Bookbinder Paolo Olbi and his typesetter Beppi may be Venice’s last great artisans, making every component of their beautiful products by hand in Paolo’s atmospheric workshop in Castello, Venice. We met these generous Venetians when we settled into a Grand Canal-side palazzo apartment for two weeks to get an insight into how locals live in Venice.
I first stumbled across one of Paolo Olbi’s beautiful shops on Campo Santa Maria Nova by accident and was immediately smitten by the leather-bound notebooks in the window with their fine leather ties.
The shop was closed, so I noted down his other shop on Calle della Mandola to see if I could find the source of these exquisitely-bound traditional paper products: elegant note pads, address books, photo albums, stationery, and business cards.
Meet Paolo Olbi, Venice’s Master of Paper, Printing and Bookbinding
At the elegant store on Calle della Mandola, I found Paolo Olbi at work in the back room, embossing patterns into the leather covers of small notebooks, while his wife manned the counter out front, chatting to staff. She was busy and he was occupied, so I chose a few gifts while I waited.
A group of 20-ish Americans trooped in. One of the guys began thumbing through different notepads, running his fingers across the hand-bound covers, obviously determined to buy one, despite his bored young friends’ attempts to put him off.
“Don’t you think they’re, like, old-fashioned?” one girl asked. “Why don’t you get a Moleskin instead?” another suggested. “They’re expensive, aren’t they…” one friend commented, “How do you know they won’t fall apart?”
And, the most bewildering question of all: “How do you even know they’re made in Venice?”
I resisted the urge to thump that whiny young woman, but I couldn’t resist the urge to interrupt the incessant questioning.
“They’re cheaper than Moleskins, they won’t fall apart, they’re limited editions, and the man you see out back is making them by hand, so I think they might just be made in Venice.”
“What do you use them for?” the whiny one asked me. Thankfully, for her sake, the young guy, ignoring his ignorant friend, took a few of the beautiful hand-bound notebooks to the counter. The friend looked at her watch. Paolo’s wife looked appreciative.
When I showed an interest in what Paolo was doing and explained what Terence and I were doing in Venice, the bookbinder invited us to visit him at his workshop the next day.
There, Paolo and Beppi – with the wonderful help of his friend Paolo Lucidi, a glassmaker and artist, who translated for us – spent a couple of hours patiently taking us through the traditional printing and bookbinding process.
Paolo showed us how they create wood plates of the patterns for the book covers, which are inspired by old Venetian designs and typesetting.
The typesetting, which is Beppi’s role, is all done by hand using old plates and old type, as is the binding of the books by Paolo, which Terence, a book designer and book publishing manager in his former life was delighted to learn.
Paolo made us a sample book cover while we were there. It takes him one hour to make a small notebook when all the pieces are prepared, while it takes him about five hours to make a photo album.
He also shared with us a personal project he’s been working on for some time, a splendid one-off book on Venice’s palazzi. His ‘dream job’, Paolo confides.
Over a glass of vino at a local bar around the corner Paolo tells us: “I love my job. I’m the only one around doing this. I’ll never retire.”
Paolo is happy to welcome visitors to his workshop. He wants people to appreciate the traditional artisanal process and the value of his products.
Paolo is also keen to collaborate on book projects. Just call into one of his shops when you’re in Venice and make a time to visit his workshop.
But make sure that you buy one of his notebooks. Trust me, you’ll never use another Moleskin again.
Paolo Olbi
Campo Santa Maria Nuova 6061
Venice, Italy
041 523 7655
I LOVE this kind of old world artistry / craftsmanship. I wish I knew of his store when I was in Venice. A book designer and publisher in a former life? What CAN’T Terry do?
Sorry, I meant to say, “What CAN’T Terry not do?” Wait a minute…that’s a double negative…LOL.
Great post and even greater pictures!
Will definitly go there next time I am in Venice!
Viele Grüsse, Kristina
Having just finished the second book in Cornelia Funke’s Inkheart series (Inkspell) ,where books and book binding is celebrated in a fantasy setting, it is wonderful to meet a real life bookbinder. Will absolutely visit next time in Venice! ( Meggie and Mo from Inkheart would have approved…)
It’s okay, Jen. We know what you mean. Yes, he’s a man of many talents!
So is Paolo – it was extraordinary watching him make a photo album from scratch, I tell you! I’d love to learn that stuff… but unfortunately not enough time, so I was satisfied watching. Wonderful! I just hope he can find young people to train in this, which is what he’d love to do.
thumbs up for such an art!
Why thank you! Much appreciated.
We’ll have to look that book up. Next time you’re in Venice, please do take a print out of this story to Paolo if you wouldn’t mind. And ask to see his workshop. I know he won’t mind showing you.
