Price Check: What Things Cost Around the World

2018-11-26T16:21:29+07:00By |

Aimed at helping travellers staying in holiday rentals and settling into a place for a while, Price Check is a series of posts in which we reported every two weeks on the prices of groceries (no, not only beer) at each destination we stayed on our yearlong grand tour. This post is a comparison of …

A Year of Rhythm and Beats: Sounds and Music from a Grand Tour

2018-05-10T20:23:05+07:00By |

I grew up in a family where everyone played at least two or three musical instruments. That’s not a boast. I had to listen to musical scales being played on piano every day during my childhood. For three hours. Every day. I placed my fingers in my ears while cello, violin and viola practice was taking …

My Year in the Kitchen: Favourite Dishes From Around the Globe

2018-12-20T23:07:16+07:00By |

One of the things we love most about holiday rentals over hotels is that we're able to cook and eat 'at home'. Because unless you’re Keith Floyd (one of my inspirations as a wannabe cook in my 20s), you can’t just rock up to a hotel kitchen and whip something up. You can, however, do …

Buying a Saz or Baglama in Istanbul, Turkey

2015-08-25T12:26:18+07:00By |

I’ve played stringed musical instruments since I was old enough to hold a guitar. Almost everyone in my family studied music theory, piano, and at least one other stringed instrument. When we moved to the Middle East in 1998, I took a few of my favourite instruments with me. (Note from Editor (Lara): six freaking …

From Saz to Jazz, a Guide to Istanbul’s Live Music Scene

2018-11-26T11:52:40+07:00By |

We’ve spent a lot of time during our two weeks in Istanbul simply ambling around the backstreets of Beyoğlu, exploring our neighbourhood. We get a kick out of taking in the atmosphere and seeing how people live their lives, and if we stumble across a venue playing music we like, that’s a bonus. And there …

Eating Out in Istanbul – From Lively Local Meyhanes to Inventive Restaurants

2018-05-12T19:35:55+07:00By |

Eating out in Istanbul is a real delight, with some of the most delicious food you'll find at this fascinating crossroads between Europe and the Middle East. Expect everything from inventive and elegant fine dining restaurants, such as Mikla, to buzzy breakfast cafes, neon-lit pide salons, and lively meyhanes. Istanbul may not have a reputation as a …

Istanbul Take-Homes: a Guide to Shopping the Grand Bazaar

2018-11-26T11:00:54+07:00By |

Istanbul's Grand Bazaar, or Kapalı Çarşı in Turkish, at Beyazit, near Sultanahmet, is undoubtedly touristy, so it’s going to have to be my guilty pleasure on this ‘living like locals’ grand tour of ours. Because as much as I love the brilliant shops at Beyoğlu, nothing beats shopping the Grand Bazaar. Why Go to the …

Scrambled Eggs with Sucuk Sausage Recipe

2019-06-13T13:10:26+07:00By |

In my Istanbul edition of The Dish, I shared my recipe for lamb chops with bulgur that I made here in the tiny kitchen of our apartment near Taksim Square. Today I'm doing scrambled eggs with sucuk sausage. So it's not a traditional Turkish dish, but it's Turkish-inspired. When I made the lamb chops with bulgur, …

Spicy Turkish Lamb Chops with Bulgur Recipe

2019-05-28T10:53:16+07:00By |

A few years ago we spent a lot of time in Turkey. Not running around doing the tourist trail — we’d done that years before — but settling in for a couple of months. We spent four weeks at our friends' lovely holiday house in Kaş on the Mediterranean coast, and we stayed in a restored Ottoman-era …

Local Knowledge: Ayşe from Istanbul

2018-11-26T11:54:14+07:00By |

In every place we’ve stayed so far this year, we’ve interviewed someone for our Local Knowledge series who we thought would offer great local insight and a special perspective on the place. In Istanbul, we sought insider tips from designer Ayşe Bali. Often our Local Knowledge candidates have been people we’ve met in the place who have helped …

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