Fremantle for Families – How to Spend a Day in Fremantle with the Family

Fremantle for Families – How to Spend a Day in Fremantle with the Family. Fremantle, Perth, Western Australia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Fremantle for families? For many, Fremantle is a destination for grown-ups with its old corner pubs, backstreet wine bars and buzzy cafés. It’s also a brilliant spot for families, with a lively weekend market, compelling museums, beachside parks, and a busy boat harbour.

Fremantle was an obvious choice for a family day out when my sister and niece joined us at our Adina apartment in Perth recently. Although it gave us a chance to develop a Fremantle for families guide for our readers with kids and as we discovered on the day, it’s a fantastic destination for families.

‘Freo’, as the locals call it, was once a separate settlement to Perth, yet the sprawling suburbs long ago absorbed the historic port into the greater metropolitan area. Perth’s outer suburbs now extend so far south that Fremantle, almost 20kms from the Perth CBD, feels like an inner-city neighbourhood.

We’ve spent a lot of time in Freo over the years, renting apartments for several months at a time while we wrote up our Lonely Planet Perth and Western Australia guidebooks. My sister and her children would meet us at The Esplanade Park where we’d catch up as we watched the kids play before ambling down to the Boat Harbour for fish and chips.

Here’s our guide to Fremantle for families.

Our Guide to Fremantle for Families

Getting there by boat is half the fun

One of the best things about Fremantle for families is getting there. Fremantle lies at the mouth of the Swan River, so while you can take the train there from Perth’s CBD, it’s much more fun to arrive by boat. Captain Cook Cruises’ The Fremantle Explorer (A$38 adult, $21 child, $95 family) departs Barrack Street Jetty at 9.45am, 11.30am, and 2.15pm and returns to Perth at 12.45pm and 3.45pm. They offer complimentary tea and coffee on all cruises and WA wine tastings on the last cruise. We took the first boat there and the final boat back, which gave us almost five hours in Freo – enough for a family with small kids.

The cruise in itself is a lovely way to spend 70 minutes, especially on a fine day. From Barrack Street Jetty it ducks under Narrows Bridge, cruises by the handsome Old Swan Brewery beneath Kings Park, the native bushland of the sprawling University of Western Australia grounds, and boats bobbing in the water at the swish Royal Perth Yacht Club, before reaching Millionaire’s Row with its headland of ostentatious, multi-level homes.

Fremantle for Families – How to Spend a Day in Fremantle with the Family. Fremantle, Perth, Western Australia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

While the adults will probably find the captain’s commentary, focused largely on real estate prices, more fascinating than the kids will, children should enjoy watching the action on the water. All manner of people and vessels take to the Swan River, especially on weekends, from small sailing boats and luxury cruisers to kids learning to catamaran and oldies mastering the stand-up paddle board. There’s plenty of bird life at the protected areas that pepper the coast, and dogs taking their masters for walks along the slender sandy beaches.

Browse the E-Shed Markets

Once you hit land at Victoria Quay, head into the dockside E Shed Markets for a quick look. Firmly focused on the tourist dollar the markets are nevertheless a favourite with kids for their stalls focused on crafts and handmade toys. The market also offers activities for kids, from face painting to performances, and during school holidays offer the chance to pet farm animals among other things.

My niece made a beeline for the old-fashioned lolly shop, which sells an array of sweets and chocolates from around the world. And, yes, she really did behave like a kid in a candy store, so overwhelmed by all the confectionary choices she didn’t know what to buy. Our Fremantle for families day was off to a sweet start.

Step back in time in historic Fremantle

Mosey from the E Shed Markets across the car park and over the railway line and you’re on the edge of Fremantle’s historic quarter, which boasts the state’s largest collection of heritage-listed buildings. Distinguished by handsome sandstone buildings such as the Round House, and splendid brick buildings dating to the Gold Rush era of the 1880s, the warren of streets is now known as the West End and is Fremantle’s hippest neighbourhood.

In between the big corner pubs with their wrought-iron lace balconies and splendid old banks with the date they were built proudly painted on their façades, are some of the most eclectic boutiques and interesting shops in Perth, most of which line High Street. Note: the New Edition Bookshop has some beautiful children’s books. See this post for more on shopping in the West End.

