Our Northeastern Thailand itinerary will take you off the beaten track on a two-week road trip through Thailand’s Isaan region. Khmer Empire temples, bucolic countryside, blisteringly hot Thai food, nomadic monks, and Thai cowboys: the Isaan is like no other region in Thailand. If you’re keen to escape the White Lotus crowds converging on Koh Samui, Phuket and Bangkok, Northeast Thailand is where to go.
Very few of Thailand’s staggering 35 million annual visitors get to Isaan, the northeastern Thailand region that is about as off-the-beaten-track as you’ll get in Thailand. Long distances, little English spoken, long distances, limited accommodation options, and long distances, deter all but the most adventurous travellers – which is a great shame. Although it’s great for travellers who do venture to ‘the northeast’ – or ‘Isaan’ in Thai and Khmer.
The enormous northeastern region – Isaan covers a third of Thailand, with one third of Thailand’s population – is a favourite of Thai travellers eager to escape the more popular destinations that teem with farang (foreigners). It’s not hard to understand why locals head north if you’ve been to Bangkok, Chiang Mai or Phuket in peak tourist season. The vast majority of the 35 million visitors are all visiting the same places. This year, it’s places featured in HBO’s The White Lotus series.
We’ve stayed at ‘The White Lotus resort’ that stars in the current series, The Four Seasons Koh Samui. One of our best guidebook updating gigs saw us test out dozens of luxury five-star hotels in Thailand during what was my 40th birthday month, including a handful of luxe lodgings on the Southern Thailand island of Koh Samui. So I can confirm, yes, it’s absolutely heavenly, and I can’t blame set-jetters for booking a trip after seeing it for the first time in the series.
For those of you whose travels aren’t inspired by places depicted on the big or small screen (the subject of a PhD I began a whopping 25 years ago), but, in fact, are turned off, then Northeastern Thailand is as about off the beaten track that you can get. The scarcity of travellers not only makes up for the lack of tourism infrastructure and hotels geared to Thai holidaymakers, it’s a big part of Isaan’s appeal – along with the incredibly sweet people of the region.
Isaan locals remind us of Cambodians, and there’s a reason for that. The remote region was once part of the Khmer Empire, one of Southeast Asia’s greatest civilisations, and is dotted with little-visited temple ruins. It’s also home to addictively delicious spicy food and some of Thailand’s most diverse landscapes, from lush rice paddies and rolling green hills to forested mountains and pancake-flat plains.
Then there are Isaan’s traditional arts and crafts, from silk-weaving to mask-making, the region’s many lively festivals and colourful markets, and the idiosyncratic country-folk-pop music that blares from every shop, bar, car, and bus in Isaan. Not to mention the cowboy-hat wearing farmers who listen to the stuff!
We first travelled to northeastern Thailand way back in 2011 when we did an Isaan road trip for magazine stories. We adore the region (it reminds us of Cambodia!) and would love to see more people travelling there. So if you’re eager to get to Thailand, but want to avoid The White Lotus crowds, then make a beeline for Isaan.
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So here’s our Northeastern Thailand itinerary with advice on how to spend two weeks in Isaan, how to get there and away, how to get around, what to do and see, where to stay and eat, and how to reduce the duration of the trip if you’re travelling long haul and don’t have 14 days or even 12 days.
Northeastern Thailand Itinerary for a Two Week Isaan Road Trip
Here’s our guide to how to spend two weeks exploring Northeastern Thailand’s Isaan region, including an Isaan road trip itinerary, all tried and tested. But first some practical tips on when to go to Northeastern Thailand, how to get to Northeastern Thailand, and how to get around Northeastern Thailand.
When to Go to Northeastern Thailand
While we normally encourage you to visit Thailand (and neighbouring Cambodia, our adopted home) during the monsoonal green season, we discourage travel to Northeastern Thailand during the wettest months of the rainy season, which are late August, September and early October.
Unfortunately, low-lying areas of Northeastern Thailand are subject to severe flooding, especially towns on the Mekong River and its tributaries. The final destination of this two-week itinerary, Nong Khai, has experienced severe flooding over the years, especially in early September when, at times, much of the town has been under water.
Wait until November to visit Northeastern Thailand when the rains have stopped, things are drying up, and the weather is starting to cool down, yet it’s still green. Even better, head here during Thailand’s ‘winter’ in December and January, when it’s lovely and ‘cool’ (by Southeast Asian standards).
