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Grantourismo Travels

The website of globetrotting professional travel writing and photography team Lara Dunston and Terence Carter

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Pho Ga, (chicken noodle soup), Hanoi, Vietnam. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved. Welcome to the New Grantourismo and a New Year of Travel and Food.

Welcome to the New Grantourismo and a New Year of Travel and Food

Welcome to the new Grantourismo and a new year of travel and food. We’re kicking off 2019 with a fresh new design that is more user-friendly and much more mobile-friendly, with comprehensive new travel destination guides, and other features to better help you plan your travels.

If you’ve dropped by Grantourismo since the New Year, you may have noticed that we quietly launched a new design with a cleaner look and feel and the introduction of new travel destination guides that we hope better serve both regular readers and new visitors to the site. Here’s why and here’s what’s new.

Welcome to the New Grantourismo

If you haven’t explored the new Grantourismo yet, we’d love you to poke around and take a look and let us know what you think. I also thought I’d highlight some of the new features for you.

While the old Grantourismo served us well in most respects, we were continually hampered by the WordPress theme developers we used to develop the site. It’s been frustrating, but looking at it from a wider lens, their inadequacies were not the only element that prevented us from giving you an optimal experience. We rethought both aspects.

We’ve also swapped our hosting service from one that I was not happy with in terms of speed, reliability and service. They had a service called ‘Managed WordPress Hosting’ which just meant that whenever you asked a question about WordPress they managed to find a way to ignore it. We’ve been hosting with Flywheel for over 12 months and speed, reliability and service are top notch and exclusively hosting WordPress sites is their business. They’ll even migrate your WordPress site for free.

A Mobile Friendlier Site

Although the old Grantourismo site worked fine on mobile devices, it never really felt that the tablet and phone users’ experience was on par with that of desktop users. As our traffic is from more mobile devices than desktops/laptops we knew we needed an outstanding mobile experience. We also found during research that mobile users were more inclined to spontaneously look up ‘Things to do in Siem Reap when it rains?‘ while their in town on their phone/tablet than a laptop.

With the new design, I’m proud to say that it really has great usability on mobile and better reflects the Grantourismo brand I originally envisioned when we launched the site nine years ago. Try it on your phones and tablets and let us know what you think.

New User Friendlier Navigation

When we first launched Grantourismo on New Year’s Day in 2010 with our 12-month global grand tour and our ‘slow, local and experiential travel’ quest, we started the site from scratch. That was the year we spent 356 days on the road, settled into 36 holiday rentals in 34 places around the world, and travelled 88.417 km / 54,940 miles – a quarter of the way to the moon!

During the year I took 57,000 photos and we wrote 424,150 words to create some 499 posts, including 40 recipes for our series on Weekend Eggs and The Dish. After our grand tour ended, we continued travelling and posting and after a few years it all became a bit unwieldy. The first re-design was partly aimed at re-organising all of the content we’d created into a more manageable form.

During the first year of Grantourismo, visitors to the site found us on social media or met us in the real world and followed our grand tour, engaging with us along the way. But as our travel changed in the years following, becoming less structured (we were no longer heading to a new destination every two weeks) and we were settling into places for longer, so, too, did our readers change.

As our visitor numbers have continued to grow, users have increasingly been arriving on Grantourismo having searched for something specific and so have a purpose in being here – generally to do destination research or they’ve arrived having searched for a recipe. Interestingly, the recipes remain some of our most visited posts. I have a feeling – supported by interactions with our visitors who cook our recipes – that our research in a particular destination has been as fruitful as I had hoped.

Welcome to the new Grantourismo – New Destination Travel Guides

Every destination now has a travel guide. There are basic travel guides for places we’ve spent just two weeks in, for which we might only have a dozen posts, such as the 34 places on our 2010 grand tour, from Mexico City to Marrakech, Paris to New York, Buenos Aires to Berlin to Budapest.

And we’ve created comprehensive travel guides for places we’ve lived or spent a lot of time, which have a great volume of content, such as Bangkok, Siem Reap and Bali. These offer itineraries, stories and guides organised into sections such as Stay, Eat, Drink, Explore, Experience, Absorb, and Shop.

We’ve also created sections on Festivals and Events, Local Knowledge and Resources. The Local Knowledge section contains the many Local Knowledge interviews we’ve done with locals in each place since the 2010 grand tour, as well as posts offering insider advice.

As authors of travel guidebooks (and as the designer of Australia’s first travel websites in a former career), this makes more sense compared to the form blogs took when we began blogging over a decade ago and better suits Grantourismo’s transition from a travel blog to travel site.

Also born from our guidebook backgrounds, as much as reader questions, is a new Essentials section at the end of each comprehensive destination guide. This cover practicalities, such as when to go, health and visa information, currency used, language spoken, basic transport info, and the power plugs to take (complete with an image). You can also check local time and current weather, get an idea of Daily Costs, and see our curated Reading Lists.

While there are plenty of travel websites that offer this information, including the websites of the big print travel publishers, we’ve tried to present it in a more user-friendly format. Let us know what you think and if there are other things you’d like to see added.

The basic travel guides feature all their posts on one page for now. Click ‘load more’ to see all posts and we ask that you be patient during these early days as it may take a few seconds to display all the stories the first time you visit that destination. It’s something we’re working on with our developers.

