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Owen O’Leary, Local’s Guide to Edinburgh. Edinburgh, Scotland. Copyright © 2023 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Local Knowledge: Owen from Edinburgh

We’ve resisted using mainstream guidebooks on our grand tour this year, choosing instead to rely on local people for advice. However, wherever possible we’ve sought out local guidebooks written by residents of the places we’ve visited, like Owen from Edinburgh.

In Venice, we used the illustrated My Local Guide to Venice, and in New York City we used the tiny but comprehensive Not For Tourists guide, and in both cities we met the publishers and editors of those books.

When Jessie from Wandering Educators suggested we check out the wonderful Local’s Guide to Edinburgh and connect with its publisher/editor and co-founder of Word of Mouth Travels, Owen O’Leary, we set up a coffee meeting right away.

The Local’s Guide to Edinburgh is exactly the kind of guidebook we love and takes the same approach as books we’ve been developing in recent years – local people sharing their local tips and their unique perspectives on their hometowns. We asked Owen to explain how it came about.

“I’m initially from Cork, but I’ve lived in Edinburgh for ten years, while my co-founder/publisher Claudia is from Lisbon,” Owen explains. “As outsiders or new people in a place you end up exploring more than a local does. Claudia and I were like magpies – everything was shiny! We think that fresh perspective and enthusiasm for the city was important in developing the book.”

“When you go on a holidays and you have a local pal, he’s a short-cut to experiencing that place,” Owen tells us. “We went to New York for the marathon and we had a hook-up there and it was like having a pal in your pocket. Essentially, we wanted to create a book that was something like that.”

Q. What do you most love about your work?

A. Getting to talk to people I don’t know. I recently went to Glasgow to check out places for a new book we’re doing and I loved talking to people along the way, chatting to locals to get all those nuggets about places. My work is a good excuse to talk to people, it’s a reason to talk to people.

Q. Why should people come to Edinburgh?

A. If you heard about Edinburgh and tried to imagine it, I don’t think you could imagine it. You have to come and experience it for yourself. It’s an explorer’s city and it benefits from a good wander. The whole city is accessible by foot, and there are so many nooks and crannies to discover. The time you spend in between sights can be the best time you’ll have.

Q. 3 words to describe Edinburgh?

A. Jeckle and Hyde. It’s a city of contrasts and it totally fascinates me.

Q. And the people of Edinburgh?

A. Slow burn. It takes a while to get to know the locals. It’s one of those places where everyone seems to be from somewhere else, and it’s easy to meet people, but while the locals are initially warm and welcoming, it takes some time to get ‘in’. But once you are, you’re set.

Q. Your top recommendations for visitors?

A. Go to Hideaway Garden on Sandeman Close off the Royal Mile to escape the city – you turn a corner and you discover this unexpected place, a beautiful round walled garden, and it’s very peaceful. I love to go there and eat a sandwich.
Visit Artisan Roast on Broughton Street for the best coffee in the city – they grind the beans there and the café is like a warehouse with old coffee cases for furniture.
For a drink, go to a bar called The Pond – it’s a bit random, on the edge of the city in a dodgy part of town. The décor is a bit higgledy-piggledy with old furniture and fish tanks, weird stuff always seems to happen there, and you can meet some really interesting people there.

Q. Best souvenir from Edinburgh?

A. It has to be tablet. Not shortbread. Not fudge. Not toffee. But tablet. To the uninitiated it looks like a lump of solid sugar. To the untrained palate it tastes like a lump of solid sugar. But to those who fear no tooth decay and embrace the good side of all that is bad for you, tablet is the best medicine! The best place to buy it from is Valvona and Crolla on the top floor of Jenners. There’s a selection of some really nice tablet there. Enjoy it best with a cup of coffee and a strong stomach.*

Q. Must-do eating experiences?

A. Hog rolls at Edinburgh Farmer’s Market on Saturday below the castle – you’ve got to get up early out of bed to get them, as they can go fast some days.
The Dogs – I like this restaurant because it strikes a good balance between casual and formal; they do well-priced Scottish fare but not as you know it, and they do wine in carafes; it’s accessible, but it’s a bit different.
The Witchery – this is the place to go for a romantic dinner; the interior is what you’d like the exterior of Edinburgh castle to be like.