This is a busy period for Thailand’s more popular destinations, such as Bangkok, Phuket and Chiang Mai, when I’d normally advise you against travelling during high season, but not so in the Northeast due to the dearth of tourists.
February is still dry, however, the weather is starting to warm up, while March and April are the hottest, driest months and should be avoided. (It’s ‘summer’ for the locals.) May and June are still hot and sticky, but early monsoonal rains cool things down a tad and the countryside greens up and comes to life with the soundtrack of frogs and geckos.
How to Get to Northeastern Thailand
If you’re going to self-drive our 2-week Northeastern Thailand itinerary, which works best as a road trip, then fly from Bangkok to Ubon Ratchatani and book a rental car for pick up at Ubon Ratchatani Airport when you arrive.
Nok Air has cheap frequent flights from Bangkok to Ubon Ratchatani (55 minutes) and once you’re there, Hertz, Sixt and Budget car rentals have representatives at Ubon Ratchatani Airport.
If you’re not driving, you’ll need to take buses, mini-buses and shared taxis between towns (we like to use 12Go to buy bus and train tickets) and you may need to hire a car and driver to get to some spots, such as the Khmer temples, but it’s do-able.
Getting Around Northeastern Thailand
This two-week Northeastern Thailand itinerary is best done behind the wheel of your own rental car, as I said above. Although if you don’t want to hire a car or your budget prohibits you from doing so, you could use a combination of transport, including buses, mini-buses and shared taxis, and, when you need to, hire a car and driver.
We’ve driven around Thailand updating guidebooks and can attest that driving is easy in Thailand’s northeastern Isaan or, rather, easier than it is in many more congested parts of the country. Roads in Thailand’s northeast are generally good (although can get damaged after floods), signage is decent, and driving is far safer than in neighbouring Cambodia.
You won’t have internet access everywhere when you’re on the road, so don’t rely on accessing Google Maps for navigating the region. A copy of the Thailand Road Atlas is essential and a Thailand guidebook such as Lonely Planet Thailand will come in super-handy.
If you’re not self-driving and are relying on a combination of transport, such as buses, mini-buses and shared taxis, this Northeastern Thailand itinerary might take a little longer than two weeks. Once you decide how you’re going to get around the Isaan, decide how to get there, as there are logical options.
Where to Start and End this Itinerary – From Ubon Ratchatani to Nong Khai and Udon Thani
As Northeastern Thailand’s Isaan region is so huge and distances long compared to other parts of Thailand, you won’t want to begin your road trip itinerary in Bangkok, or even Chiang Mai. Here’s where to stay and end your Isaan road trip itinerary depending on how long you have.
2 Week Northeastern Thailand itinerary
Our two-week Northeastern Thailand itinerary begins in Ubon Ratchatani, which you can easily reach on a cheap, short, 55-minute flight from Bangkok. Low-cost airline Nok Air has some of the cheapest flights.
Our itinerary ends in Nong Khai, from where you can drive to Udon Thani Airport (58kms away) for another cheap, short, 65-minute flight back to Bangkok.
If you take our advice and do a two-week road trip itinerary through the Isaan region, this departure point and end point makes the most sense. You can pick up a rental car at Ubon Ratchatani at the start of the road trip and drop your hire car at Udon Thai Airport at the end.
We recommending booking a rental car online, but note that Hertz, Sixt and Budget all have local reps at both airports. A heads-up: you may need to pay a one-way fee.
Continuing onto Laos
Alternatively, at the end of your two-week road trip, after dropping your rental car off, you could could cross the Mekong River from Nong Khai in Thailand via the Thai Laos Friendship Bridge to the Laos capital, Vientiane, and explore this lovely country.
Don’t miss gorgeous Luang Prabang, one of Southeast Asia’s unmissable UNESCO World Heritage listed sites, and one of the loveliest riverside cities in Southeast Asia. While you can now travel by high speed train from Vientiane to Luang Prabang, there are few better ways to get there than by a Mekong River cruise on a slow boat from Northern Thailand north of Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang.
We spent a few sultry days cruising down the Mekong on the Luang Say boat and absolutely loved it. If you are heading to Luang Prabang, do check out our picks of Luang Prabang’s best boutique hotels, our guide to some of the best things to do in Luang Prabang, including observing the early morning alms-giving ritual (from a respectful distance).
