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Will Studd, the Cheese Guy and the Story of Australian Cheese. Will Studd, Australia's foremost cheese expert. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Will Studd, the Cheese Guy and the Story of Australian Cheese

When chatting with chefs around Australia for the feature stories we’ve been working on, one man’s name comes up repeatedly when talk turns to cheese – Will Studd. Or, Will Studd, “the cheese guy”.

Will Studd arrived in Australia in 1981 after establishing delicatessens in central London in the 1970s with the goal of concentrating on importing and distributing cheese. While selling cheese sounds like a fairly controversy-free way to earn a living, Will Studd did not have an easy time of it in Australia when he first arrived.

Will’s initial thoughts about Australian cheese were not positive. “The Australian cheese scene at that stage really wasn’t anything and the only surface ripened cheese I can remember… well, it didn’t really meet my taste,” he tells us as we chat at his home in Melbourne, which also houses his production facilities for his successful television series Cheese Slices.

It was a local Australian blue cheese that gave him hope. “I had this visit from some cheese makers who were making this blue (cheese) from Gippsland,” Will reveals. “I said, “this is really exciting”. I said they should name it after its region, so it became Gippsland Blue. And for a long, long time I pushed that and it’s still a really good cheese.”

Australia did start to produce some reasonable cheeses in the late 1980s and 1990s. “Throughout the ’80s and early ’90s there was this big revolution happening in Australian cheese which was on par with what was happening in the UK,” Will explains. “It’s not hard to look at the rest of the world and get ideas.”

“I was very, very involved in that early period in Australian cheese – I still am – and I was very passionate about developing an identity for Australian cheese throughout the ’90s. During the ’90s we had this big move toward bringing the states’ regulations to a national standard, which meant that places such as Adelaide could not make raw milk cheese – they (the authorities) banned the production and sale of raw milk cheese. They basically banned Parmesan! They didn’t realize they’d banned Parmesan so we formed an association, the Australian Specialist Cheesemakers’ Association, and worked for two years to try and get the law overturned.”

The authorities did end up making an exception for Parmesan, but they still banned the production of local raw milk cheeses. Will wanted a strong local cheese making scene with a distinctly Australian bent, and most significant cheeses – if not all – are based on raw milk. However, the big cheesemakers saw Will as someone who only wanted to import the cheeses he wanted and had no interest in Australian cheeses, which was clearly not true at all.

“They tried to vilify what I did because of my strong association with imported cheese,” Will explains. “A lot of the large dairies use co-operative milk and if you use co-operative milk – which is a foundation stone of Australian dairy – you would never want to make raw milk cheese.”

Despite terroir becoming increasingly important for wine, fruit and vegetables, as well as meat and dairy, Will believes the predominant Australian attitude toward raw milk cheese still discourages artisanal cheese production.

“Provenance now is even more important than it was in the ’90s, in the sense that as soon as you pasteurise milk you ‘denature’ it, you destroy the natural esters, the natural flavours in the milk. And then your only way of making cheese is to add a starter, and nine times out of ten that starter is an industrial starter made in Europe and brought over here frozen, so it means that milk from King Island, milk from Tasmania, milk from Victoria, and milk from New South Wales has essentially has lost its individual character,” Will explains.

“It may differ in structure and may have more or less fat, more or less protein, but essentially it becomes a science, and the art of moving with a changing quality of milk disappears,” Will says. “And the irony of that, of course, is that the whole bundle of what makes milk special and cheese special comes undone. For me, even today that is the ongoing challenge for Australian cheese.”

Will’s frustrations continued, not just with the local cheese production regulations, but with the importation laws regarding raw milk cheese. When a minor change in food regulations occurred in 2002, Will tested the law by attempting to import 80 kilos of Roquefort cheese after having it tested in France to ensure it met Australian standards. Unfortunately, the Imported Food Inspection Program (IFIP) refused to test the cheese and Will appealed to the Administrative Appeals Tribunal, only to have his appeal rejected and see the cheese buried in a rubbish tip.

An Australian Broadcasting Corporation (ABC) story on the case, including footage of the ‘burial’ with the cheese draped in the French flag and delivered to the burial site in a hearse, so embarrassed the Australian and French governments that Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) changed the regulation and made an exception to allow Roquefort to be imported – 11 years after the initial ban.

While these small wins against the system were important for the development of the Australian cheese scene, Will’s frustration about the production of cheese in Australia continues. Will insists that to make an authentic artisanal cheese, the link between the region, the animals, the farmer, and the cheesemaker is what makes the product unique and special.

Fortunately, in recent times, small steps have been taken to allow raw cheeses to once again be made and sold in Australia. These hard cheeses, such as cheddar and parmesan, are thought to pose far less ‘risk’ than soft cheeses such as camembert and brie.

These small strides, along with the support of culinary luminaries such as Tetsuya Wakuda, Peter Gilmore, Justin North, and Neil Perry, are helping Will make the issue of raw milk cheeses one that won’t go away.

