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A Local Guide to Budapest with Molly Hovorka, Budapest, Hungary. Local Knowledge: Molly from Budapest. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

A Local Guide to Budapest

When we first arrived in Budapest, we took to Twitter to get some local tips. One person really gave us the goods, as you can see below.

@mhovorka@gran_tourismo Have you visited the Holocaust Memorial Center? It’s relatively new, very interesting and well done.

@mhovorka @gran_tourismo But for fun, ice skating, or the most luscious hot chocolate and chestnut puree at the Szamos cukrazda in the Corinthia.

@mhovorka @gran_tourismo + some fun antique shops, cafes, & galleries wr the 5th meets the 13th on Falk Miksa & Balassi Balint. U can hit Drop Shop 2.

And the helpful ‘tweets’ kept coming from @mhovorka on Twitter in response to my call for Budapest tips from locals. Several emails quickly followed from Molly Hovorka about wine tasting dinners and, as we hadn’t yet bought a local SIM and our apartment didn’t have a phone, even a kind offer to call a restaurant and reserve a table for us that night.

During the course of our two-week stay in Budapest there’d be many more tweets and emails from Molly, bursting with brilliant tips as to things we should do and introductions to fascinating and helpful locals such as Dora Henger of Our Style (interview with Dora coming soon!).

There would even be an invitation to dinner. We met American expat Molly – a marketing and user experience consultant, and food and wine blogger at Baking in Stilettos – and her Budapest-born husband Zoli for dinner at the charming M Restaurant. And they even dragged along a friend, Gabor of Taste Hungary (the husband of food writer Carolyn, with whom we would do the Markets Walk).

It was a fun night of finding out that we had a lot of things in common and shared passions for food, wine and travel. The evening ended with a chilly walk home along Andrassy Avenue and offers from Molly and Zoli to show us the Napa if we were ever in California, their second home, at the same time.

For our Local Knowledge series, where we interview locals who have helped us get beneath the skin of a destination, we usually profile someone born in the place, yet in Budapest the most obvious person to interview was Molly. She was so terrific, we knew we couldn’t keep her all to ourselves.

A Local Guide to Budapest – an interview with Molly Hovorka

Q. So, what do you most love about your work?

A. I’m part of a high tech start-up, so I have the same intense, energetic, and fun vibe that I’m used to from working in Silicon Valley, which is something I didn’t expect to find in Hungary. Working with a Hungarian team gives me the chance to learn part of the culture that I wouldn’t necessarily get to know otherwise, and vice versa: I have the chance to change assumptions others have about my culture and share a different way of thinking. Also, even though the business language of the office is English, I can practice a little Hungarian and the guys teach me new words all the time.

Q. Why should people come to Budapest?

A. Budapest’s contrasts have always fascinated me. The city has a very rich, old culture and an incredibly sad past so it offers a lot of value to lovers of the arts, music, and history. You can see both its glory and its hard times on virtually every street. However, the city is not at all frozen in time; it’s also very dynamic and has a contemporary, edgy side too, along with fantastic nightlife. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve stood in line for gyros at 6/7am after a night of dancing, without even realizing how late it had gotten! I’ve been visiting the city for almost 11 years and have been living here for three, and I’m still discovering new layers.

Q. 3 ways to describe Budapest?

A. Evocative. Storied. Culturally rich.

Q. 3 ways to describe the people?

A. Laidback – people love to take their time over a cigarette, a glass of wine, a cup of coffee, a slice of cake. There’s seldom a sense of urgency about things.
Fun-loving – people here also love to party and dance till dawn. I’ve been to weddings where even the grandmothers are still dancing when the sun comes up.
Egyik szemem sír a masik nevet – this is a Hungarian phrase that means laughing with one eye and crying with the other. I think it sums up Hungarians perfectly. The people can be very melancholy, but they also have a great sense of humour.