You can easily spend a few days discovering the countless mural- and mosaic-clad temples, hiking up Phousi Hill for the gleaming Buddhas and gob-smacking views over Luang Prabang, the Mekong River, and the mountains opposite, and doing one of Chef Joy Ngeuamboupha’s cooking classes, easily the best Lao cooking class in Luang Prabang, which kick off with an excellent market tour.
Back to Bangkok on a Budget
If you’re on a tight budget and need to make a beeline to Bangkok, the train from Nong Khai via Khon Kaen takes 10-12 hours to reach Bangkok and there are overnight trains with sleepers. There are also buses from Udon Thani (9+ hours) and a one-hour mini-bus from Nong Khai will get you to Udon Thani.
12 Day Northeastern Thailand itinerary
If you don’t have a full two weeks – maybe you’re flying to Thailand from Australia or New Zealand or the Middle East and you need a day each at the start and end of the trip for travel time and shopping? – you could reduce this Northeastern Thailand itinerary by two days.
Skip Nong Khai and take Nok Air’s fly-ride (bus and plane) option from Chiang Khan to Bangkok (which includes a bus ride to Loie then flight to Bangkok) or drive to Udon Thani (3 hours 20 minutes away) to grab a flight.
10 Day Northeastern Thailand itinerary
Need to save another two days? Maybe you’re flying long haul to Thailand and need a day each at the start and end of the trip for flying time and another day or two for getting over jet-lag and souvenir shopping?
Then skip Ubon Ratchatani and start in Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat), from where you can do a day trip to the Khmer temples. You’ll be moving at a faster pace with only 10 days in Northeastern Thailand, whereas for us the Isaan region is really a slow travel destination, but it’s still do-able.
Northeastern Thailand Itinerary – Where to Go, What to See and Where to Stay
Here’s our guide to where to go, what to see, and where to stay during our two-week Northeastern Thailand road trip itinerary.
Ubon Ratchatani – 2 Nights
Begin your two-week Northeastern Thailand itinerary in Ubon Ratchathani where you can spend a day or two exploring the city’s slow-moving surrounds.
Start with an excursion to sleepy Mekong River village, Khong Chiam, the easternmost point of the province, where you can hire a longtail boat to cruise along the river to see the prehistoric paintings of animals at Pha Taem Historical Park.
Kaeng Tana on the Moon River boasts refreshing waterfalls while the village of Ban Pa Ao is well regarded for its stunning bronze ware.
In Ubon Ratchatani city itself, the fascinating National Museum and historic Wat Thung Sri Muang, which bears influences of Thai, Burmese and Laos Buddhist architecture, is worth a visit.
If you’re doing the 5 hour/350km drive to Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat), we recommend leaving Ubon Ratchatani at the crack of dawn on your final morning (or even better, in the darkness to arrive for sunrise) to visit Prasat Phanom Rung and Prasat Muang Tam, 255kms away or a 3-hour 45-minute drive.
Take a picnic breakfast. If you prefer to hire a driver to take you there or do a temple tour, this is typically done from Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat), which is why you’ll find more info on the Khmer temples below.
Where to Stay in Ubon Ratchatani
De Lit has more character than most Ubon hotels, located in a whitewashed Moroccan-Med inspired building with rustic blue doors, polished concrete floors, mismatched retro furniture, a small swimming pool, and rooms starting at US$27.
Young Thai travellers like 3-star Pen Ta Hug, which has cool murals above the bed in all rooms (US$22) but is otherwise a modern, functional hotel.
The Bliss, another modern comfortable 4-star, feels sterile despite the splashes of colour, but is a good affordable choice; rooms also start at US$27.
Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) – 3 Nights
Next stop on our two-week Northeastern Thailand road trip itinerary is Nakhon Ratchasima (official name) or Khorat (as it’s also called by locals). Boasting a moated walled town, bustling night markets, and street food stalls selling Isaan’s famously blazing-hot Thai food on seemingly every corner, busy Nakhon Ratchasima/Khorat is the gateway to the Northeastern Thailand and the best base for visiting Isaan’s attractions.
