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Abdul’s Roti Shop on Thalang Road, Phuket Old Town, Thailand. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo.

Phuket Old Town Roti Shops Should Be Your First Eating Stop On This Thai Island

These Phuket Old Town roti shops should be your first eating stop whenever you get to the Thai Island of Phuket. There can be few more warming foods than a spicy curry and few more comforting things to mop it up with than a roti, a flaky flatbread of Indian origin that’s now ubiquitous in Southeast Asia.

As life returned to normal here in Siem Reap, one of the first things to return to the empty streets of the former tourist zone that was the Old Market quarter was street food – street food now firmly focused on local needs. Gone are the carts from the Pub Street area selling deep-fried tarantulas, beetles and crickets for tourists to pretend-eat for their social media snaps. Locals who enjoy snacking on insects always knew the best place to buy their bugs was inside Old Market itself.

Now that the colonial-era quarter’s footpaths are free of tourists and touts spruiking two dollar massages, fish spas and elephant pants, food vendors have room to wheel in carts, lay down mats, set up stalls, and spread out plastic stools in their place to sell everything from banana leaf-wrapped snacks and skewered meats to bowls of noodles, pots of stews and curries, and trays of sweets.

One tourist street food favourite that has returned, however, is the roti cart, one of the last signs of Siem Reap’s previous life as a popular backpacking destination. Yes, the ‘banana pancake’ cart is back again and the things are absolutely everywhere (dotted along the riverside and Sivutha Boulevard as well), but without the huddle of backpackers waiting their turn for sliced bananas folded within a flaky roti drizzled in sweet condensed milk.

Instead, as they have always done – just not in the tourist quarter; usually outside local markets – it is Cambodians who are queuing each evening for the piping hot roti wrapped around pieces of banana, drowning in condensed milk and sprinkled with sugar, or even with, the tourist favourite, melted warm Nutella.

I’ve not yet succumbed to the temptation, although I’m sure I will soon enough. But what I’d prefer to see in Siem Reap are stalls selling roti with curry, just as they do in the Phuket Old Town roti shops. Of course, what I’d love even more is to be able to travel to the Thai island of Phuket and when I do my first stop will be the Phuket Town’s roti shops.

Phuket Old Town Roti Shops Should Be Your First Eating Stop On This Thai Island

Four months after the tourist industry in Siem Reap shut down in March, most of the restaurants and bars on Pub Street, and the eating and drinking spots and shops that lined surrounding lanes and alleys remain closed. Only those that appeal to Cambodians and, to a lesser extent, the considerably reduced population of expats who stayed on, have reopened.

The pandemic has decimated Cambodia’s tourism industry, along with neighbouring Thailand’s, and destinations such as Siem Reap and Phuket are strategising and rebranding for when borders open, flights resume, and foreign tourists return. While the future of tourism remains uncertain, one thing that is clear is that governments are not keen on young backpackers returning until there’s a vaccine.

The tourism ministers of both Cambodia and Thailand, and other countries in the region, have indicated that future marketing efforts will centre on moneyed tourists who stay longer and spend more, who are happy to social distance and have “holidays with minimal risks” – rather than backpackers who spend their nights staggering through streets on bar crawls.

While that shift in focus, government quarantining, testing, travel insurance requirements, and associated costs, all appear to mark the end of low budget travel and ‘the banana pancake trail’ – the well-trodden backpacker route through Southeast Asian cities, towns and islands such as Bangkok, Phuket, Chiang Mai, Luang Prabang, Siem Reap, and so on – one thing not going anywhere is the banana pancake or roti guay in Thai, and the savoury roti with curries that the Phuket Old Town roti shops do so well.

I’m not sure why we hadn’t stumbled across the Phuket Old Town roti shops on our very first trips to the Thai island many years ago when we were updating guidebooks. But it wasn’t until we spent a month on Phuket in 2014 for a feature story on Phuket cuisine for Australia’s Delicious magazine, that we got to watch the art that is authentic roti making and realised that roti is one of Phuket’s must-try dishes, up there with Raya’s crab curry (gaeng poo) and Mee Ton Poh’s hokkein mee.

Note the inclusion of ‘authentic’ there, for this is where I should say that the roti here in Siem Reap and on much of the banana pancake trail is a sort of fusion roti, a cross between a French crepe and the ‘proper’ roti made by the gentlemen in the Phuket Old Town roti shops. And that’s okay, because, as culinary history shows us, that’s what happens when food travels. It changes.

All Southeast Asian cuisines are fusion cuisines, after all – like all cuisines on the planet except those of the most isolated indigenous tribes that have had limited contact with outsiders – which is why accusations of culinary appropriation are so absurd. Almost everything came from somewhere else. Authenticity is slippery, especially as cuisines age and evolve.

