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A Self Guided Stroll Around Sydney. Darling Harbour, Sydney, Australia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

A Self Guided Stroll Around Sydney

A self guided stroll around Sydney is something you should do the first day you arrive – and by around, we mean around the city’s perimeter. The city of Sydney may look large with its lofty towers and mini Manhattan-like skyline, but Sydney’s city centre or CBD is surprisingly compact.

It’s Sydney’s metropolitan area that is massive, 4,000 square kilometres in size, making it one of the biggest cities in the world in terms of area, equal to that of London and nearly double New York City, sprawling in all directions to the mountains, plains, rivers, and sea.

A Self Guided Stroll Around Sydney. Darling Harbour, Sydney, Australia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Drive the 90 minutes from the city centre or CBD (that’s Central Business District, as we Australians like to call our downtowns) to the Blue Mountains and you’ll feel its immensity – especially when stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic on Parramatta Road. You’re better off taking the train.

Yet the city centre, on the other hand, is compact enough for a self guided stroll around Sydney. The CBD is a manageable size. You can easily walk the diameter of the CBD as its widest point from Macquarie Street to Lime Street, a paltry 1.1kms, in 15 minutes, and do its length from Circular Quay to Central Station, just 2.7kms, in 35 minutes.

From Kings Cross, you can wander down to Darling Harbour, a similar distance, in the same amount of time. If you’re staying in Darlinghurst or The Cross, skip the underground and enjoy the fresh air.

Smooth wide footpaths, traffic lights most intersections, plenty of pedestrian-only zones in the forms of thoroughfares, parks, gardens, and plazas, and even-tempered locals (unlike, say, New York City; if you walk slower than Sydneysiders, they don’t get cranky) all make Sydney a very pleasant place to stroll.

A Self Guided Stroll Around Sydney. Darling Harbour, Sydney, Australia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Yet despite its small size and straightforward grid plan, Sydney is a city that visitors seem to easily get lost in, even with maps in their hands – I can’t tell you how many tourists I used to help each day in all the years I worked in the CBD. Sydney is also a city that visitors often seem at a loss as to how to negotiate and navigate, how to get their bearings, and where to start to explore, and I’m not sure why.

So this is what we recommend you do, before anything else: grab a map or use your iPhone and set aside a day simply to do a self guided stroll around Sydney.

If you start in the morning, take your time, make some detours along the way, and stop for lunch, you should finish in the late afternoon.