Agree! It’s wonderful stuff, isn’t it?
We met Paolo and his wife in the small shop on 24th July 2010 – he told me he has young students – and I am sure they will have wonderful tuition – he is such a friendly guy.
He inspired me to complete a special project I started a few years ago – knowing that if it doesn’t work out as beautiful as I might wish – I can always send the ‘signatures’ out to Paolo for him to encase into one of his super leather bindings.
Hi John, thanks for your comment, yes Paolo is a gentle soul, isn’t he?
It’s a shame you didn’t get to see the wonderful pen and ink book he’s working on full of illustrations of the most beautiful buildings of Venice.
That was incredibly inspiring to me as someone who used to design books for a living. I do hope it doesn’t die out.
Cheers,
T
Lovely post.
I’ve never had the pleasure of meeting Paolo, but I did have several nice chats with his (I believe it was) sister.
Did you visit the shop of or have the opportunity to meet Alberto Valese while you were in Venice? He makes hand-marbled papers and hand-bound books, too.
Wonderful! That’s his wife, I think. Sweet woman! Didn’t meet Alberto but I shall look him up next time. Thanks for dropping by!
Ah, thank you. Okay. His wife. I don’t know how I got it in my head that she was his sister. At any rate, had to pop back again to look at these wonderful photos. I just love Paolo’s work and (always) miss Venice, so much.
I’ve just come back from Venice, and I had the pleasure of meeting Paolo while I was there. He has just the one shop now, outside the university, and it took me a while to find him but oh, it was worth it. I bought one of his diaries and it’s so, so beautiful.
He had a bowl of sweets on his workbench and offered me one on the way out, which made me smile. I don’t intend to leave it too long before returning to Venice and I’ll certainly be going back to Paolo’s shop.
Hello Lynsey – I’m so pleased you met Paolo and loved his beautiful things. Aren’t they wonderful? Thanks for letting us know that he’s closed the other shop. I’ll have to email him. We have been missing Venice terribly actually. Molto grazie for your visit! x
I am so glad I came across this post! I am going to Venice this fall, so I will make sure to stop in. Paolo’s items sound just delightful.
Hi just to save you the long walk I just did, the shop changed 3 years ago, no longer sells this work and is now a hat shop
The one on Mandola that is
Thanks, Savannah! Do stop in – they are so beautiful. Please note that Lynsey, above, says he has closed the Mandola shop. Jealous!
Hi Emma – Paolo still has the Campo Santa Maria Nuova shop, as well as the workshop. He and his wife are getting on and getting tired, so they had to close the Mandola shop. No walk in Venice is too long to do! I find every lane and alley on the island an absolute delight to wander, don’t you? Thanks for dropping by!
Just a quick update for finding his shop as I have just returned from Venice and spend some time finding shops which have since closed!
I was able to find Paolo at Ponte Ca’ Foscari 3253 – Dorsoduro 30123. I’m unsure if there are any other locations, and his website seems not to have been updated the addresses/locations in a while.
Thanks, Allison! Much appreciated. That must be a new shop – sounds like he’s closed the other two. I’ve emailed a Venetian friend and asked her to call him and confirm. Thanks for stopping by!
I’ve been there and LOVE LOVE LOVED it…..his work is amazing and it’s a real honor to see it. Thanks so much for sharing this kind of work. BTW, is there a way to share this article and images via email? My parents don’t have twitter or FB. Thanks again! — Julie
We stumbled across his shop while getting lost in Venice; beautiful place, (well, all of Venice was magic) and warm, inviting people inside. It’s a treasure. An absolute treasure.
Fantastic to hear! Thanks!
Hello Em – so pleased you found Paolo Olbi’s shop and loved it. Were Paolo and his wife still there? I heard one report that someone younger was running the shop now. And another report that both shops were now closed. But I haven’t had a chance to follow up with our Venetian friends. I’ll try and do that soon. Thanks for dropping by!
Lara, were you able to find out anything regarding the current status of Paolo’s shops? I haven’t been there in years now, and I am so curious if he is still working… Would love to go back soon and visit his workshop in Castello if he still maintains it as well. He wrote the address on a bookmark and gave it to me when I was there last, but I didn’t have a chance to go!
Hi Amber, I heard from a reader recently who said she did go to one of Paolo’s shops and bought some beautiful gifts but she couldn’t remember which one. I have a friend heading to Venice in a few days so I’ll ask her to investigate and then I’ll update this page.
I was just at Paolo’s shop at Dorsoduro 30123 the first week of May. Paolo himself was there working away and we bought some lovely souvenirs. Wish we could have chatted with him but the language barrier prevented it. Had to make due with gestures and smiles. So yes, he is very much still in business!
Fantastic to hear! Thanks so much Carrie.