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Tasting Whisky in Edinburgh. The Scotch Whisky Experience, Edinburgh, Scotland. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Tasting Whisky in Edinburgh

We have a confession: we are not whisky drinkers. But as malt whisky is Scotland’s national drink, in keeping with our mission of immersing ourselves in the culture of the places we visit, tasting whisky in Edinburgh was essential. As we don’t do things by halves, we put three whisky tasting experiences to the test.

Tasting Whisky in Edinburgh

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society

There is such a bewildering array of single malt and blended whiskies that it’s hard to know where to start. We get our first lesson from Donald Reid, the eating and drinking editor of The List, at Edinburgh‘s The Scotch Malt Whisky Society, a private members club.

If you don’t know, or don’t meet, a member of The Society during your stay in Edinburgh – although trying to meet one to get in to this place is a good excuse to engage with locals – book a table for dinner in The Dining Room, which is open to the public.

Tasting Whisky in Edinburgh. The Scotch Whisky Experience, Edinburgh, Scotland. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

The Society buys whisky by the casks, which are then bottled and numbered using their own elegant ‘no-name’ labels. Unless you’re a whisky aficionado you probably won’t know exactly what you’re drinking, although the detailed tongue-in-cheek tasting notes certainly provide some clues for connoisseurs.

With Donald’s assistance, we manage to select some interesting whiskies to try. I opt for an aromatic style (which is also how I like my wines), and while I love the perfume nose, the throat-burning sensation that lingers long after my first swallow seems to kill my ability to taste anything. At all. Terence doesn’t mind his drop, although once again, we both prefer its smoky aromas to the fiery flavours.

As intriguing as the whiskies are, they aren’t really to our taste, which is disheartening. We don’t let it get us down for long, however…

Tasting Whisky in Edinburgh – The Scotch Whisky Experience

The Scotch Whisky Experience is one of Edinburgh’s most popular tourist attractions – and while that normally means that it’s a bit off-putting for us, it’s actually a brilliant experience. When we join the group, our guide Gary tells us that there is a perfect Scotch whisky out there for each and every one. It’s just a matter of finding the right one for you, and, he reassures us, he’s here to help us do just that.

Following a concise and fascinating introduction to how Scotch whisky is made, from the growing and harvesting of the barley through to the mashing, fermentation, distillation, and maturation, and a very brief look at the history of whisky production, Gary takes our group to a dimly lit room for a sensory journey aimed at teaching us how to find ‘our’ whisky.

Tasting Whisky in Edinburgh. The Scotch Whisky Experience, Edinburgh, Scotland. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

After watching a short film on Scotland’s different whisky regions, we’re armed with cardboard flavour profile discs, divided into four coloured segments, representing the regions of Lowland, Highland, Speyside, and Islay. We peel back each section, one at a time, and scratch and sniff the surface, to identify the whisky type that appeals to us. Yes, that’s right – a scratch and sniff card is the sophisticated tool we’re using to find our perfect whiskies!

If we find ourselves liking the green quarter, which exudes the scent of grapefruits, eucalyptus and lemon biscuits, then the Lowland’s light, soft, citrus-style whiskies will probably appeal to us. If the yellow section’s sweet, floral perfumes charm our noses – it gives off an aroma of lavender, roses, and honey – then a whisky from the Highlands is what we should be looking for. If it’s the blue you like, with its tropical fruit perfume (bananas, pears, pineapples) then a whisky from Speyside is probably your style. Terence was attracted to the red Islay quarter, which, with its smoky aromas, reminded us both of sitting around a bonfire on childhood camping trips.

Once we decide on our preferred aroma, Gary instructs us to place our glass on the appropriate coloured segment and he goes around the room pouring a dram of whisky that aligns with matched flavour profile. I opt for a Speyside, and am given an Aberlour to try, while Terence is poured a Caol Ila from Islay. They rotate the brands of whisky that suit each profile on an ongoing basis.

Tasting Whisky in Edinburgh. The Scotch Whisky Experience, Edinburgh, Scotland. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Before we put the methodology to the test, however, we’re given a lesson in how to taste whisky. First we judge the colour, then the body (like wine, we’re looking for fat oily ‘lines’), then the nose, the taste, and finally the finish. I’m fine with the first three stages – I could inhale my whisky forever – but I’m not good with the tasting.

Gary advises we leave our whisky on the tongue for just 2-3 seconds, then swallow. After the first taste, he recommends adding a little water to open the whisky up. I’m still finding that it’s burning my throat, uncomfortable. And you’ll remember that this is a woman raised on her grandfather’s firewater vodka.

Drinks in hand, we head into a dramatically-lit room that houses the world’s largest whisky collection, with countless beautiful bottles of all shapes and sizes, including some rarities and oddities. The designer in Terence falls in love with the typography on the bottles.

Tasting Whisky in Edinburgh. The Scotch Whisky Experience, Edinburgh, Scotland. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

We are so energised and enthused about the experience that at the end of the tour we decide to upgrade our ticket to enjoy a full whisky flight of four drams to see if we can’t find our perfect whiskies. We linger over a 12 year old Glenkinchie (Lowland), a 12 year old Old Pulteney (Highland), a 10 year old Glenfarclas (Speyside), and a 12 year old Caol Ila.