The ‘tofu amok’ on a Siem Reap restaurant menu that is a bewildering tourist dish for the Cambodian grandmother for whom only a fully steamed fish amok can be authentic, might roll in her grave in ten years when not only is tofu amok the norm, but you can go to fast food amok shops and mix and match your ingredients and flavours from a menu, just as you might pizza toppings and crusts at Dominoes.

“Phuket food is fusion food,” chef Pitak Srichan told us on that research trip during one of the many Phuket cuisine cooking classes we did. “Thai food was very simple. Then curry powder came from India, stir-fry from China, the Portuguese brought the chillies and the coriander, which came from Mexico. Mussaman Curry was voted #1 dish in Thailand, but it’s from Persia!”

There was no such thing as ‘Thai food’ before the Indians and Chinese arrived, but Chef Pitak was correct when he said Phuket food was fusion food. It was bound to be considering the island’s long history. The Malays and Mons arrived in 5,000 BC – called Mon Selang, ‘boat people’ or ‘sea gypsies’ – then Indian mariners around 2,000 BC. Like much of mainland Southeast Asia, Phuket had a Hindu Period, from around 500BC to 700AD and was part of the Khmer Funan kingdom. Persian, Arab, Javanese, Tamil, and North Indian Muslims settled in the area in the 12th century.

But the wonderful roti that’s artfully made at two of Phuket Town’s oldest Muslim eateries, Abdul and Aroon, arrived just last century, not from Northern India, but Southern India, particularly Tamil Nadu, where it’s called parotta. Chennai, of course, is the capital, which is where we get ‘roti chenai’ or ‘roti canai’ (which is pronounced as ‘chanai’), the name given to roti in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia.

Abdul and Aroon are said to be Phuket Town’s oldest Muslim eateries, still ran by the original Indian Muslim families who established the shops over sixty years ago in simple shophouse eateries on Thalang Road, not far from the corner of Phuket Road. When I dream of eating in Phuket again, this is where I dream of going, perhaps for the fascinating history of how this flatbread travelled from as much as the delectable roti itself.

Try Abdul’s first, where you can usually find Abdul himself out front artfully stretching and throwing his dough before pulling it into shape. Take a seat and order his wonderfully flaky roti and a few of his wife’s hearty mutton, chicken and beef curries to dip it into – don’t stress, they’re small bowls – then go and watch the master at work.

When you’re done, go do the same at Aroon next door, where you should also order cha-chuk, a frothy combination of pulled tea and coffee that comes in a tall glass. If your appetite isn’t as large as mine and you can’t fit in any more curries, just order the dessert roti drowned in sweet condensed milk.

That’s what I’m dreaming of doing when we can all start travelling safely again. In the meantime I’m mulling over whether to attempt the roti guay recipe in David Thompson’s Thai Street Food. Well, I’m casually leaving the book open on that page on the coffee table as a hint for Terence to make it…

Have you been to the Phuket Old Town roti shops and had the wonderful roti? We’d love to hear your memories. When you do plan a Phuket trip, please see our recommended Phuket hotels and apartments, our weekend in Phuket itinerary, our Phuket street food guide, and consider this Phuket Old Town 15-taster food tour for a comprehensive introduction to Phuket food and its history.

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About Lara Dunston

A travel and food writer who has experienced over 70 countries and written for The Guardian, Australian Gourmet Traveller, Feast, Delicious, National Geographic Traveller, Conde Nast Traveller, Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia, DestinAsian, TIME, CNN, The Independent, The Telegraph, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, AFAR, Wanderlust, International Traveller, Get Lost, Four Seasons Magazine, Fah Thai, Sawasdee, and more, as well as authored more than 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, DK, Footprint, Rough Guides, Fodors, Thomas Cook, and AA Guides.

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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

#christmasgiftideas #ediblegifts ##christmasfoodgifts #foodgifts #giftideas #homemadegifts #christmasfood #ediblegiftideas #hotsauce #chillisauce #sriracha #pickles #homemadepickles #recipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood 
#blackcat #blackcatsofinstagram #picoftheday 
#christmas #christmastree #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas #cambodia #siemreap
This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

#siemreap #cambodia #asia #travel #instatravel #traveldeeper #slowtravel #localtravel #experientialtravel #exploremore #neverstopexploring #goexplore #igtravel #angkorwat #angkor #temple #temples #angkorwithoutcrowds #unesco #unescoworldheritagesite #unescoworldheritage #archaeology #archaeologicalsite #traveladdict #beautifuldestinations #beautifulplaces #travelgram #wanderlust #picoftheday📷 #grantourismotravels.
Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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