the riad, which is chic and refined in a style that won’t go out of fashion.

The two-storey property is decorated with Oriental lanterns and Moroccan antiques and bric-a-brac, including a carved wooden door from the original building that has been turned into a dining table, and the look is clean, understated, and contemporary.

Our Home Away from Home in Marrakech. Dar Rocmarra, a riad in Marrakech, Morocco. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

The attention to detail is impressive. All rooms boast stainless-steel vessels with intricate cut-out patterns to hide plastic water bottles; dainty crystal-trimmed satin bags to hold hairdryers, candles bearing ‘hands of Fatima’ and henna patterns, and creamy locally made soaps. The compact ground floor Bijou room boasts pretty handmade curtains; the adjoining Berber room has rocks embedded in the walls as a decorative feature; the Sahara room above it had cracked mud-hut walls (cute idea!); Johara, the most glamorous room, which Julie admits is “chintzy in a nice way”, has crystal chandeliers and velvet chairs; while Douria, our suite, has a fireplace and a fabulous nook that’s ideal for curling up with a good book – or laptop as Terence has done today.

“Our suite”, I hear you say? Weren’t we meant to be trading hotel rooms for holiday homes this year? Well, like many riads in Marrakesh, Dar Rocmarra is available to rent as a whole house, including Jamila and two staff – or its rooms can be rented individually, when it becomes a maison d’hotes and operates like a cross between a B&B and boutique hotel.

Unlike a B&B the owner-managers don’t live on the premises, and unlike a hotel the atmosphere is intimate, relaxed and cosy, service is warm and personable, and the welcoming, can-do attitude of the staff makes you immediately feel ‘at home’. Jamila, for instance, is going to take Terry shopping and teach him how to cook tajine. I couldn’t imagine that happening at many hotels. But we’re going to save that experience for another post!

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About Lara Dunston

A travel and food writer who has experienced over 70 countries and written for The Guardian, Australian Gourmet Traveller, Feast, Delicious, National Geographic Traveller, Conde Nast Traveller, Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia, DestinAsian, TIME, CNN, The Independent, The Telegraph, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, AFAR, Wanderlust, International Traveller, Get Lost, Four Seasons Magazine, Fah Thai, Sawasdee, and more, as well as authored more than 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, DK, Footprint, Rough Guides, Fodors, Thomas Cook, and AA Guides.

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Comments

  1. Jen Laceda says

    February 19, 2010 at 8:00 am

    Sigh…what can I say? I LOVE Marrakech. I love it that I can surge my way through the cacophonous market, then come home to a peaceful retreat afterwards. When you’re inside one of these riads, you’d think you were miles away from the chaotic, dust-ridden streets of Marrakech. But one step out that door and you’re in the thick of it! Sigh…

  2. Maryam in Marrakech says

    February 18, 2010 at 10:06 pm

    So glad you are here!

  3. Abi from Inside the says

    February 19, 2010 at 3:40 am

    Sounds wonderful. Shame about the internet chase though – seems a common feature of travel these days – even in airports and swish city hotels! I look forward to hearing more…

  4. Terence Carter says

    February 19, 2010 at 9:27 am

    Abi, that’s just the was it goes sometimes. The art is knowing when to cut your losses and make other arrangements – something we often have to do on the road. And, yep there is plenty more to come, thanks for visiting!

    Jen, we know how much you love the place!

  5. Heatheronhertravels says

    February 21, 2010 at 6:06 am

    Marrakesh is one place on my wish list but I’m also facinated by going to Essaouria where I know you’ll be off to soon – I’m slightly worried that Marrakesh will disappoint by being too touristy and too many people hastling and like the idea of somewhere that is a bit more laid back.

  6. Terence Carter says

    February 21, 2010 at 6:31 am

    Hi Heather, we’ll be addressing the hassle/touristy issue this upcoming week. I believe a few days in Marrakech is a *must* for any travel who wants to see the world – despite the hassles and the increasing mass tourism – all the more reason to come now! We’ve spent a long time travelling the country over the years, and we still love Essaouria so much. We can’t wait!
    Cheers & thanks for your comments!

  7. Lisa Bergren says

    February 23, 2010 at 8:54 am

    *sigh* sounds like you found a lovely second option….

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Lara and Terence are an Australian-born, Southeast Asia-based travel and food writers and photographers who have authored scores of guidebooks, produced countless travel and food stories, are currently developing cookbooks and guidebooks, and host culinary tours and writing and photography retreats in Southeast Asia.
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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

#christmasgiftideas #ediblegifts ##christmasfoodgifts #foodgifts #giftideas #homemadegifts #christmasfood #ediblegiftideas #hotsauce #chillisauce #sriracha #pickles #homemadepickles #recipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood 
#blackcat #blackcatsofinstagram #picoftheday 
#christmas #christmastree #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas #cambodia #siemreap
This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

#siemreap #cambodia #asia #travel #instatravel #traveldeeper #slowtravel #localtravel #experientialtravel #exploremore #neverstopexploring #goexplore #igtravel #angkorwat #angkor #temple #temples #angkorwithoutcrowds #unesco #unescoworldheritagesite #unescoworldheritage #archaeology #archaeologicalsite #traveladdict #beautifuldestinations #beautifulplaces #travelgram #wanderlust #picoftheday📷 #grantourismotravels.
Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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