Spend your first full day exploring the moated old town and grazing the night markets in the evening. But keep in mind if you didn’t stop en route from Ubon Ratchatani to visit the Khmer Empire temple ruins of Prasat Phanom Rung and Prasat Muang Tam you’ll want to do this on the next day and will have to rise at 4am for the two-hour drive southeast if you want to arrive for sunrise.
Built between the 10th and 13th centuries Prasat Phanom Rung is considered to be Thailand’s finest example of Angkor era architecture. The breathtaking temple sanctuary is set on the summit of an extinct volcano amidst lush gardens of frangipani trees. Terence has some great tips here for photographing Prasat Phanom Rung.
After, visit Prasat Muang Tam, 8km away in a tranquil farming village on the plains below. Surrounded by pretty lotus ponds it’s easily as enchanting.
On the same afternoon you could drive 60km northeast of Khorat to Prasat Hin Phimai, slap bang in the centre of the town of Phimai, or you could do it on the morning you leave Nakhon Ratchasima/Khorat. Dedicated to Mahayana Buddhism, as attested by the exquisite carvings, the 11th century sanctuary marked the end of the ancient Khmer highway from Angkor.
Where to Stay in Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat)
The best hotel in Nakhon Ratchasima is the grand Kantary Hotel Korat with plush, spacious rooms (starting at US$67), some with kitchenettes, and a swimming pool, gym, two restaurants, and a bar.
The Aisana Hotel is more contemporary, with a bit more style, and has light-filled rooms starting at US$47.
Urban Bamboo is in a great location for grazing on street food, with colourful themed rooms starting at US$26.
The 339 Hotel and Resort combines the traditional and modern, with polished concrete, timber floorboards, and plenty of greenery, with spacious rooms starting at US$20 and pleasant bungalows at US$24.
Khon Kaen – 2 Nights
Khon Kaen is the next stop on our two-week Northeastern Thailand road trip itinerary. A buzzy yet laidback university city, Khon Kaen boasts Isaan’s best street food scene and markets, including a busy night bazaar, and street food stalls on every corner.
While you could easily spend a few days slurping tongue-scorching curries, there are a handful of sights to explore. Stroll round the lake, Bueng Kaen Nakhon, feed the pigeons and carp, and hope you’re here for a weekend to hit the hipster market.
Pagodas are sprinkled around the lake, but the most impressive is Wat Nongwang Muang Kao, a glittering nine-tiered pagoda, guarded by bold-coloured nagas, and affable young novice Buddhist monks up for a chat.
Spend a couple of days exploring the province by car. Isaan’s silk is almost as celebrated as its food so visit the weaving village of Chonnabot, where the textiles are regarded as Thailand’s finest, kept busy year-round with Royal Palace orders.
Sala Mai Thai is a centre dedicated to the conservation of Chonnabot’s famous mudmee technique. While you’ll see women weaving on antique wooden looms beneath most houses, one of the busiest workshops is Boonmee Thai Silk.
At Phuwiang National Park, home to the oldest fossil of a tyrannosaur dinosaur, aged some 120 million years, you can visit a number of archaeological digs and a museum.
Where to Stay in Khon Kaen
The 5-star AVANI Khon Kaen Hotel and Convention Centre is very elegant with a gorgeous green swimming pool and comfortable rooms starting at US$52.
The Pullman has two swimming pools, ten restaurants and bars, although its plush rooms (from US$57) are rather old-fashioned in style.
More thought has gone into the design of the Terminal Hotel, a contemporary train-themed hotel with rooms starting at US$30 a night.
Dan Sai – 3 Nights
From Khon Kaen the roads meander through the lovely Loei province, renowned for its flower orchards, to the tiny town of Dan Sai, set in an idyllic valley among gently undulating hills.
As you’re now at the start of the second week of our 2-week Northeastern Thailand itinerary, we recommend taking it easy in beautiful Dan Sai and taking some time to relax.
Dan Sai is famous for its boisterous three-day rainmaking festival called Phi Ta Kon, where locals in colourful masks and raggedy patchwork costumes parade through the streets, fire rockets in the air, and pray at the temple for rain.
When not in the rice fields, artisans will spend time painstakingly painting masks on the floor of their workshops. The mask makers are usually happy to have visitors stop by and watch, chat, and take photos.
In the grounds of Wat Phon Chai, masks and costumes are on display in a small but fascinating folk museum. Also visit the whitewashed Phra That Si Songrak stupa on wooded hills overlooking the Muan River.