Q. Your top recommendations for visitors?

A. Most visitors want to try at least one of the baths, but going to a Cinetrip bath party is something else altogether. Cinetrip brings together film, DJs, spectacle, and a party atmosphere.
Try to time your visit with one of the wine festivals, especially the Budapest International Wine Festival, which takes place early September in the castle. You can meet winemakers and taste wines from all over the country, try Hungarian food, listen to good music, and enjoy stellar views of the city.
Do a pub crawl of Budapest’s ‘ruin bars’, which are bars that have sprung up in abandoned apartment buildings and courtyards. They are all very funky, decorated with random recycled furniture and art, and each has its own distinct character.

Q. Best souvenir from Budapest?

A. If you are here on a Sunday, pick up something from either the WAMP or the Gouba design markets. The artists and designers sell jewellery, magnets, toys, crafts, clothes, and bags. Otherwise, a bottle of Unicum (a Hungarian herbal liqueur), a bottle of Tokaji wine, a bottle of palinka (schnapps), or a jar of eros pista, which is a fiery paprika paste that is delicious stirred into clear soups.

Q. Must-do eating experiences?

A. One of my favourite things to do with visitors is to take them on two back-to-back theme nights.
The first night is all about glamour, so we’ll start with a glass of Champagne at the Four Seasons, one of the most beautifully renovated buildings in the city. From there we’ll move on to one of the city’s top restaurants, perhaps Fausto’s, Nobu or Costes, and then finish the evening with another glass of bubbles at the Drop Shop or an artisanal cocktail at Boutiq bar, which makes the most fabulous drinks in the city by far.
On the second night I like to show off Budapest’s edgier side, so the night will start with a glass of palinka at the bar Csendes, which looks like it was decorated by your highly eccentric and somewhat crazy grandmother. Dinner will be at M Restaurant, notable for its décor – the walls are lined with butcher paper and all the features of the room are drawn on with black magic marker – and for its reliable Hungarian comfort food. Finally we’ll wind up at one of the ruin bars for a beer, another palinka, or a forralt bor (mulled wine) if the weather is cold. It’s a great way to see two distinct sides of the city.

Q. An essential thing to know before coming to Budapest?

A. Always have a valid ticket when using public transport to avoid being fined. The Kontroll (ticket checkers) are quite aggressive about inspecting tickets, and scam artists posting as the Kontroll are not unheard of. Buying individual tickets can be confusing; for example, one kind is only good for three stops, and you will need a different ticket if you switch from the subway to a bus, etc. If you are in town for a few days it’s easiest to just get a three-day or weeklong ticket. Public transportation is safe, reliable and excellent, though the buses have undeniably seen better days.

Q. Most important word to learn?

A. If you are a foodie, ‘finom‘, meaning delicious. Whether you’re eating in someone’s home or at a restaurant, this is the magic word for getting more information about a dish. People generally love sharing information about food at length.

Q. Any other advice?

A. Take the time to find out what’s going on in town. Caboodle.hu, and funzine.hu all have current listings in English. Compared to other cities, entertainment in Budapest is very affordable, especially the performing arts.

Support our Cambodia Cookbook & Culinary History Book with a donation or monthly pledge on Patreon.

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About Lara Dunston

A travel and food writer who has experienced over 70 countries and written for The Guardian, Australian Gourmet Traveller, Feast, Delicious, National Geographic Traveller, Conde Nast Traveller, Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia, DestinAsian, TIME, CNN, The Independent, The Telegraph, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, AFAR, Wanderlust, International Traveller, Get Lost, Four Seasons Magazine, Fah Thai, Sawasdee, and more, as well as authored more than 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, DK, Footprint, Rough Guides, Fodors, Thomas Cook, and AA Guides.

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Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check o Still looking for Christmas cooking inspo? Check out our seafood recipe collection, especially if you celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve with a fish focused meal in the Southern Italian tradition, transformed by Italian-Americans into the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or like Australians, who celebrate Christmas in the sweltering summer, feast on seafood for Christmas Day lunch, we’ve got lots of easy seafood recipes for you.

Our recipes include a classic prawn cocktail, blini with smoked salmon, a ceviche-style appetiser, and devilled eggs with caviar. We’ve also got recipes for fish soup, seafood pies and pastas, salmon tray bake, and crispy salmon with creamy mashed potatoes.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/seafood-recipes-for-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-menus/
(Link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas if you’re celebrating!! 