While our Scotch-sampling noses and taste buds can now easily identify the different styles of whisky, we have to admit that neither of us is finding the right Scotch for us. We don’t let this deter us though…

Tasting Whisky in Edinburgh – Whiski Bar and Restaurant

After our Burns Supper at The Tass, we take a stroll up the hill to the Whiski Bar and Restaurant to sample some more of Scotland’s finest. As a local band plays to an enthusiastic crowd, here we opt for Whisky Flight #4, which includes the most popular whiskies: a 10 year old Talisker, a 16 year old Lagavulin, a 10 year old Laphroiag, and a 10 year old Ardbeg. We’ve already had a few whiskies and beers at The Tass. Swallowing is definitely coming easier to us now…

While I like the sweetness and spiciness of the Talisker, I’m not a fan of the peat flavours. I also enjoy the vanilla and sweet malt of the Laphroiag, but again, the peat finish puts me off. Terence on the other hand likes the smokiness and toffee flavours of the Lagavulin but finds the Ardberg a bit too medicinal.

Our perfect whiskies may have remained elusive, but you can’t say we didn’t give it our best shot. Perhaps subconsciously we’re just looking for another reason to return to Scotland. Maybe that perfect whisky is biding its time waiting for us to discover it, we just have to spend a wee bit more time in Scotland to find it.

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society
www.smws.co.uk

The Scotch Whisky Experience
www.scotchwhiskyexperience.uk

Whiski Bar and Restaurant
www.whiskibar.co.uk

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About Lara Dunston

A travel and food writer who has experienced over 70 countries and written for The Guardian, Australian Gourmet Traveller, Feast, Delicious, National Geographic Traveller, Conde Nast Traveller, Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia, DestinAsian, TIME, CNN, The Independent, The Telegraph, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, AFAR, Wanderlust, International Traveller, Get Lost, Four Seasons Magazine, Fah Thai, Sawasdee, and more, as well as authored more than 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, DK, Footprint, Rough Guides, Fodors, Thomas Cook, and AA Guides.

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Comments

  1. Akila says

    February 13, 2011 at 12:54 pm

    This sounds like a brilliant idea for non-whiskey drinkers (like me) and whiskey drinkers (my husband). We’ll have to try this. And, it sounds to me like you’re perfect whiskey is waiting for your next trip in the country.

  2. Keith says

    February 13, 2011 at 5:34 pm

    Loved this post – so sad to hear whisky isn’t to your liking, but as the saying goes…more for me. ;) I, too, am a huge Islay fan. I love the peaty essence of whiskies. I bought a bottle of Talisker 18 year after a visit to the Talisker distillery. Their product is phenomenal.

  3. Keith says

    February 14, 2011 at 8:05 am

    Apart from beer and wine, usually, the only alcoholic beverage I’ll take is whisky, and, since I only drink it rarely, I can afford the better brands … I believe there’s Glenfarclas and Laphroaig in my cupboard right now; I believe there’s a little Macallan left, too.

    Two things to remember:

    There’s no such thing as bad Scotch, but some is better than others
    The only think you put in Scotch is water or more Scotch

  4. Lara Dunston says

    March 22, 2011 at 6:42 am

    Do get along and do some tastings on your next trip. We haven’t given up yet, I assure you! ;)

  5. Lara Dunston says

    March 22, 2011 at 6:46 am

    Don’t hog it all, we’re going to persist ;)

    Seriously, though, as hard as we try to appreciate everything, I think we all just have different tastes that have developed for whatever reasons. I can’t stomach creamy liqueurs at all. But I love white spirits – vodkas, gins, rums, ahhh… Cuban rums… – and can certainly discern differences between different brands – some don’t like them. Maybe we’ll have to face up to the fact that whiskies are not for us, but I think we might give them another try on a future trip… :)

  6. Lara Dunston says

    March 22, 2011 at 6:48 am

    Yes, we were told that water improves it, opens it up more.

    We’ll have to drop around to your place for a wee dram when we’re next in the UK, I think ;)

  7. Leslie says

    November 3, 2011 at 1:40 pm

    Not a huge whiskey fan myself, but it seems like there is an art to it!

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Lara and Terence are an Australian-born, Southeast Asia-based travel and food writers and photographers who have authored scores of guidebooks, produced countless travel and food stories, are currently developing cookbooks and guidebooks, and host culinary tours and writing and photography retreats in Southeast Asia.
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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

#christmasgiftideas #ediblegifts ##christmasfoodgifts #foodgifts #giftideas #homemadegifts #christmasfood #ediblegiftideas #hotsauce #chillisauce #sriracha #pickles #homemadepickles #recipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood 
#blackcat #blackcatsofinstagram #picoftheday 
#christmas #christmastree #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas #cambodia #siemreap
This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

#siemreap #cambodia #asia #travel #instatravel #traveldeeper #slowtravel #localtravel #experientialtravel #exploremore #neverstopexploring #goexplore #igtravel #angkorwat #angkor #temple #temples #angkorwithoutcrowds #unesco #unescoworldheritagesite #unescoworldheritage #archaeology #archaeologicalsite #traveladdict #beautifuldestinations #beautifulplaces #travelgram #wanderlust #picoftheday📷 #grantourismotravels.
Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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