At eco-resort, PhuNaCome, you could easily spend a couple of days doing activities such as cooking classes, rice harvesting, basket weaving, and mask making.
There are several national parks in the are that are worth a visit for their well-marked walking hiking trails and abundant birdlife, such as Phu Reua National Park. The turn-off is at Chateau de Loei Vineyard, where you can taste a few wines and brandies.
Where to Stay in Dan Sai
After so many mediocre hotels this far into your Northeastern Thailand itinerary, Dan Sai’s accommodation will be very much welcomed.
Set on a farm, eco-friendly PhuNaCome Resort has spacious rooms with polished floorboards, big balconies, and bucolic views starting at around US$76 a night.
Phu Pha Nam Resort is more rustic in style, with a good swimming pool and a wide range of rooms (starting at US$52), some with magnificent mountain views, and access to a lake, orchards, and forest walking paths.
Chiang Khan – 2 Nights
If you haven’t yet noticed barefooted monks and novices in mandarin coloured robes, carrying alms bowls and sleeping bags, marching in single file along the highways and byways so far, you’ve probably had your eye on the maps too much.
You should easily spot them in Chiang Khan, the next stop on our two-week Northeastern Thailand road trip itinerary. Chiang Khan is a very charming riverside town crammed with traditional teak shuttered houses, where their morning alms collection is much photographed.
Increasingly popular with Thai tourists, Chiang Khan boasts chic shops selling hill tribe textiles, cute cafes selling cupcakes and macarons, and some of the best Lao-influenced Thai food in this part of the region.
The best reason to visit this Mekong River town, however, is to do very little at all – other than a cruise upstream toward the majestic mountains of Khao Laem and Khao Ngu, stopping to climb hilltops to take in the picturesque vistas, swim from sandy beaches, and try your hand at fishing.
As you’re nearing the end of your Northeastern Thailand itinerary, you’re probably ready to do very little at all and Chiang Khan and surrounds is a good place for it.
Where to Stay in Chiang Khan
A favourite destination of young Thais, Chiang Khan has accommodation ranging from cosy bed and breakfasts to quirky lodgings, such as container rooms. Norn Nab Dao Rimkhong in Chiang Khan has basic rooms with bicycle murals (starting at US$46 a night), some with Mekong River views (be specific when you book).
If you’re self-driving, the polished concrete and timber Chiang Klong Riverside Resort, 9kms from Chiang Khan, has large rooms with big decks with breathtaking river views, staring at US$52 (make it clear when you book that you want unobstructed river views).
Mekong Villas, overlooking the Mekong, 25kms out of Chiang Khan, is the pick of the bunch, and perhaps the pick of this Northeastern Thailand itinerary, with a swimming pool and beautiful rooms, cottages and traditional wooden houses (starting from US$105), set in lush gardens.
Nong Khai – 2 Nights
Nong Khai is the last stop on our two-week Northeastern Thailand road trip itinerary. Like Chiang Khan, Nong Khai’s appeal also lies in its riverside location, laidback vibe, and opportunities to get on the water.
On the Laos border, accessible via the Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge, Nong Khai also boasts a few fascinating sights that are worth your time.
The most popular attractions are the surreal sculpture garden Sala Kaeo Kou; Wat Phra That Bang Phuan, a modern pagoda hiding a 2,000-year old Indian chedi; and the strange eroded sandstone formations of Ban Phu.
Our Northeastern Thailand itinerary ends here. See our advice above for getting away from the Isaan. If you’re heading south to Udon Thani and the airport, take a detour en route to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ban Chiang.
Ban Chiang is an excavated bronze age settlement, where you can see the remarkable collection of excavated clay pots, bones and charcoal in the museum, as well as taking in some of the prettiest scenery in the Isaan region.
Where to Stay in Nong Khai
The 4-star Amanta Hotel is the fanciest in town, with sprawling lawns and spacious modern rooms (from US$40), some with balconies and river views (you’ll need to request these).
Considerably more basic and homey, the 1-star Rim Riverside Guesthouse, has functional rooms, starting at US$31 for a river view and terrace.
First Published 20 September 2018; Last Updated 23 February 2026
Do let us know if you do our two-week Northeastern Thailand itinerary or you simply travel to the Isaan region. We’d love to get your feedback.