#christmas #christmasfood #seafood #fish #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #grantourismo #grantourismotravels #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you’re still looking for food inspo for Chris If you’re still looking for food inspo for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals, my smoked salmon ‘carpaccio’ recipe is one of dozens of recipes in this compilation of our best Christmas recipes (link below). 

The Christmas recipe compilation includes collections of our best Christmas breakfast recipes, best Christmas brunch recipes, best Christmas starter recipes, best Christmas cocktails, best Christmas dessert recipes, and homemade edible Christmas gifts and more.

My smoked salmon carpaccio recipe makes an easy elegant appetiser that’s made in minutes. If you’re having guests over, you can make the dish ahead by assembling the salmon, capers and pickled onions, and refrigerate it, then pour on the dressing just before serving. 

Provide toasted baguette slices and bowls of additional capers, pickles and dressing, so guests can customise their carpaccio. And open the bubbly!

You’ll find that recipe and many more Christmas recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/best-christmas-recipes/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Merry Christmas!! X

#christmas #christmasfood #recipes #christmasrecipes #foodstagram #salmon #smokedsalmon #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood #picoftheday #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels 
#xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas
If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I sh If you haven’t visited our site in a while, I shared a collection of recipes for homemade edible Christmas gifts — for condiments, hot sauces, chilli oils, a whole array of pickles, spice blends, chilli salt, furakake seasoning, and spicy snacks, such as our Cambodian and Vietnamese roasted peanuts. 

I love giving homemade edibles as gifts as much as I love receiving them. Who wouldn’t appreciate jars filled with their favourite chilli oils, hot sauces, piquant pickles, and spicy peanuts that loved-ones have taken the time to make? 

Aside from the gesture and affordability of gifting homemade edibles, you’re minimising waste. You can use recycled jars or if buying new mason jars or clip-top Kilner jars, you know they’ll get repurposed.

No need for wrapping, just attach some Christmas baubles or tinsel to the lid. I used squares of Cambodian kramas (cotton scarves), which can be repurposed as napkins or drink coasters, and tied a ribbon or two around the lids, and attached last year’s Christmas tree decorations to some.

You’ll find the recipes here: https://grantourismotravels.com/homemade-edible-christmas-gifts/ (link in bio if you’re seeing this on IG)

Yes, that’s Pepper... every time there’s a camera around... 

#christmasgiftideas #ediblegifts ##christmasfoodgifts #foodgifts #giftideas #homemadegifts #christmasfood #ediblegiftideas #hotsauce #chillisauce #sriracha #pickles #homemadepickles #recipes #foodstagram #foodblogger #food #foodlover #igfood 
#blackcat #blackcatsofinstagram #picoftheday 
#christmas #christmastree #xmas #merrychristmas #happychristmas #cambodia #siemreap
This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’ This crab omelette is a decadent eggs dish that’s perfect if you’re just back from the fish markets armed with luxurious fresh crab meat. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, and very, very moreish.

Our crab omelette recipe was one of our 22 most popular egg recipes of 2022 on our website Grantourismo and it’s no surprise. It’s appeared more times than any other egg recipes on our annual round-ups of most popular recipes since Terence launched Weekend Eggs when we launched Grantourismo in 2010.

If you’re an eggs lover, do check out the recipe collection. It includes egg recipes from right around the world, from recipes for classic kopitiam eggs from Singapore and Malaysia and egg curries from India and Myanmar to all kinds of egg recipes from Thailand, Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, USA, Australia, UK, and Ireland.

And do browse our Weekend Eggs archives for further eggspiration (sorry). We have hundreds of egg recipes from the 13 year-old series of recipes for quintessential egg dishes from around the world, which we started on our 2010 year-long global grand tour focused on slow, local and experiential travel. 

We’re hoping 2023 will be the year we can finally publish the Weekend Eggs cookbook we’ve talked about for years based on that series. After we can find a publisher for the Cambodia cookbook of course... :( 

Recipe collection here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio):
https://grantourismotravels.com/22-most-popular-egg-recipes-of-2022-from-weekend-eggs/

If you cook the recipe and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either in the comments at the end of the recipe or share a pic with us here.

