“Your house is very big!” our driver said with a grin from ear to ear, as he unloaded our bags in the rain, and the gigantic wooden door swung open and Susan, the friendly tanned concierge came out to greet us. Despite the warning, we didn’t quite understand the immensity of Casa Elsa, our latest ‘home away from home’ in Manuel Antonio on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica.
It didn’t really click. It might have been the early start to the day, waking at 4am for our early flight from Mexico City to Miami. It might have been the hilarious excuse by American Airlines that crew were late for the flight because they didn’t adjust their clocks. It could certainly have been having to collect our bags in Miami and receive the customary grilling from US immigration before our flight to San Jose. Perhaps it was the three-hour car ride in the driving rain, and partly in the dark, from San Jose to Manuel Antonio, with a supermarket stop at Jaco for a big grocery shop along the way that made it so surreal.
Even as we spotted Carlos, the villa’s full-time caretaker-cum-security guard, waiting patiently at the entrance level with our luggage, we didn’t appreciate the size of our new home. “He’s waiting until you choose your bedroom,” Susan said. And when she had finished her tour of the house, we finally understand why.
Casa Elsa is colossal. It’s also very special and a touch surreal. An alfresco house with very few walls, there are three sprawling levels with different views of the jungle it backs onto from each one.
From the top floor, which is level with the road, there’s an enormous open kitchen, brilliantly equipped with excellent appliances and plenty of dinner settings and glasses and everything you could want for entertaining, including a huge fridge with icemaker and an ingenious little door that you can grab a bottle of wine from without actually opening the fridge.
There’s a breakfast island and a wet and dry bar on one side of the infinity pool, and adjoining the kitchen is a big patio for barbecues and sunbathing, and a table and chairs and plenty of sun beds. On the other side of the kitchen is a huge dining area with a table that seats eight.
This whole floor is completely open – the only wall that exists is that between the interior and the road – and the views stretch across the top of the luxuriant jungle canopy and out to sea and the lush rocky islands off Manuel Antonio beach.
On the next level down, which again is mostly open to the elements, there is a large terrace and living area with a big television and a massive DVD collection that we planned to test out but never got around to – the jungle views and antics of our daily visitors were entertainment enough.
There are two spacious bedrooms on this level, each with enormous bathrooms with rain showers, sofas, plenty of cupboard space, and balconies looking onto the jungle. From this level, the views take you into the tops of trees just beneath the canopy.
And on the level beneath this one are two more massive bedrooms with bathrooms, including the master bedroom, which has a sofa and table and chairs and Jacuzzi. The other bedroom has a private balcony with chairs and table looking onto the jungle. In between the two rooms is another living space and the vistas from here look deep into the heart of the vegetation and the jungle floor.
There is also a laundry, the domain of the maid, Carlo’s mother, and another floor below with an apartment where Carlos lives. Once we chose our room, on the middle level, and poor Carlos lugged our bags down the stairs, we didn’t even venture again to the floor below, except to take photos. With so much space and privacy, the villa would be wonderful for a big family or groups of friends.
An added bonus is Susan, the villa concierge, who is a phone call away to do anything and everything from make restaurant reservations to book tours – especially fabulous in a place where there is so much to see and do. She is a treasure.
What is also fantastic for stay-at-home parents looking for a well-earned break from cleaning is the daily maid service that’s provided. If you speak Spanish, the contact also provides an opportunity to connect with locals. What we love about holiday rentals, however, is the privacy offered compared to hotels and personally we found the presence of staff for half a day a little exasperating, as might other writers. Big groups would probably love having the staff on hand – as they would the opportunity to hire a chef to cook, an option many groups take. However, honeymooners or couples looking for romance might also not appreciate the extra company, but fortunately you can negotiate how often you want the property cleaned.
There were some other frequent callers we didn’t mind dropping by however, and this included the sleeping sloth who lived in an adjoining tree, an array of bird life, and families of friendly squirrel monkeys and white-faced capuchin monkeys, who seemed to take turns dropping by each day, trooping from one side of the villa across to the other, through our dining area and kitchen and along the edge of the infinity pool.
We would see them coming… on a still day, the trees in the distance would start to move, and we knew they were on their way; minutes later we would see them swinging between trees, leaping from one branch down to another. Or we would simply hear that they had arrived, whether from the rustle of the trees or the noise of them clambering across our roof and climbing down onto the balcony rails.
