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Contemporary Catalan Cuisine, in Barcelona. Roca Moo. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Eating Out in Barcelona – Contemporary Catalan Cuisine

The contemporary Catalan cuisine scene in Barcelona makes the city one of the best food destinations in the world.

The dishes coming out of Barcelona’s kitchens are often wildly creative, yet utilise locally sourced ingredients with a nod to dishes of the past, reinterpreted with finer attention to detail, creativity, presentation, and contemporary cooking techniques. And surprisingly the cuisine is often very affordable – even in those restaurants that have Michelin stars, and especially if you go for lunch.

These often small restaurants with young chefs at the helm, have been labelled ‘bistronomic’ restaurants; ‘bistro’ for the influence of the traditional Catalan dishes that inform their menu, and ‘gastronomic’, referring to the avant-garde techniques used.

Call them what you will, but we are smitten by their inventiveness, the lack of pretence in the décor and the service, and the number of different dishes and flavours that a diner can sample at one sitting. They make a traditional three-course à la carte meal look decidedly old-fashioned.

As Jordi Artal from Cinc Sentits (one of the best of this breed of restaurant in our opinion) explained to us, “We took a-la-carte off the menu last year and, really, no-one seemed to care. Most guests order the degustation menu anyway.” You should do the same.

Any visitor to Barcelona who has an interest in food should make sure that they visit one of these contemporary Catalan cuisine restaurants and order the degustation menu. If you’re only here for a few days, do one of these restaurants for a ‘date night’, but be warned you’ll be staring at the plates with lust rather than longingly into your partners eyes!

Once again these are restaurants that we’ve visited personally. This is no guidebook, folks.

Our Favourite Contemporary Catalan Cuisine Restaurants in Barcelona

Cinc Sentits

Why? A gifted chef, a great sommelier, and welcoming maître d‘, it’s bistronomic at its best in a warm, but modern space.
Terence says: Jordi Artal is a true culinary talent and despite no formal training as a chef, has a well-deserved Michelin star for his creative contemporary Catalan cuisine. I’m jealous and his food is so good it makes me weep. These two things may be related.
Lara says:
It’s one of the few restaurants we’ve returned to and not been disappointed on subsequent visits; the creativity and quality are consistently brilliant and pleasantly surprising.
Star plate: The only thing that isn’t a seasonal dish is the ‘Grand Cru’ Chocolate! Pray it’s on the menu.
Address: Aribau 58, L’Eixample, http://www.cincsentits.com/

Alkimia

Why? Often crazily creative, boundary- and genre-pushing cuisine, served up in a spare, white space.
Terence says: Not all dishes worked for me but it was never less than fascinating. The Asian twist in the middle of the degustation menu was genius.
Lara says:
After Cinc Sentits, this is my favorite restaurant in Barcelona; the service was easily as warm and friendly and although the dishes weren’t as consistently exemplary the flavour combinations were sometimes even more dazzling.
Star plate: Pickled oysters with glazed cheek and spinach sauté.
Address: Industria 79, Gràcia, www.alkimia.cat

Hisop

Why? This is a favourite of many Barcelona chefs for the fact that it’s incredibly creative but still not crazily priced.
Terence says: Staff changes since we visited last summer have affected the service (for the worse), but not the creativity of the chef, that’s for sure! Expect the unexpected.
Lara says: Last time we ate here I left thinking this was Barcelona’s best restaurant, but last week I was disappointed by the service, and only 80% of dishes excited me. Still, that’s a lot more than most.
Star plate: The scallop with truffle, watercress and rucola sauce.
Address: Passatge Marimon 9, Sarrià-Sant Gervasi, www.hisop.com

Moo*

Why? Haute cuisine by the famous Roca brothers in an environment that visitors will warm to, but with unexpected flavours and aromas, alongside a brilliant matching wine list.
Terence says: Simply a flawless experience, despite being located behind the lobby of the hotel. Loved the wine pairing – some special wines on the list.
Lara says: The food and service were impeccable, but I actually like the busy off-lobby location; it reminds me of Dubai. Very few European hotel lobbies can match the buzzy atmosphere of a Dubai lobby.
Star plate: Golden egg. Don’t ask, just make sure it’s on the menu.
Address: Hotel Omm, Rossello 265, L’Eixample, http://www.hotelomm.es/
* Since our visit the restaurant has had a refurb and been renamed Roca Moo  – see photo above.

