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Eating Out in Marrakech. Cous Cous, Marrakech, Morocco. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Eating Out in Marrakech, from Riad Restaurants to Rooftop Cafes

Our guide to Eating Out in Marrakech is partly a reflection of our quest to identify a quintessential dish of Marrakech that I could learn to cook during our stay. We dined at plenty of restaurants, from palatial fine diners and atmospheric riads to rooftop cafes and Parisian-style brasseries. Here’s our pick of the best Marrakech restaurants.

Eating Out in Marrakech

Dar Yacout

When it comes to eating out in Marrakech, there are few experiences more quintessential than a night out at Dar Yacout. The restaurant impresses with its extravagance and is something every visitor heading to Marrakech should aim to experience. But onto the food… the salad starters here were impressive: a delicious eggplant, red pepper and zucchini salad, a scrumptious sweet tomato and rose confit, but the highlight was the hot briouts or turnovers that are filled with meats or cheeses. The chicken tagine with olives and preserved lemons was one of the best we’ve tried. The chicken was super moist, the sauce lemony and zesty. Lamb with artichokes and peas followed and while the lamb was succulent, the artichokes and peas were a tad too mushy for our liking. With desserts, a massive keneffa was up first. Made up of layers of filo pastry, custard, cinnamon and almonds, it’s a special occasion treat. It has crunch, sweetness and those with a sweet tooth will be in heaven. Mint tea and more sweet things followed – the lovely Kab El Ghzal or gazelle’s horns, consisting of pastry in a half-moon shape filled with almonds and the lovely scent of orange blossom were the best we tried in eating out in Marrakech.

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Le Fondouk

Like Dar Yacout, the arrival at Le Fondouk is dramatic – your taxi is met by a man in a jellabiya carrying a lantern, who leads you into the restaurant. Inside, the room is everything the dusty, ramshackle street outside is not. It’s very glam, gorgeously-lit, sophisticated, and of course exotic in the way only Marrakech restaurants can be. An eclectic soundtrack here is a reminder of the international crowd (we heard David Byrne and Radiohead amongst others) and while we were disappointed there weren’t as many locals as there were the last time we visited the food was still very good. We started with a mixed plate of delicious piping hot briouts, and assortment of tasty salads. A scrumptious rabbit pastilla – a first for us – was both very sweet and very salty, served with ‘dry grapes’ (raisins) and onions. The meat of the rabbit is much more suited to this dish than chicken, which is what many of the more timid visitors opt for. The lamb tajine with artichokes and peas was very good, the meat moist, and the artichokes and peas still packing plenty of flavour.

Al Fassia

Elegant, bustling, and buzzy, Al Fassia initially stands out from the crowd with its women chefs and waitresses, but by the end of the meal you don’t care who is in the kitchen, it’s the food here that’s the centre of attention. We started with an assortment of a dozen teensy Moroccan salads – the usual ones – but these were delicious and we all fought over the last tastes. The harira soup was delicious – thick, hearty, with chunks of lamb we also fought over. The pigeon pastilla was the best we’ve ever sampled – and we’ve had a flock of them – tasty meat and crispy pastry, and the perfect balance of that wonderful combination of sweet and savoury that makes the dish unique. Lamb tajine with confit tomatoes followed – melt-in-your-mouth fall-apart lamb, and a sweet, rich sauce – the best we’ve had as well. The chicken tajine with olives and lemons had a sauce that was a lot darker and heavier than any we’ve tried before, less tangy and zesty, but a lot more complex. All in all an outstanding Moroccan feast.

Café Arabe

We’re not sure whether this is so popular because it’s in the guidebooks or because you can get alcohol here – there is probably a connection there! Regardless, while the food wasn’t extraordinary, this is a great lunch choice if you like a glass of wine with your meal, as there are few places in the souqs where you can get a drink without having to eat a set-menu Dar Yactout-style feast. The place is gorgeous – there’s a restaurant on the ground floor that strikes a balance between being simultaneously casual and elegant, a groovy first floor Berber-inspired majlis-style bar, and a breezy rooftop bar. The menu is an odd combination of Moroccan and Italian and the best we can say is that we’re grateful they weren’t both on the same plate. Do pop in for a bite to eat and a drink though.

Terrasse Espices

This rooftop terrace café is signposted as a ‘bar’ and while it looks like a fab lounge bar, no alcohol is served. Located smackbang in the souqs it’s good for a lunch stop if you haven’t finished shopping. The décor is very cool with banquette seating, Oriental tray tables and billowing curtains giving privacy to the individual seating areas, while there are fascinating views over the rooftops of the souq. The young waiting staff are all dressed in black trousers, t-shirts and aprons, and there’s a chilled soundtrack. This is the good bit. The food was average, a Mechwi du Chef was tasty but tougher than some of the leather in the souq below. The Tride au Pigeon also had a delicious flavour and the pastry/pasta was super tasty, but the pigeon itself was too scrawny and way too dry. Still, it’s a lovely spot for a quick lunch in between souqs.