We heard a howler monkey too a couple of times. Once he woke us in the middle of the night, his howls echoing so loudly through the house we were certain he must have been in the kitchen. Maybe he was fixing himself a banana sandwich.
The regularity of the visits by our friendly monkeys were so frequent, their timing like clockwork, that we were certain that Susan must have worked some magic to arrange them. When her husband dropped us off one day, after lunch and a visit to the fish markets, he said: “I think you might get a visit by the howler monkey today.” At the time we hadn’t had a visit from the big guy yet, but sure enough that was the afternoon he came…
While nature might provide the jungle floor show, this property has to be the most unique way to experience what nature has to offer in Manuel Antonio.
10 comments
2 pings
Anna Johnston says:
September 27, 2010 at 6:56 pm (UTC 10 )
Uuggghhh! I practically have to have a stiff drink before I read your awesome posts just to keep my jealousy at bay
This house sounds divine & something truly wonderful to experience. Would love to see more images, will go looking after finishing this post. What a great year you two are having huh.
Terence Carter says:
September 27, 2010 at 7:17 pm (UTC 10 )
Hi Anna, the place was actually hard to photograph because the light was coming right across the open plan rooms in the morning and in the afternoon there were generally storms. If you follow the HomeAway link in the story there are more photos on their website. It’s probably the most intriguing property so far this year and an experience we won’t forget in a hurry! The kitchen, by the way, probably the best equipped so far in terms of pots/pans, a great stove/oven and a super fridge. Loved it.
Thanks for your comment!
Sarah Chambers says:
September 28, 2010 at 3:44 am (UTC 10 )
I think this is our favourite property so far too. Absolutely spectacular and takes some beating! I love these ‘outside-in’ style houses. There are a few fabulous ones in Thailand too, but I think this one is still my favourite, the daily little guests, lush surroundings and striking interior just swing it!
Lara Dunston says:
September 30, 2010 at 3:32 pm (UTC 10 )
Yes, it was pretty special. We really felt as if we were living in the jungle! The proximity to the trees and monkeys was amazing. The only downside was when it rained!!! We got wet working at that dining table. A good excuse to put the laptops away and enjoy the elements.
Brendan van Son says:
September 28, 2010 at 6:53 am (UTC 10 )
This post really makes me miss Costa Rica… I will be back someday though!!!
Terence Carter says:
September 28, 2010 at 7:41 am (UTC 10 )
Thanks for your comment, for nature lovers it’s a must-do country.
Liked your post on Manuel Antonio National Park – we have one coming up soon!
sue nelson says:
October 7, 2010 at 6:41 am (UTC 10 )
Yes, Casa Elsa is a special place. Each time we entered through the huge front door we truly became guests in the rain forest. Speedy, the sloth in the creaky tree (actually several trees grown together), was often there, the monkeys performed their palm-to-palm and high-railing feats, and sometimes on very hot days capuchins paused to dangle a leg or two in the pool with me. We prepared simple meals with local produce from Quepos, caught up on our reading, languished in the pool, listened to the howlers, and totally relaxed in our comfortably elegant retreat. Yes, Casa Elsa is a VERY special place.
jorge Mojica says:
February 27, 2011 at 5:26 pm (UTC 10 )
Hello to all, I was the architect of Casa Elsa. I feel so happy, has been a great surprise to me find this site with all this comments about Casa Elsa and beautiful pictures showing Titis monkeys walking inside the house and playing on the pool (they enjoy the house more than owner I guess) Lara and Terence, have a good travel wherever you are now! Cheers from Costa Rica, Pura Vida!!!
Terence Carter says:
February 27, 2011 at 8:09 pm (UTC 10 )
Greetings Jorge,
You designed a beautiful, thought-provoking house – it was an unforgettable stay. Thank you!
Terence Carter says:
February 27, 2011 at 8:09 pm (UTC 10 )
Greetings Jorge,
You designed a beautiful, thought-provoking house – it was an unforgettable stay. Thank you!
A round the world adventure. | Context Travel Blog says:
January 5, 2011 at 2:32 am (UTC 10 )
[...] can be hard to beat, however, we’ve also had some very luxurious holiday rentals in Bali and Costa Rica that came with staff! For romance and privacy, I’m torn. We’ve had some brilliant stays in some [...]
Home vs. Hotel (Part II) « The World is Calling says:
February 22, 2011 at 5:32 pm (UTC 10 )
[...] destination, where you can rent houses on the beach or overlooking the jungle and have visits by monkeys every day! There are plenty of activities, from walks through the national park and wildlife [...]