Gaig

Why? Carlos Gaig is legendary in Barcelona and this restaurant expresses his haute cuisine to a tee.
Terence says: Probably the most ‘old-fashioned’ of the restaurants of this calibre we tried, but the flavours were phenomenal.
Lara says: Loved every dish, but equally memorable was the service of Antoine Schepper, now at Carlos Abellan’s Bravo 24 at the W Hotel I believe.
Star plate: Gratinéed cannelloni
Address: Aragó 214, corner Aribau, L’Eixample, www.restaurantgaig.com

Bohèmic

Why? At this cosy, faux-French bistro you definitely won’t hear the ubiquitious ‘ding’ of France’s beloved microwave! Chef Francesc is a one-off, and one of Barcelona’s best kept secrets.
Terence says: The night we went it was great food borne out of chaos. The assisting chef was ‘a hindrance’ according to Francesc and the ‘front-of-house’ was his charming family, his father (who left in a huff), mother and auntie, who were hugging everyone. Fascinating food, though!
Lara says:
We did wait a very long time for our food; Francesc needs to sort his staff out, as delightful as they are. But the food we enjoyed was imaginative and the dishes that missed were still hits because of the creativity and conceptual ideas behind them.
Star plate: ‘Oyster with pea soup’ – theatrical presentation and tastes are amazing.
Address: Carrer de Manso 42, Eixample Esquerra, 934 240 628 (no website)

Gresca

Why? Great reputation, with Rafa Peña considered to be one of the leaders of the ‘bistronomic’ movement.
Terence says: Even though we booked days in advance by phone, they didn’t tell us that you need to book the degustation menu in advance. Off-hand and occasionally rude staff soured some serviceable dishes. I’m still baffled, quite frankly.
Lara says: I wanted to like this place so much after all we’d read about it, and despite a couple of mildly interesting experiments, it is in no way in the same league as the other restaurants we’ve reviewed.
Star plate: The bill. The lunch menu, which we didn’t really want to order, is inexpensive.
Address: Provença 230, L’Eixample, www.gresca.net

Restaurant Coure

Why? Off-beat creativity that has Barcelona’s culinary luminaries both fascinated and frustrated by the cuisine.
Terence says: Only a couple of dishes really worked for me, but when they were good they were really quite extraordinary.
Lara says:
Agree. The dishes were either daring or confused, while the service was either caring or distinterested. Shame.
Star plate: Soup with green beans, razor clams, basil, mint and avocado. But they never sent us the menu as they promised…so no guarantees.
Address: Passatge Marimon 20, Sarrià-Sant Gervasi, Tel: 93 200 7532

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About Terence Carter

Terence Carter is an editorial food and travel photographer and infrequent travel writer with a love of photographing people, places and plates of food. After living in the Middle East for a dozen years, he settled in South-East Asia a dozen years ago with his wife, travel and food writer and sometime magazine editor Lara Dunston.

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Heatheronhertravels says

    April 2, 2010 at 1:33 pm

    I’d heard about these ultra inventive chefs in Barcelona – was it from you? Sounds like quite competitive gastronomy, each trying to do the other with new ideas.

    One plea – I wish you would put some of the photos of those delicious dishes next to the description of the food or restaurant, so I could visualise it at the same time as salivating over the description.

  2. Lara Dunston says

    April 4, 2010 at 6:36 am

    Hi Heather

    It may have been from us… we’ve been talking about them for a while… we absolutely adore what they’re doing, if that’s not obvious from above.

    If you pass the mouse cursor over the image, you’ll see which restaurant it’s from, but we will be experimenting with different ways of doing these reviews in future so we may try that one.

    Thanks for dropping by!

  3. Jen Laceda says

    October 14, 2010 at 8:30 am

    I say “hurrah for Canada!” – Canuck Jordi Artal should open a restaurant in Toronto. We are so starved for this kind of cuisine!!

  4. Terence Carter says

    October 14, 2010 at 9:45 am

    Hey Jen, I think he sees himself as more Catalan, but born in Canada…
    Unfortunately (for Toronto!) I don’t think he’s up for franchising or becoming a superstar other than just keeping his one Michelin star – a very well deserved one.
    A wonderful, thinking chef with an amazing eye for detail. If you go to BCN, you have to make him your first ‘serious’ restaurant stop.

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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

#christmasgiftideas #ediblegifts ##christmasfoodgifts #foodgifts #giftideas #homemadegifts #christmasfood #ediblegiftideas #hotsauce #chillisauce #sriracha #pickles #homemadepickles #recipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood 
#blackcat #blackcatsofinstagram #picoftheday 
#christmas #christmastree #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas #cambodia #siemreap
This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

#siemreap #cambodia #asia #travel #instatravel #traveldeeper #slowtravel #localtravel #experientialtravel #exploremore #neverstopexploring #goexplore #igtravel #angkorwat #angkor #temple #temples #angkorwithoutcrowds #unesco #unescoworldheritagesite #unescoworldheritage #archaeology #archaeologicalsite #traveladdict #beautifuldestinations #beautifulplaces #travelgram #wanderlust #picoftheday📷 #grantourismotravels.
Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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