Eating Out in Marrakech – Other Restaurants to Try…

Marrakchi

The only restaurant on the main square that serves alcohol and must have one of the most atmospheric interiors of any restaurants in Marrakech. While the food isn’t as good as it once was, it’s worth a meal here for the atmosphere, the decent, but not exciting fare, the entertainment (bellydancers), and the medina location, especially if you are staying here and don’t want to venture to the new city. The staff really push through the patrons though and were quite rude to two tables next to us. Shame.

Tangia

Located near the metal-workers souq, is set in another splendid building and while an inside table is the way to go for an evening meal (complete with live music), the rooftop, with views over the medina, is the best choice for lunch. The food is good if not great – the tajine kefta aux tomates et oeufs (meatballs with tomato and egg) was tasty and the lamb couscous with vegetables was good if unevenly cooked. Oddly, they had no red wine and only two bottles of beer left (really?) when we visited and the service was slow and uneven (despite there only being three tables occupied). “Service is not included, would you like me to put it on your credit card?”. Err, no thanks.

Le Grande Café de la Poste

This makes a welcoming change from Moroccan when you’ve had your fill of couscous and tajine (never, says Lara). Expect a combination of French and Mediterranean cuisine – fantastic oysters, decent pastas and steaks – in a glamorous setting that can only be described as Parisian brasserie with Moroccan-colonial accents, with banquettes, potted palms and ceiling fans. Even if you don’t want to go all Francophile, at least drop in for a drink.

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About Terence Carter

Terence Carter is an editorial food and travel photographer and infrequent travel writer with a love of photographing people, places and plates of food. After living in the Middle East for a dozen years, he settled in South-East Asia a dozen years ago with his wife, travel and food writer and sometime magazine editor Lara Dunston.

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Jen Laceda says

    March 7, 2010 at 12:47 pm

    We practically ate kefta everyday in Marrakech :) Nice round up of places to eat in the city!

  2. Terence Carter says

    March 7, 2010 at 1:19 pm

    Thanks Jen,
    Kefta every day? We have a threshold called ‘couscous critical mass’ which is when you can’t face another plate of couscous! Happens about the second week!

  3. alexandra says

    March 16, 2010 at 3:05 pm

    Hi! My mom sent me your blog site. I just bougth tickets and reserved a Riad in Marrakech for next week and I have a question. I didn’t see any post relating to hammams or spas on your blog. Do you have any advice or suggestions? My fiancee has never had a message or been to a spa/hammam/sauna before and I wanted to take him someplace cool. I would love some ideas!!!

  4. lara dunston says

    August 25, 2010 at 10:54 am

    Hi Alexandra – I’m so sorry I missed this comment of yours somehow. We didn’t mention hammams or spas, but there are plenty around. If you want a more local and authentic experience then opt for your nearest hammam – just ask the riad staff to direct you as the neighbourhood ones are all pretty much the same. Hammams can be rough and not as gentle as spas, but they’re often more atmospheric and you’ll get a better insight into the culture. I wonder which one you did… I’ll see if I can track you down and find out… once again, sorry for not getting back to you earlier.

  5. Cherszy says

    July 2, 2011 at 2:59 am

    We spent only a day in Marrakech (such an interesting city), and sadly, we didn’t get to try a lot of their specialties due to lack of time and unfamiliarity with what to consume. However, if we get the chance to visit it again next time, I’ll bring with me these suggestions of yours. Sounds like great places! :)

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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

#christmasgiftideas #ediblegifts ##christmasfoodgifts #foodgifts #giftideas #homemadegifts #christmasfood #ediblegiftideas #hotsauce #chillisauce #sriracha #pickles #homemadepickles #recipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood 
#blackcat #blackcatsofinstagram #picoftheday 
#christmas #christmastree #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas #cambodia #siemreap
This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

#siemreap #cambodia #asia #travel #instatravel #traveldeeper #slowtravel #localtravel #experientialtravel #exploremore #neverstopexploring #goexplore #igtravel #angkorwat #angkor #temple #temples #angkorwithoutcrowds #unesco #unescoworldheritagesite #unescoworldheritage #archaeology #archaeologicalsite #traveladdict #beautifuldestinations #beautifulplaces #travelgram #wanderlust #picoftheday📷 #grantourismotravels.
Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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