Our Self Guided Stroll Around Sydney

  1. From busy Circular Quay, where the ferries depart for various parts of Sydney Harbour, head toward Sydney Opera House, passing locals soaking up the sun at the cafés and bars, such as The Opera Bar, beneath the stunning edifice. Join them for a coffee to kickstart your stroll.
  2. Enter the Royal Botanic Gardens and walk along the waterfront path skirting Farm Cove, all the way to Mrs Macquarie’s Chair, around the peninsula, then hike up the hill by the harbourside Andrew (Boy) Charlton pool. Stop to admire the graceful old grey Woolloomooloo Finger Wharf, home to BLUE hotel and Otto Ristorante, one of Sydney’s best spots for lunch in the sun. Make a note to return.
  3. Push on up the hill and cross the bridge over the Cahill Expressway where you’ll see the imposing, sandstone Art Gallery of NSW. The permanent exhibition is free and the art museum is home to an impressive collection of Australian art, so pop in for a look.
  4. Cross the road and walk across the grassy Domain up to Shakespeare Place to the equally grand State Library of NSW. Pop in here for a peak too.
  5. Take a left and turn the corner and you’re on historic Macquarie Street, lined with handsome heritage buildings (on your left) that are some of Sydney’s oldest, including grand old Parliament House (where I once worked; dating to 1816, it was first part of the Rum Hospital), the majestic Sydney Hospital (dating to 1811), the elegant Sydney Mint (finished in 1816), and the stately Hyde Park Barracks, designed by convict architect, Francis Greenaway, Australia’s first notable architect who built many of Sydney’s most significant buildings.
  6. Cross the road and wander through lovely, leafy Hyde Park, Australia’s oldest public park, dating to 1878. Dip into St Mary’s Cathedral on the north side if church architecture interests you, otherwise, wander around the Archibald Fountain, and walk along the promenade shaded by enormous fig trees that is often used as a public outdoor gallery for art works, photography and installations. Cross Park Street, which splits the park in two, and continue to the poplar-lined pond, the Pool of Remembrance/Lake of Reflections, in front of the ANZAC War Memorial.
  7. Continue down Elizabeth Street, which borders the old garment district of Surry Hills on your left, to Belmont Park, in front of Central Station, and turn right into Hay Street and walk for a few blocks until you reach Paddy’s Market and Chinatown, perhaps the most animated and authentic Chinatown outside of Asia. If you’re hungry by now and you’re on budget lunch here (see this post for ideas), otherwise, turn right into Harbour Street in the direction of Darling Harbour.
  8. From here it’s a very pleasant stroll through Darling Harbour’s parks and gardens, along fountain promenades. First you’ll pass the Chinese Garden of Friendship, then the lawns of Tumbalong Park, where a lot of festivals and concerts are held. Once at the waterfront of Cockle Bay, which gets lively on weekends, stick to the left or western-side of the water, for the best views of the city skyline.
  9. Stroll by the white post-modern Harbourside complex (do not stop and eat here), past the Australian National Maritime Museum, in the direction of the reinvigorated neighbourhood of Pyrmont and The Star, a swish entertainment complex with casino, hotels (The Darling), apartments, theatres, shops, bars, and restaurants.
  10. If energized, you could cross the road and walk down the end of the wharf to Ballarat Park and continue to explore the revitalized wharf district of Pyrmont, or, if feeling a little lazy after lunch, backtrack to Darling Harbour and cross Pyrmont Bridge over Cockle Bay and hike up one block to Kent Street.
  11. Turn left onto Kent Street and walk all the way along this street until you reach one of the CBDs most charming and oldest areas, The Rocks, which starts soon after High Street when you come to a row of quaint old workers’ cottages.
  12. Once you see the lovely old sandstone Lord Nelson’s Brewery, call in for a cold beer, before continuing down the hill to Hickson Road. Make a note where you are: we strongly recommend returning to this neck of the ’hood and exploring more. If you turn right at the pub onto Argyle Street, you’ll see Sydney Observatory, from where you have lovely views of the Bridge.
  13. Hickson Road is essentially Sydney’s theatre district with the superb Sydney Theatre Company, Sydney Dance Company, Bangarra Dance Theatre, and the Australian Theatre for Young People all located here in renovated old wharf complexes, as well as a marina, shops, cafés, and restaurants.
  14. Continue your amble until the end of the point – there are stunning views to the West from a small wharf, which are wonderful at sunset – then stroll under the Sydney Harbour Bridge to Dawes Point Reserve for spectacular views of the Sydney Opera House.
  15. Stroll around the waterfront, in front of the recently reopened Park Hyatt Sydney and Sydney Cruise Ship Terminal for more stupendous views, passing the Museum of Contemporary Art (worth a look, and it also boasts a restaurant/bar) and First Fleet Park, until you reach your starting point, Circular Quay.

By now you’re probably exhausted after your self-guided stroll around Sydney, your feet are killing you, and you’re cursing us. Don’t worry, in true Aussie-style, everything will be fixed with a drink.

Stagger around to the Opera Bar, which you passed this morning, order a glass of wine, and watch the sunset. Weather not on your side? Head across to The Rocks for an icy beer at an old pub.

Get out that map again and mark up all the places that intrigued you. You can revisit them in coming days…

Support our Cambodia Cookbook & Culinary History Book with a donation or monthly pledge on Patreon.

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About Lara Dunston

A travel and food writer who has experienced over 70 countries and written for The Guardian, Australian Gourmet Traveller, Feast, Delicious, National Geographic Traveller, Conde Nast Traveller, Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia, DestinAsian, TIME, CNN, The Independent, The Telegraph, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, AFAR, Wanderlust, International Traveller, Get Lost, Four Seasons Magazine, Fah Thai, Sawasdee, and more, as well as authored more than 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, DK, Footprint, Rough Guides, Fodors, Thomas Cook, and AA Guides.

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About Grantourismo

Lara and Terence are an Australian-born, Southeast Asia-based travel and food writers and photographers who have authored scores of guidebooks, produced countless travel and food stories, are currently developing cookbooks and guidebooks, and host culinary tours and writing and photography retreats in Southeast Asia.
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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

#christmasgiftideas #ediblegifts ##christmasfoodgifts #foodgifts #giftideas #homemadegifts #christmasfood #ediblegiftideas #hotsauce #chillisauce #sriracha #pickles #homemadepickles #recipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood 
#blackcat #blackcatsofinstagram #picoftheday 
#christmas #christmastree #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas #cambodia #siemreap
This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

#siemreap #cambodia #asia #travel #instatravel #traveldeeper #slowtravel #localtravel #experientialtravel #exploremore #neverstopexploring #goexplore #igtravel #angkorwat #angkor #temple #temples #angkorwithoutcrowds #unesco #unescoworldheritagesite #unescoworldheritage #archaeology #archaeologicalsite #traveladdict #beautifuldestinations #beautifulplaces #travelgram #wanderlust #picoftheday📷 #grantourismotravels.
Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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