And if you don’t see a destination that you’re looking for in the main drop down menu, search for it: just click on the looking glass icon to the right of the list of continents and a Search Box will appear. We have an abundance of posts that are currently not listed by destination that will gradually get their own guides and appear on the main destination menu.

If the destinations are not listed yet, it means we’ve been too busy to add posts (Myanmar, Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia are all destinations we’re way behind in posting stories on) or we don’t quite have enough posts yet (cities in Australia such as Darwin fit in this category, along with the Western Australian region of Margaret River).

Welcome to the new Grantourismo – New Destinations to Launch in 2019

We’ve launched the new Grantourismo with comprehensive travel guides for Siem Reap, Bangkok and Bali, but over coming weeks and months we’ll continue to gradually launch more complete destination guides for all of our Southeast Asia and Australia destinations, from Sydney, Melbourne and Perth, to Hanoi, Saigon, Phnom Penh, and Luang Prabang.

We’ll also add Dubai, where we lived for nearly eight years before we took to the road in 2006, which was not only the first destination we wrote about as travel guidebook authors, but we were also some of the first travel writers to write on Dubai, just as tourism boomed in that region.

After that, we’ll look to the rest of Asia and other destinations that are popular on Grantourismo, from European destinations such as Italy and Spain to destinations in South America and beyond. In the meantime, if you’ve never browsed our back catalogue, we invite you to peruse a few destinations that you dream of travelling to this year.

Welcome to the new Grantourismo – More Flexibility and Special Sections

Before you could only access those from the top tool bar, but now you can find them on the main page, beneath Latest Stories. Some of those thematic posts are also filed under their relevant destination but others, such as tips to learning local languages or how to eat like locals when you travel, might only be filed here.

The new homepage gives us a lot of flexibility to add special temporary sections such as our current Holiday Guide featuring stories on everything from chefs’ holiday cooking tips to cocktail recipes. This has been heavily utilised since we put it up before Christmas but we’ll take it down soon. From time to time we’ll feature special sections themed by season or showcasing a destination we’ve visited or journey we’re undertaking.

How You Can Support Grantourismo

When you visit the destination guides you’ll notice that we’ve punctuated sections, where relevant, with search boxes for accommodation via Booking.com, tours on Get Your Guide, and we have Reading Lists with links to Amazon.

We’ve endeavoured to place these where they make sense and present them in a way that is not only aesthetically pleasing and in keeping with the design, but in a way that we hope is not disruptive to your experience of the site.

We have affiliate partnerships with all of these sites, which means that if you click through from Grantourismo and you book or buy something, we earn a small commission, but you don’t pay any extra than if you’d gone to the site directly.

If you’ve used Grantourismo and found our content inspiring, insightful and informative and it has helped you to not only better plan your travels but to have a better trip, we ask you to consider booking your accommodation and tours through us and buying your insurance, books and resources via the site, to support the work that we do here.

Grantourismo is a labour of love but it’s also a business and the income we make from the site enables us to pay our rent as well as continue to travel to update the existing content and undertake new research and experience new places that we hope will help you to travel more meaningfully and more memorably.

Pictured above: Pho ga in Hanoi, Vietnam, one of the destinations we’ll be adding more content to soon.

Support our Cambodia Cookbook & Culinary History Book with a donation or monthly pledge on Patreon.

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About Terence Carter

Terence Carter is an editorial food and travel photographer and infrequent travel writer with a love of photographing people, places and plates of food. After living in the Middle East for a dozen years, he settled in South-East Asia a dozen years ago with his wife, travel and food writer and sometime magazine editor Lara Dunston.

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Cameron says

    January 21, 2019 at 8:43 pm

    I’ve only recently came upon your website, and one thing I first noticed was how nice and smooth it seemed. Knowing that you recently updated it is pretty cool. It’s very well done! It’s very modern feeling, nice menus, and an overall clean look.

    I haven’t seen it on the mobile version yet, so everything I’ve experienced so far has been on the desktop. Great job!

  2. Lara Dunston says

    January 22, 2019 at 8:10 pm

    Thanks for the feedback, Cameron – much appreciated. Let us know if you ever get to Siem Reap and we’ll look you up when we’re next in Bali. As advocates of experiential travel we’re always looking for learning experiences for our readers. Your surfing camp looks terrific.

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About Grantourismo

Lara and Terence are an Australian-born, Southeast Asia-based travel and food writers and photographers who have authored scores of guidebooks, produced countless travel and food stories, are currently developing cookbooks and guidebooks, and host culinary tours and writing and photography retreats in Southeast Asia.
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Price Check: a Berlin Shopping List. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved. Berlin, Germany.

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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

#christmasgiftideas #ediblegifts ##christmasfoodgifts #foodgifts #giftideas #homemadegifts #christmasfood #ediblegiftideas #hotsauce #chillisauce #sriracha #pickles #homemadepickles #recipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood 
#blackcat #blackcatsofinstagram #picoftheday 
#christmas #christmastree #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas #cambodia #siemreap
This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

#siemreap #cambodia #asia #travel #instatravel #traveldeeper #slowtravel #localtravel #experientialtravel #exploremore #neverstopexploring #goexplore #igtravel #angkorwat #angkor #temple #temples #angkorwithoutcrowds #unesco #unescoworldheritagesite #unescoworldheritage #archaeology #archaeologicalsite #traveladdict #beautifuldestinations #beautifulplaces #travelgram #wanderlust #picoftheday📷 #grantourismotravels.
Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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