When you think of Barcelona, after Gaudi, Picasso, the Ramblas, and cava, you probably think of chocolate – or xocolata as it is called in Catalan. It is so beloved by Barcelona’s locals that they even have a museum dedicated to chocolate, the Museo de La Xocolata, and Barcelona’s most beloved beverage after cava is hot melted chocolate or drinking chocolate. We decided to sample the best.
Most people have a vague idea that it was the Spanish returning from their ‘expeditions’ to the New World who brought cacao to Europe. In fact, it was Hernando Cortez who brought the brown gold back with him from Mexico in 1519 and started the first cacao plantation, presenting the first chocolate to the King of Spain in 1528 apparently.
It was in Barcelona where the first chocolate was made by machine, but, somewhat ironically, Barcelona now produces some of the finest handmade artisanal chocolate in the world, renowned for daring use of flavours, from wasabi to red peppercorn.
Xocoa is my favourite producer of wild bean-to-bar chocolate; see my Barcelona take-homes post on where to buy Barcelona’s best artisanal chocolate for details. In this post we’re looking at the tradition of drinking melted chocolate or xocolata in Barcelona, the Catalan take on hot chocolate.
Anything Better than Chocolate? Melted Chocolate or Xocolata in Barcelona
Traditionally, Barcelona’s locals have drank hot chocolate for breakfast and generally with churros. Although we’ve noticed far fewer locals dipping their churros into the thick hot dark drinking chocolate this trip than we have in the past.
These days, most locals seem to prefer to sip a café con leche or cortado in the morning, even in the chilly winter. Habits are changing I guess.
For most travellers to Barcelona, having a chocolate con churros or hot chocolate with churros is one of those must-do experiences – something to tick off the list – and while we’ve tried it before, we thought we’d better partake again for Grantourismo. Any excuse!
Every Barcelona café in the tourist centre has a ‘CHOCOLATE CON CHURROS’ sign on their window, but you shouldn’t try Barcelona’s famous hot drinking chocolate at just any café. At some you’ll get little more than a Swiss-style hot chocolate and that’s not what it is.
Some of the cafés that Barcelona locals recommended to us to try their hot drinking chocolate included Gelateria Xocolateria (also an ice-creamery), Granja Dulcinea (a café-bar in the Barri Gotic dating to 1930, once frequented by Dali), Fargas (a chocolate shop-cum-café which opened in 1937) and Cacao Sampaka (also a creative artisanal chocolate maker).
We decided to try Granja Viader in the Raval, which opened in 1870, and claims to be Barcelona’s oldest café. Because it was here where the family claim Joan Viader invented the famous chocolate drink Cacaolat in 1931, and the first mass-produced bottled milk beverage.
Tucked down a narrow alley, Granja Viader is low-lit, atmospheric, and has loads of charm. However, the framed clippings on the walls from newspapers and magazines attesting to its history and authenticity and the famous people who’d frequented the café, along with the tables crammed with tourists thumbing through guidebooks and fingering maps, almost put us off.
Against our better judgement we went in. We were glad we did. But while Barcelona’s hot drinking chocolate was incredibly delicious – thick, sweet, rich, and very dark – and every tourist was having one, the few tables of locals there were drinking coffee: Vienna coffee, café con leche, and café cortado…
Granja Viader
Xucla 4, Raval
Barcelona
We took our daughter to granjarias around Barcelona, including Viader – she basically OD’d on milk and chocolate after a week in Marrakech without any milk or calcium (she doesn’t like yoghurt).
OMG. i think that this is heaven. lucky you!!
Ah, this brings back wonderful memories. Thank you.
Speaking of chocolate, my wife and I (though we were not married then) walked past a shop on a narrow side street of the Gothic Quarter, and its window display of beautifully lit and arranged chocolates–or, really, things like banana slices, strawberries, candies, and cookies, all dipped in chocolate–pulled us in like a tractor beam. The treats were delicious, and we watched the same thing happen to at least a dozen other people walking past while we were in there. They’d stroll by, see the display, and come in.
Does this ring a bell for you?
I noticed the same thing in 2004 in Madrid. When I went out for breakfast, the locals were ordering cafe con leche and I didn’t actually see a local eating churros con chocolate. I’d still try it again though!
Hi. I’ve come by way of Prêt à Voyager and I’m so glad I did. I usually spend my days reading through design-related blogs, but I enjoy travel soooo much that you’re blog, I’m sure, will be a great ‘escape’ from the usual.
What a life to lead, traveling for a living… envy to the max! :) Good luck on your new endeavor and I look forward to visiting frequently to read about your travels and local finds.
Oh, and that deliciously rich and thick ‘chocolate con churros’ is to die for. I remember it well from a past trip to Barcelona
~ Lizelly
Hola Jen & Jessie – thanks for the comments! Really appreciate you both dropping by!
Hi Eric – I’ve seen a couple of shops that fit your description & we may just have it in our post coming up on Barcelona’s old shopfronts. Take a look a bit later.
Heather – yeah, in Jerez the locals were definitely eating churros – it seemed to be a real local ritual, however, not with chocolate! Funny isn’t it?
Hi Lizelly – welcome! Pret A Voyager is one of my favorite blogs so I’m glad you found us through Anne’s blog. Hope to see you again!
Funny how the stereotype isn’t always what you see isn’t it? I definitely noticed a lot more caffeine addicts than chocolate addicts when I was in Barcelona!
Yeah, agree. I think it’s to do with the time of the day too – locals only tend to partake in the chocolate in the morning, and sip coffee the rest of the day. Thanks for dropping by!