#recipe #recipes #eggs #eggslover #breakfasteggs #WeekendEggs #egg #breakfast #brunch #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #lookingforapublisher #writingacookbook  #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angko I’m late to share this, but a few days ago Angkor Archaeological Park, home to stupendous Angkor Wat, pictured, celebrated 30 years of its UNESCO World Heritage listing. 

That’s as good an excuse as any to put this magnificent, sprawling archaeological site on your travel list this year.

While riverside Siem Reap, your base for exploring Angkor is bustling once more, there are still nowhere near the visitors of the last busy high season months of December-January 2018-2019 when there were 290,000 visitors. 

Last month there were just 55,000 visitors and December feels a little quieter. A tour guide friend said there were about 150 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise a few days ago.

If you’re looking for tips to visiting Angkor, Siem Reap and Cambodia, just ask us a question in the comments below or check Grantourismo as we’ve got loads of info on our site. Click through to the link in the bio and explore our Cambodia guide or search for ‘Angkor’. 

And please do let us know if you’re coming to Siem Reap. We’d love to see you here x

#siemreap #cambodia #asia #travel #instatravel #traveldeeper #slowtravel #localtravel #experientialtravel #exploremore #neverstopexploring #goexplore #igtravel #angkorwat #angkor #temple #temples #angkorwithoutcrowds #unesco #unescoworldheritagesite #unescoworldheritage #archaeology #archaeologicalsite #traveladdict #beautifuldestinations #beautifulplaces #travelgram #wanderlust #picoftheday📷 #grantourismotravels.
Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky Our soy ginger chicken recipe will make you sticky, flavourful and succulent chicken thighs that are fantastic with steamed rice, Chinese greens or a salad, such as a Southeast Asian slaw. 

The chicken can be marinated for up to 24 hours before cooking, which ensures it’s packed with flavour, then it can be cooked on a barbecue or in a pan.

Terence’s soy ginger chicken recipe is one of our favourite recipes for a quick and easy meal. I love the sound of the sizzling thighs in the pan, and the warming aromas wafting through the apartment. 

It’s amazing how such flavourful juicy chicken thighs come from such a quick and easy recipe.

Recipe here (and proper link to Grantourismo in our bio): https://grantourismotravels.com/soy-ginger-chicken-recipe/

If you cook it and enjoy it please let us know — we love to hear from you — either here or in the comments at the end of the recipe on the site or share a pic with us x 

#recipe #recipes #chicken #soygingerchicken #asianfood #southeastasianfood #igfood #igfoodie #cooking #cookingtime #recipe #recipes #comfortfood #foodblog #food #foodstagram #healthyfood #instafood #healthy #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #recipedeveloper #writingacookbook #grantourismo #grantourismotravels
Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re mak Who can guess the ingredients and what we’re making with my market haul from Psar Samaki in Siem Reap — all for a whopping 10,000 riel (US$2.50)?! 

Birds-eye chillies thrown in for free! They were on my list but the seller I spent most at (5,000 riel!) scooped up a handful and slipped them into my bag. She was my last stop and knew what I was making.

My Khmer is poor, even after all our years in Cambodia, as I don’t learn languages with the ease I did in my 20s, plus I’m mentally exhausted after researching and writing all day. I have a better vocabulary of Old and Middle Khmer than modern Khmer from studying the ancient inscriptions for the Cambodian culinary history component of our cookbook I’m writing.

So when one seller totalled my purchases I thought she said 5,000 riel but she handed back 4,500 riel! The sum total of two huge bunches of herbs and kaffir lime leaves was 500 riel.

Tip: if visiting Siem Reap, use Khmer riel for local shopping. We’ve mainly used riel since the pandemic started— rarely use US$ now as market sellers quote prices in riels, as do local shops and bakeries, and I tip tuk tuk drivers in riels. I find prices quoted in riels are lower.

