The artistic, cultural and spiritual heart of Bali for centuries, Ubud is serenely located up in the hills in lush jungle, surrounded by rice-paddies. Lined with galleries, cafés and craft shops, its narrow streets are a delight to wander. There’s no denying that Ubud has become increasingly commercial and its economy is more tourist-focused than ever. … Read more
Life in Bali is imbued with rituals – religious, spiritual and social; complicated and simple – from consulting the Balinese calendar to the daily offerings of incense and flowers made at Hindu and Buddhist temples. Which is why I learnt the art of making offerings in Ubud Every afternoon here at our home in Tumbak Bayuh, … Read more
These Balinese saté and ayam betutu recipes make classic barbecued Balinese skewers and a traditional dish of chicken or duck (bebek betutu) that is marinated, wrapped in a banana leaf, and steamed. Both require the basa gede Balinese sauce recipe in the last post. In my last post from Indonesia’s Hindu island Bali, I gave you a basa … Read more
Basa gede or Balinese sauce is a classic Balinese spice paste in the tradition of Asian pastes such as Thai curry paste and Cambodian kroeung, commonly used for saté and duck and chicken betutu. While available commercially, it’s best fresh from the mortar and pestle. Here’s an authentic recipe for basa gede or Balinese sauce, courtesy of … Read more
The gamelan and its music had always intrigued me as a musician. I’ve always found the Indonesian ensemble of metallophones, xylophones, gongs, and various other instruments wonderful to listen to, but I had little idea as to how the hell they made that enchanting noise. Was there a score that the gamelan orchestra followed, I wondered. Were there … Read more