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A Guide to the Hanoi Art Scene – Art Galleries, Museums and Arty Cafes. Artist Trinh Lien at Nguyen Art Gallery, Hanoi, Vietnam. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

A Guide to the Hanoi Art Scene – Art Galleries, Museums and Arty Cafes

Most travellers visit Hanoi for the fantastic food. That’s why we went. After motorbikes, visitors to Vietnam’s capital find themselves dodging street food stalls and the footpaths are littered with locals perched on tiny stools tucking into something. Yet the Hanoi art scene is doing well to compete for attention with the city’s food scene. Here’s how to experience it.

In just one weekend when we were in the city last year there were exhibition openings at three different art galleries, where Hanoi’s creative crowd sipped cocktails and Vietnamese wine as they took in the art on the walls. On that weekend, there were also art-themed talks at arty bar-cum-café Tadioto and art space Manzi opened with a bang. Hanoi’s art scene is happening.

A Guide to the Hanoi Art Scene

Art in Vietnam has a long history dating to the 3rd millennia BC when stone tools were intricately decorated. Coinciding with the birth of the capital Thang Long (today’s Hanoi) and a boom in Imperial and Buddhist architecture, the 11th to the 14th centuries were notable for their artistic works including beautiful sculptures and paintings created for pagodas.

After a period in which the Vietnamese occupied their time fighting foreign invaders, the 15th to 18th centuries produced skilled artisans who created wooden carvings, ornate statuary, lacquer art, glazed pottery and ceramics, and paintings on paper.

However, it was the 19th to 20th centuries that marked a major transformation after French colonisers introduced European painting and Vietnamese artists began to work in oils as well as wood cuts, silk and lacquer to produce landscapes, portraits, and scenes from everyday life.

Hanoi’s superb Vietnam Fine Arts Museum, in a handsome former girl’s school dating to 1937, provides a fantastic introduction to Vietnam’s art history, from the earliest periods through to modern 20th century movements when Vietnamese art exploded with artists working in every style and medium available: realism, impressionism, expressionism, surrealism, and abstract art; drawings, oils, woodcuts, and lacquer.

Also on display are pieces from the most progressive period, the 1990s, when a group of contemporary artists labelled the ‘gang of five’ — Dang Xuan Hoa, Ha Tri Hieu, Tran Luan, Hong Viet Dung, and Pham Quang Vinh – grabbed the international art world’s attention. I didn’t visit the museum until the end of our three-month stay and I was regretting I hadn’t gone earlier.

For a firsthand perspective on the Hanoi art scene and the city’s art history from 1990, when Russian art lover Natasha Kraevskaia and her late husband artist Vu Dan Tan opened Hanoi’s first private gallery, drop into Salon Natasha.

Most days you’ll find the door open to the pink house at 30 Hang Bong Street in the Old Quarter, its walls decorated with the artist’s work, and the inimitable Natasha at her desk writing essays on Vietnamese art for international publications – and ready for a chat.

Spaces such as Tadioto and Manzi, which opened just over a year ago, also operate as café-bars and hold art talks, as well as film screenings, live music, and performances, and are fantastic places to meet artists and art lovers.

For a more organised introduction to the Hanoi art scene, with a focus on the contemporary art scene, book an art experience through Backyard Travel. We did our tour with Do Tuong Linh – described as Hanoi’s art ‘It girl’ by artist Bill Nguyen and one of three self-proclaimed ‘art activists’ (along with Giang Dang and Tram Vu) who opened Manzi.

During a day out with Linh, we visit the home of art patron and collector Nguyen Manh Duc known as Nha San Duc or the Stilted House, a site of art happenings shut down by authorities for a particularly radical performance.

We met his daughter Nguyen Phuong Linh, an emerging artist and curator, hanging a show at the Japan Foundation, and we visited the studio-home of influential artist Truong Tan, where he and artist Duoong Zoi showed us their work.

Some of the best places to get a taste of the Hanoi art scene and see contemporary Vietnamese art exhibitions are foreign cultural institutes like the Japan Foundation, French L’Espace and the German Goethe Institut (also home to experimental film centre Doc-Lab), and locally-owned galleries like Nguyen Art Gallery near the Museum, and Mai Gallery and Apricot Gallery on Hang Bong Street.

The night we went to Nguyen Art Gallery’s Colours of Nature exhibition opening, the whole of Hanoi seemed to have crammed into the gallery. Art lovers were posing for photos with artists Dang Hiep, Duy Hoa, Trinh Lien, Duy Tung, and Le Thuy as if they were a K-Pop boy band.

It was a sociable crowd, a who’s who of the Hanoi art scene. We met lots of local artists, art writers, academics, and art-loving tourists at the exhibition. And not once did the talk turn to food.

Where to Experience the Hanoi Art Scene

Hanoi’s Vietnam Fine Arts Museum
66 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, Ba Dinh
Open daily 8.30am-5pm

Nguyen Art Gallery
31 Van Mieu Street, Dong Da

Manzi
14 Phan Huy Ich, Truc Bach
++84 4 3716 3397

Backyard Travel Art Tour
Soak up the Hanoi art scene on a tour with a local art specialist to museums, galleries and artist ateliers

Hanoi Grapevine
Best source of information on the Hanoi art scene, art exhibitions and gallery openings

Pictured above: Artist Trinh Lien at Nguyen Art Gallery

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About Lara Dunston

A travel and food writer who has experienced over 70 countries and written for The Guardian, Australian Gourmet Traveller, Feast, Delicious, National Geographic Traveller, Conde Nast Traveller, Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia, DestinAsian, TIME, CNN, The Independent, The Telegraph, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, AFAR, Wanderlust, International Traveller, Get Lost, Four Seasons Magazine, Fah Thai, Sawasdee, and more, as well as authored more than 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, DK, Footprint, Rough Guides, Fodors, Thomas Cook, and AA Guides.

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Carmen says

    February 19, 2014 at 10:39 pm

    You’re right – I think of food when I think of Hanoi. But thanks to this post I’ll think of art now too. I’ll have to check it out when we’re in Hanoi next year :-)

  2. James says

    February 28, 2014 at 11:00 pm

    When I make it back to Southeast Asia after my Central American adventure, Vietnam is on the list to re-visit … this will be high on my agenda here!

  3. Lara Dunston says

    March 4, 2014 at 2:38 pm

    You must! The thing is that artists in Hanoi, and Vietnam more generally, are so down to earth too and so open about sharing their work, and the galleries are so accessible.

  4. Lara Dunston says

    March 4, 2014 at 2:39 pm

    Vietnam is wonderful! Missing it so much and can’t wait to get back. The art scene in HCMC is fantastic too – we’ll have a story on that soon also.

  5. Katherine says

    March 27, 2014 at 3:21 pm

    Hi – I’m looking to contact artist minh hiep nguyen as I would like to see more of his work – do you know how I could contact him. I know he was born in 1940 and graduated from the superior school of fine art in 1960 any contact information would be helpful – thanks

  6. Lara Dunston says

    April 4, 2014 at 6:22 pm

    Hi – I suggest you contact Natasha as well as the galleries we mention in the story. There are links to them above. Best of luck!

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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

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This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

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Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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