Q. An essential thing to know before coming here?

A. You need to be prepared to scratch below the surface and get off the beaten track to really discover Edinburgh.

Q. Most important phrase to learn?

A. ‘Coorie in’ – which means to ‘cosy up’, as in come in close and let’s cuddle up! You say it to a loved one. Sometimes in Edinburgh – especially in winter – you need to cosy up!

Q. Any other advice?

A. Be prepared to walk. Public transport is good, but it doesn’t always get you to where you want to go. It’s far better to walk in Edinburgh.

  • Terence and I think a copy of the The Local’s Guide to Edinburgh also makes a terrific souvenir: www.localsguidetoedinburgh.com
Support our Cambodia Cookbook & Culinary History Book with a donation or monthly pledge on Patreon.

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About Lara Dunston

A travel and food writer who has experienced over 70 countries and written for The Guardian, Australian Gourmet Traveller, Feast, Delicious, National Geographic Traveller, Conde Nast Traveller, Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia, DestinAsian, TIME, CNN, The Independent, The Telegraph, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, AFAR, Wanderlust, International Traveller, Get Lost, Four Seasons Magazine, Fah Thai, Sawasdee, and more, as well as authored more than 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, DK, Footprint, Rough Guides, Fodors, Thomas Cook, and AA Guides.

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Comments

  1. wandering educators says

    January 31, 2011 at 10:52 am

    LOVE this – i have this thing about edinburgh – love it, but also needed this guide when we went (ages ago, so now it is time to come back)….thanks for the great, great interview!

  2. jeannie says

    February 1, 2011 at 10:00 pm

    Thank you for this! This is great information for my plans to visit Edinburgh in October – that is if all goes well from now to then! And I will make sure to get The Local’s Guide to Edinburgh! :)

  3. Sandrine R. says

    February 2, 2011 at 10:54 am

    That’s great and makes me want to go there, since it’s the country of Kevin’s ancesters!
    Now, I’m waiting for the recipe from Edinburgh!

  4. Keith says

    February 3, 2011 at 6:38 am

    Tablet?

    Is that anything like Kendal Mint Cake? (Which, I believe is sugar, mint flavour and not much else)

    Liked the Jekyll and Hyde reference … RLS based his character on Deacon Brodie, an Edinburgh native; there’s a pub called the Deacon Brodie commemorating him.

    Nooks and crannies? You mean, wynds and ginnels! :D

  5. Lara Dunston says

    February 7, 2011 at 12:00 pm

    Thank *you* for connecting us and recommending the guide! I was so glad to have found it. It is *exactly* the approach – the local insight and insider’s perspective – that we love in a guidebook. Owen is such a lovely guy too. It was a fun coffee morning!

  6. Lara Dunston says

    February 7, 2011 at 12:02 pm

    You *must* get it. There is a good book store on Princes Street (overlooking Edinburgh Castle) where we found it – I think it’s Waterstone’s. I can connect you with Owen too and some other brilliant Edinburgh bloggers like Kash and Jools who you may know from Twitter, who I’m sure would love to meet.

  7. Lara Dunston says

    February 7, 2011 at 12:04 pm

    Hola amiga! You *must* go. We are very keen to return, but next time we’re going to go in summer and hire a car and drive all over the country. Recipes from Edinburgh coming in the next few days! :)

  8. Lara Dunston says

    February 7, 2011 at 1:07 pm

    ‘Tablet’ seems to be what the Scottish call fudge.

    Maybe he didn’t think we – or our readers – would understand ‘wynds and ginnels’ but Owen should have educated us, shouldn’t he? I’ll have to talk to him about that :)

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Lara and Terence are an Australian-born, Southeast Asia-based travel and food writers and photographers who have authored scores of guidebooks, produced countless travel and food stories, are currently developing cookbooks and guidebooks, and host culinary tours and writing and photography retreats in Southeast Asia.
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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

#christmasgiftideas #ediblegifts ##christmasfoodgifts #foodgifts #giftideas #homemadegifts #christmasfood #ediblegiftideas #hotsauce #chillisauce #sriracha #pickles #homemadepickles #recipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood 
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This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

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Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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