Psar Samaki is cheaper than Psar Leu, which is cheaper than Psar Chas, as it’s a wholesale market, which means the produce is fresher. I see veggies arriving, piled high in the back of vehicles, with dirt still on them — as I did on this trip. 

The scent of a mountain of incredibly aromatic pineapples offloaded from the back of a dusty ute was so heady they smelt like they’d just been cut. More exotic European style veggies arrive by big trucks in boxes labelled in Vietnamese (from Dalat) and Mandarin (from China), such as beautiful snow-white cauliflower I spotted.

Note: the freshest produce is sold on the dirt road at the back of the market.

#cambodia #siemreap #foodwriter #foodblogger #foodphotography #igfood #foodstagram #instafood #instafoodie #foodie #instadaily #picoftheday #market #siemreapmarket #psarsamaki #marketfresh #vegetables #healthyfood #marketshopping #traveltips #foodtravel #culinarytravel #localtravel #cooking #cookingtime #curry #homemade #currypaste #grantourismotravels
My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recip My Vietnamese-ish meatballs and rice noodles recipe makes tender meatballs doused in a delightfully tangy-sweet sauce, sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, with carrot-daikon, crunchy cucumber and fragrant herbs. 

The dish is inspired by bún chả, a Hanoi specialty, but it’s not bún chả. No matter what Google or food bloggers tell you. Names are important, especially when cooking and writing about cuisines not our own.

This is an authentic bún chả recipe:  https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-bun-cha-recipe/ You’ll need to get the outdoor BBQ/grill going to do proper smoky bún chả meat patties (not meatballs).

My meatball noodle bowl is perhaps more closely related to dishes such as a Central Vietnam cousin bún thịt nướng (pork skewers on rice noodles in a bowl) and a Southern relation bún bò Nam Bộ (beef atop rice noodles, sprinkled with fried shallots (Nam Bộ=Southern Vietnam) though neither include meatballs. 

Xíu mại= meatballs although they’re different in flavour to mine, which taste more like bún chả patties. Xíu mại remind me of Southern Italian meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, home to millions of Khmer, there’s bánh tằm xíu mại. Bánh tằm=silk worm noodles. They’re topped with meatballs, cucumber, daikon, carrot, fresh herbs, crispy fried onions. Difference: cold noodles doused in a sauce of coconut cream and fish sauce. 

Remove the meatballs, add chopped fried spring rolls and it’s Cambodia’s banh sung, which is a rice noodle salad similar to Vietnam’s bún chả giò :) 

Recipe here: (link in bio) https://grantourismotravels.com/vietnamese-meatballs-and-rice-noodles-recipe/

For more on these culinary connections you’ll have to wait for our Cambodian cookbook and culinary history. In a hurry to know? Come support the project on Patreon. (link in bio)

#recipe #recipes #vietnamesefood #cambodianfood #asianfood #southeastasianfood #ricenoodles #rice #noodlebowl #meatballs #igfood #igfoodie #foodblog #food #foodstagram #instafood  #instafoodie #foodie #foodies #foodlover #foodpics #foodporn #foodphotography #foodwriter #foodblogger #writingacookbook #writingacambodiancookbook #patreon #patreoncreator #grantourismo
It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour It is pure coincidence that Pepper’s eye colour matches the furnishings of our rented apartment. So, no, I did not colour-coordinate the interiors to match our cat’s eyes. 

I keep getting DMs from pet clothing brands wanting to “partner” with Pepper and send her free cat clothes and cat accessories. Although she did wear a kerchief for a few years in her more adventurous fashion-forward teenage years, I cannot see this cat in clothes now, can you? 

#pepper #blackcat #blackcats #blackcatsofinstagram #blackcatsrule #blackcatsmatter #cat #cats #catsofinstagram #catstagram #catlover #catlovers #catlove #catoftheday #catphoto #catpic #catpics #cambodiancat #cambodiancatsofinstagram #catlife #catloversclub #catoftheday #catgram #catstagram #cats_of_instagram #catphotography #catsofig #catsoftheworld #catsofinsta #cats🐱 #siemreap #cambodia

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