The Giant Puppet Project Parade Snakes Through Siem Reap

Giant Puppet Project, Siem Reap, Cambodia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Giant Puppet Project Parade snakes through Siem Reap on a Saturday night each February. If you’re heading to Cambodia in 2017 try to time your trip to coincide with this wonderful event. It’s a fun-filled night that’s made for families with kids. Getting along to local festivals and events, whether as an observer or participant, is a wonderful way to get … Read more

Scenes from the Siem Reap Water Festival – Bon Om Tuk in Images

A race begins at the Siem Reap Water Festival, (Bon Om Tuk) Siem Reap, Cambodia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Browse these scenes from the Siem Reap Water Festival or Bon Om Tuk in Khmer, which marks the end of monsoon and reversal of the Tonle Sap (Great Lake) with boat races, water rituals, and celebrations. Terence can usually be found on the riverside capturing the water festival.

Scroll down to browse Terence’s stunning photographs of scenes from the Siem Reap Water Festival or Bon Om Tuk in the Khmer language, held in Siem Reap every October-November. Hopefully they inspire you to book a flight to Cambodia

You can read more here about the Siem Reap Water Festival and the long history of the festival, the traditions and ceremonies, what to expect, and our tips on how best to experience Bon Om Tuk with the locals.

Scenes from the Siem Reap Water Festival – Bon Om Tuk in Images

The highlight of the three-day Siem Reap Water Festival is the first two days of boat races. Teams consist of people representing their village, community or place of work. There’s a lot of participation from staff working at hotels, for government departments, and even in the army. Some teams practice for days, others for weeks.

The Siem Reap riverbanks get packed with spectators, mostly locals and Cambodian tourists, but there are increasingly foreign visitors too.

Some of the observers are here to support particular teams – villagers who have travelled a long distance camp out on the river bank, stringing hammocks up and spreading matting out to prepare food and eat and drink together, and the crowd arranges itself around the happy campers to watch the races.

It’s always wonderful to see the spectators getting especially excited during the women’s races. And it’s not only the women watching who are jumping up and down. Last festival, we spotted a number of male members in the VIP seats across the water leap to their feet each time the ladies rowed by.

Whether male or female, the rowers take the races seriously, as you can see from the scenes from the Siem Reap Water Festival, below – especially the images of the teams in orange and yellow t-shirts, who always appeared to have looks of intense concentration on their faces.

 

Even in the blistering heat of the mid afternoon, the crowds don’t diminish. They just don their hats (check out the wide array of styles in the pictures above) or improvise, protecting their heads with kramas (a traditional Cambodian cotton checked scarf), t-shirts, and hand towels.

Aside from the boat races, there are demonstrations of bokator, a centuries-old martial art that dates back to the Khmer Empire. I love Terence’s shot of the bokator fighter with intricate tattoos on his chest. We’ve got a story coming on bokator, but the tattoos offer strength and protection.

As evident in the scenes from the Siem Reap Water Festival above, people also enjoy the opportunity the holiday provides to be able to stroll the car-free riverside streets. Normally the leafy riverside roads are busy with vehicles, so it’s fabulous to see the streets free of traffic and people happily wandering along the waterfront.

There are plenty of stalls to browse selling all sorts of (sometimes strange) things, from cheap clothes and kids toys to tractors and other farming machinery. But most people seem content just to amble.

Festival goers also appear to relish the opportunity to sit around with family and friends and eat and drink and watch the live music on stages and the grassy riverbanks.

Cambodian street food is in abundance during the Siem Reap Water Festival, with stalls lining the riverside and filling the parks. Click through to the link to drool over the array of street food on offer.

The highlight of the event for us is always the final hour. After the last boat all of the crews row down the river together to the VIP tent to hear the victorious teams announced. It’s always an emotional scene and a colourful spectacle made all the more atmospheric by the setting sun.

Every crew rows with great pride, relishing their victories, however small, raising their oars in the air and shouting out the cries of triumphant warriors. Each rower deserves their moment, not only the winners. They all demonstrate strength, stamina, skill, and team spirit, in a way that is never aggressive and always good-natured.

It always feels special to share the moment with them. To experience this is reason enough to attend the Siem Reap Water Festival.

Halloween in Siem Reap – Join in at the Drag Bars and Expat Pubs

Celebrating Halloween in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

As it’s Halloween tomorrow night we thought we’d share some images from Halloween in Siem Reap last year. Whether you like Halloween or not, participating in festivals and events or celebrating holidays when you travel is a fantastic way to meet locals.