While Australian cheeses in supermarkets are incredibly bland (despite what the big cheese companies claim), the new breed of producers such as Holy Goat are producing cheeses of which Australia can be proud – even if they admit that they could produce even better cheese if they were allowed to make cheese using unpasteurised milk.

For Will, the struggle continues: “For an artisan cheesemaker who wants to make cheese that really reflects its regional identity, that’s the challenge – how do you do it?”

Will Studd’s Top 5 Australian Cheeses

  1. Holy Goat, La Luna, Victoria
  2. Bruny Island Cheese Co., C2, Tasmania
  3. Woodside Cheese Wrights, Goat Curd, South Australia
  4. Tarago River Cheese Company, Gippsland Blue, Victoria
  5. Pyengana Dairy Company, Pyengana Clothbound Cheddar, Tasmania
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About Lara Dunston

A travel and food writer who has experienced over 70 countries and written for The Guardian, Australian Gourmet Traveller, Feast, Delicious, National Geographic Traveller, Conde Nast Traveller, Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia, DestinAsian, TIME, CNN, The Independent, The Telegraph, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, AFAR, Wanderlust, International Traveller, Get Lost, Four Seasons Magazine, Fah Thai, Sawasdee, and more, as well as authored more than 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, DK, Footprint, Rough Guides, Fodors, Thomas Cook, and AA Guides.

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Comments

  1. Terence Carter says

    May 29, 2012 at 9:47 pm

    So true, Lindsey. In France terrior is perhaps the defining factor in wine and cheese. And look to Italy, where Parmigiano-Reggiano is produced within certain geographic constraints. Australia is really missing out on taking advantage of some pristine milk to produce world-class cheese by blanding out production through pasteurisation, taking away the geographic specificity of the region of production. Having said that, the Aussie cheeses recommend by Will are pretty damn good by any standards.
    Cheers,
    T

  2. Lindsey says

    May 29, 2012 at 9:33 pm

    This is so fascinating, I had no idea cheese was such a loaded topic in Australia! Glad to know there’s someone assiduously dedicated to bringing quality cheese to the people :) lord knows in France it’s a revered art!

  3. Lara Dunston says

    June 8, 2012 at 12:55 pm

    Hi Angus – nice to see you here! Just discovered you via Emiko Davies’ twitter stream. Would love to get your top 5! Would you share it with us below? And where would you send visitors to Australia – esp. to the foodie capitals of Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Hobart – to try and buy Australian cheese?

  4. Angus Henderson says

    June 8, 2012 at 12:29 pm

    Though he is competition for who I’m employed by, he is a revolutionary. Its good to here he’s still fighting for the production of raw milk products, but I’d disagree with his top 5 ;) I mean, no Heidi Farm products in the top 5? Haha. Nice write up. Keep up the fight!

  5. Keith Kellett says

    January 26, 2015 at 2:19 pm

    ‘Blessed are the cheesemakers …’ (The Life of Brian)

    Good to see Aussie cheese isn’t all plastic-wrapped plastic! I shall look harder next time I’m there!

  6. Lara Dunston says

    January 26, 2015 at 10:39 pm

    Well, you’ll just have to follow Will’s advice next time you’re there :)

    There are some wonderful cheeses in Oz now and terrific cheese-making courses around the country. But, yes, a good way to go before Australia catches up to the UK. We’ll never forget the sublime cheeses we tried at Neil’s Yard Dairy when we were last in London. Yum!

  7. Keith Kellett says

    January 30, 2015 at 4:32 pm

    Come to think of it, they let us taste some pretty good cheese on the Murray cruise in ’06. And, there was some at Dagum, Qld. where the good folk of the Chamber of Trade arranged a tasting for passengers on the ‘Mary Valley Rattler’.

  8. Lara Dunston says

    January 30, 2015 at 6:30 pm

    There you go! And I bet it wasn’t wrapped in plastic.

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Lara and Terence are an Australian-born, Southeast Asia-based travel and food writers and photographers who have authored scores of guidebooks, produced countless travel and food stories, are currently developing cookbooks and guidebooks, and host culinary tours and writing and photography retreats in Southeast Asia.
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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

#christmasgiftideas #ediblegifts ##christmasfoodgifts #foodgifts #giftideas #homemadegifts #christmasfood #ediblegiftideas #hotsauce #chillisauce #sriracha #pickles #homemadepickles #recipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood 
#blackcat #blackcatsofinstagram #picoftheday 
#christmas #christmastree #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas #cambodia #siemreap
This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

#siemreap #cambodia #asia #travel #instatravel #traveldeeper #slowtravel #localtravel #experientialtravel #exploremore #neverstopexploring #goexplore #igtravel #angkorwat #angkor #temple #temples #angkorwithoutcrowds #unesco #unescoworldheritagesite #unescoworldheritage #archaeology #archaeologicalsite #traveladdict #beautifuldestinations #beautifulplaces #travelgram #wanderlust #picoftheday📷 #grantourismotravels.
Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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