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Spaghetti con Vongole e Bottarga Recipe, Teulada, Sardinia, Italy. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Spaghetti con Vongole e Bottarga Recipe Made in Teulada on the Island of Sardinia, Italy

This spaghetti con vongole e bottarga recipe was taught to me by locals in Teulada, Sardinia. I then made it for them a couple of nights later for a dinner party in our little casa – and they liked it! Which was a compliment coming from Italians!

When we checked into our colourful casa in Teulada, Sardinia, our host Antonio showed us around the charming apartment. In addition to the many thoughtful little extras he and his wife, Christina, provide for their guests (which you can see in this post), Antonio also left me a Sardinian cookbook and a packet of powder that looked a little like the spice turmeric, telling me that, as I liked to cook, this was the local specialty. Well, I love a challenge!

But it turned out, it wasn’t a powder at all, it was bottarga – salted, pressed, dried, and ground grey mullet roe. It might not sound that appetising, but for seafood lovers its aroma is amazing and it has a very moreish quality.

I knew I had tasted it somewhere before and then, after some research, I realised I had ordered it a few years ago in Sicily with some pasta, and, due to my literal translation of the dish, I remembered I had been expecting salmon-like roe not a powder!

The fact that I had tried it in Sicily first is revealing. It is now generally accepted that the technique to make the product was introduced to Sicily by the Arabs, having first been perfected by the Phoenicians.

The Greeks, however, will dispute this. Maybe I should turn the comments off for this post…

Spaghetti con Vongole e Bottarga Recipe Made in Teulada on the Island of Sardinia, Italy

The dried roe that is bottarga is a kind of a dirty orange-coloured slab, which is also served cut into pieces with tomatoes and lemon juice. When it’s used for a pasta it’s generally ground to a potent powder.

On our first night in Sardinia, I tried it for the first time on the island with vongole (clams) at Teulada’s best restaurant, La Grotta Azzurra. Wow! The simplicity of the dish, the perfectly cooked pasta, and just the right amount of bottarga…

I had virtually inhaled the dish before the others had even wrapped their first mouthful of spaghetti around their forks. I knew I had to make my own version of it.

The classic, simple, fisherman’s version of the dish consists of spaghetti, olive oil (home-pressed, of course!) and a little chilli, and the bottarga is left in a bowl on the table, so each person can vary the amount they sprinkle on their plate depending on individual taste.

Other recipes I read had all kinds of complications that to me added nothing to the dish, so I decided to keep it simple. Put the spaghetti on. Olive oil in a medium-hot pan with some slightly crushed garlic, cooked until lightly coloured then discarded.

A tablespoon of bottarga added to the pan with some butter, some chopped parsley, and a tiny touch of peperoncino. Add the diced flesh of a couple of ripe tomatoes. Mix in the cooked pasta. Done.

That night we ate it again at another local restaurant Antonio had recommended, Sebera. It was just as good as the first night, but I have to confess I think that vongole is not really necessary to have a great spaghetti con bottarga.

Nor do I think that bottarga and vongole are a perfect match (although Lara thinks it’s sublime). I can only say this now because I’ve just left the island. Every guy there carries his own switchblade!

A few nights later our neighbours came over to cook some barbecue fish for dinner, and Antonio, Christina and their daughter Sarah joined us, so I decided to test out my spaghetti con vongole e bottarga on a local audience. Fortunately, they enjoyed it.

Here’s my version – locally-approved if the empty plates on the table are any indication.

Spaghetti con Vongole e Bottarga Recipe 

Spaghetti con Vongole e Bottarga Recipe, Teulada, Sardinia, Italy. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Spaghetti con Vongole e Bottarga Recipe

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This classic, simple, fisherman’s pasta consists of spaghetti, olive oil (home-pressed, of course!) and a little chili, and the bottarga is left in a bowl on the table, so each person can vary the amount they sprinkle on their plate depending on individual taste. This version gets a little fancy, with the addition of vongole (clams).
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 25 minutes
Course: Main
Cuisine: Sardinian
Servings: 4
Calories: 841kcal
Author: Terence Carter