First, a confession: we’ve never been into Halloween and never participated until last year. We’re Australian and Halloween wasn’t part of our culture or tradition growing up. When people started to throw Halloween parties in Australia and kids started trick or treating our inclination was to go out to dinner or stay in and refuse to open the door. The idea was so foreign and we’d had enough of American cultural imperialism.

Don’t get me wrong, I loved to dress up and we had a reputation for throwing memorable costume parties when we lived in Sydney in the late 1980s and ’90s, from our Period Party (not what you’re thinking – people came in an outfit from their favourite historical period) to a (surprise) super-hero themed party I threw Terence for a birthday.

Our tradition, upbringing and beliefs aside, Halloween just never appealed. We were filmmakers when we were younger and I taught film for many years, but horror films, scary movies, and B-grade monster flicks were my least favourite genres. But that’s changed since we moved to Siem Reap!

Halloween in Siem Reap – Dress Up and Join in at the Drag Bars and Expat Pubs

After we moved overseas in 1998, however, we started to see holidays, festivals and celebrations that weren’t necessarily part of our culture, very differently. We started seeing them as a way into other cultures.

As expats living in the United Arab Emirates for many years, we used to get excited when it was Diwali and our Indian neighbours in our Dubai apartment building hung fairy lights in their windows and placed illuminated candles around their welcome mats.

In Abu Dhabi, we delighted in the different traditions of the various Eids. Although we also got a bit teary when we saw goats and sheep tethered to light poles and a few days later saw our Muslim neighbours washing away the pools of blood.

Songkran in Thailand can be fun, providing you’re prepared. Pchum Ben ancestors festival in Cambodia is fascinating to observe, as are the New Year rituals at the pagodas and around Angkor. When we lived in Hoi An we always looked forward to the monthly full moon rituals.

If we arrive serendipitously in a place when a festival or holiday celebration is underway, as we have everywhere from Rio de Janeiro to PerpignanSardinia to San Miguel de Allende, we’ll join in as participants or observers as they provide a fantastic way to not only get an insight into a culture but also to connect with locals.

On Halloween in Siem Reap last year, we headed out to see what was happening and were surprised to see that there were Halloween parties everywhere. Pub Street and the surrounding alleys were full of revellers in fancy dress, masquerading as everything from the Egyptian King Tut (Charlie, owner of local bar, Charlie’s) to countless zombies, witches, ghouls, and gremlins. And somewhat bewildering, nurses and maids. Right.

It wasn’t only locals and expats who dressed up either – surprisingly there were also a lot of backpackers in costume. Had they brought something with them or improvised I wondered. They seemed to be the ones who went as nurses and maids.

The best party was at beloved LGBT spot, Linga Bar, one of Siem Reap’s best bars, where the usual drag show was Halloween themed and, as you can see from the gallery of images above, was indeed, very very scary. We made friends with locals we hadn’t known that night, and we also befriended some tourists watching the show.

There’s something about the positive spirit and joyous mood of a festival or celebration such as Halloween that brings people together and makes people more open to conversation and camaraderie in a way that an ordinary night out on the town wouldn’t.

Sadly, the old Linga Bar, which had a reputation for throwing the best parties for Halloween in Siem Reap has gone. It’s moved across the lane to Hotel Be and its new incarnation is an understated little lobby bar.

Where to experience Halloween in Siem Reap

  • Heritage Suites is having a pre-Halloween Masquerade party (7-10pm) as part of their Thursday Jazz nights.
  • On Friday night, head to Siem Reap’s bars, cafes, restaurants and pubs in the Old Market area and Pub Street.
  • Backpackers, younger travellers and big drinkers will join the Zombie Apocalypse Pub Crawl, which begins at 7pm at X Bar.
  • If you’re missing Linga Bar get along to The Station Wine Bar, which is holding a Halloween themed ladyboy show.
  • The more laidback vibe of lovely Asana bar, which is having a party, appeals more to me.

Happy Halloween!

Our Guide to the Arts and Architecture in Battambang in Cambodia

Our Guide to the Arts and Architecture in Battambang in Cambodia. Streets of Battambang, Cambodia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

There’s much to experience when it comes to the arts and architecture in Battambang in Cambodia. In recent years the charming colonial city has blossomed into an arts hub as graduates from its excellent arts school have collaborated to establish galleries and collectives and organise group shows and arts events. Battambang’s impressive architecture is everywhere. Boasting … Read more

Our Local Guide to Rio de Janeiro

Our Local Guide to Rio de Janeiro. Ipanema Beach, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Our local guide to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil’s sexy seaside city, covers the things that locals love to do, from sipping sucos to samba dancing. In this post we’ll share some of our favourite things to do in Rio. Our Local Guide to Rio de Janeiro Start with a suco The energy of Rio’s locals is … Read more