Ingredients

  • 500 g 1lb spaghetti (No.5)
  • 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 small knob of butter
  • 1 kg 2.2lb small clams (vongole)
  • 50 g 1.75oz packet of bottarga di muggine macinata (you may not use it all)
  • 1 cup dry white wine for the pot 1 glass extra for the chef
  • 4 cloves of garlic crushed slightly
  • Good pinch of peperoncino or dried red chilli, chopped into tiny pieces
  • Bunch of fresh parsley finely chopped

Instructions

  • In a large saucepan of boiling salted water, cook the pasta as per the timing listed with the instructions. It’s usually around 8 minutes for this size spaghetti.
  • Back away from the olive oil bottle! Don’t waste good olive oil by putting it in with the pasta. It’s the rolling boil that stops it sticking together; adding oil to stop pasta sticking is a myth. Maybe an olive oil producer came up with that one…anyway back to the recipe.
  • Heat the olive oil in a pan and sauté the garlic. Add the peperoncino and a handful of the chopped parsley.
  • Take out the garlic and add the wine, clams, and a tablespoon of bottarga. Put the heat on high and cover the pan.
  • Sip your wine. Wait about 4–5 minutes for the clams to cook.
  • Discard any clams that don’t look like opening. Some say this is a myth. If some of these non-believers are at your table for dinner and are being disagreeable about it, give them those unopened clams to eat while you finish the dish.
  • Drain the pasta. Toss with the clams and sauce. Add another tablespoon of bottarga.
  • Serve the pasta family-style or individually, it’s up to you, but make sure there’s a little dish of bottarga on the table and a spoon for sprinkling it over the pasta. Because your guests will want more.

Nutrition

Serving: 1g | Calories: 841kcal | Carbohydrates: 115.4g | Protein: 50.5g | Fat: 21.2g | Saturated Fat: 4.4g | Cholesterol: 85mg | Sodium: 169mg | Fiber: 0.6g | Sugar: 0.4g

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About Terence Carter

Terence Carter is an editorial food and travel photographer and infrequent travel writer with a love of photographing people, places and plates of food. After living in the Middle East for a dozen years, he settled in South-East Asia a dozen years ago with his wife, travel and food writer and sometime magazine editor Lara Dunston.

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Jen Laceda says

    May 20, 2010 at 4:51 am

    pasta con vongole is my fave seafood pasta; however, i have not tried it with bottarga. i have to look for it now in Toronto. time to scour the shelves of little italy here. by the way, how is that first pasta so creamy yellow? yum-yum!

  2. Terence Carter says

    May 20, 2010 at 5:11 am

    I’m not sure whether you’ll find it unless the dudes in Little Italy are from Sicily, Calabria or Sardinia – which is quite possible – many of them emigrated to Argentina, Australia, Canada & the US.

    First pasta is probably really yellow due to me working against shitty restaurant lighting, the side of the plate is white, but I can’t remember how yellow the pasta was. Too busy trying to get to eat the stuff than worrying about white balance! I could write a chapter of a book on shitty restaurant lighting and food photos…;)

    If you do find Bottarga, I would make it the fisherman’s style first. Simple is better.

    Cheers,

    T

  3. Lesley Peterson says

    May 16, 2013 at 6:45 am

    Spaghetti with crumbs and bottarga is one of my favorite dishes and something I always seek out in Sicily. Would love to try it with clams!

  4. Joey says

    July 5, 2021 at 2:01 pm

    One of my favourites! So happy to find this recipe as I see bottarga for sale in some Italian delis!5 stars

  5. Terence Carter says

    July 5, 2021 at 4:03 pm

    Hey Joey, good to hear, even in Southeast Asia we can get bottarga, nduja and other Calabrian sausage.
    I guess the world is waking up to these great ingredients,
    Cheers
    T

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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

#christmasgiftideas #ediblegifts ##christmasfoodgifts #foodgifts #giftideas #homemadegifts #christmasfood #ediblegiftideas #hotsauce #chillisauce #sriracha #pickles #homemadepickles #recipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood 
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This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

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I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

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Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

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Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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