Indulge in ice cream on Cappuccino Strip

High Street will lead you to Market Street and South Terrace, Fremantle’s main commercial drag, which is home to more retail pleasures. There’s much to interest children here, including sweet shops, games arcades, burger joints, and ice-creameries.

Fremantle excels at ice-cream, by the way. At Cold Rock, kids can choose their mix of chocolates, lollies, fruit and nuts to smash into their ice creams, while the specialty at Freo Waffles and Ice Cream is decadent sundaes.

Fremantle for Families – How to Spend a Day in Fremantle with the Family. Fremantle, Perth, Western Australia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

As it turns the corner Market Street becomes South Terrace, better known as ‘Cappuccino Strip’, because of its abundance of cafés. Freo’s strong café culture is thanks to its European heritage, particularly Italians, Greeks and Slavs, who arrived after World War II and settled into Fremantle for the fishing industry.

Don’t miss the Pickled Fairy at South Terrace Piazza, for a breathtaking range of fairy costumes, wings, magic wands, unicorns, crystals, and CDs and books about fairies, dragons, goblins, and handsome princes. You might also spot a fairy or two fluttering around Fremantle Markets…

Explore lively Fremantle Markets

Located on South Terrace, lively Fremantle Markets is the place to be on weekends (Fri 8am-8pm; Sat & Sun 8am-6pm), when locals and tourists pack the splendid market building. The Victorian-era Fremantle Market Hall opened way back in 1898, when vendors would arrive by horse and cart, and operated as a wholesale fruit and vegetable market until the 1950s.

Boasting some 150 stalls, the market still has an excellent fresh local produce section, in ‘The Yard’, with some of the most beautiful looking fruit and vegetables you’ll see around. The afternoon, when vendors reduce their prices, is an excellent time to do your shopping or pick up some fruit for the kids.

For post-market picnic supplies, make a beeline for Lawley’s Bakery for a loaf of sour dough, The Mousetrap Gourmet Cheese Shop for local and imported cheeses, Karutz Small Goods for wonderful handmade sausages and charcuterie, and Levi’s Doughnuts for dessert. You’ll find delicious locally made ice-cream at Ling Ling Icecream House on the corner of Market Lane.

The front section of the market called ‘The Hall’ has a real variety of shops and stalls, selling everything from handicrafts to handmade soaps. Kids love the Fremantle Markets Toy Shop and Fremantle Candy Store, where sweets are made right before your eyes.

Kick Back in Esplanade Park

Saunter down Essex Street to the Esplanade Park with its enormous Norfolk Island pines. A popular location for festivals, fairs and sporting events, there is always something going on in the shady park.

Families and friends sip coffee at the charming kiosk or picnic on blankets spread out on the grass while the children have fun. (It’s a wonderful place for picnics, but if you have more time than we did it’s worth heading to South Beach to spread out a blanket.)

Kids can amuse themselves by fooling around on the playground equipment, kicking about a football or playing cricket, and practicing their skateboard and scooter tricks in the excellent open-air skate park, which also has a rock-climbing wall and ping pong tables.

The Esplanade Park is also home to a 40-metre high ferris wheel, the Fremantle Tourist Wheel (adults A$12, children $10, family $40), which boasts sweeping views over the nearby boat harbour and beach from its closed-in gondolas.

Feast on fish and chips at the fishing boat harbour

Amble around the boardwalk of the fishing boat harbour, which is home to over 400 working vessels and leisure cruisers, along with seafood restaurants, fish and chip shops, cafés, and bars.

Stroll right to the end and cross the road to the small Port Beach if you want to dip your toes in the squeaky soft sand before settling in for a seafood feast. There’s a pleasant wooden boardwalk if you don’t and life size bronze statues hog the benches.

Fremantle for Families – How to Spend a Day in Fremantle with the Family. Fremantle, Perth, Western Australia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

We’ve eaten at both Joe’s Fish Shack and Cicerellos before, so this time we opted for the Kailis Fish Market. First founded in 1928 by the father and grandfather of the current owners, the Kailis Kailis Fish and Lobster Market Café serves up some of the finest quality seafood. This also means it’s the busiest spot on the harbour, so despite the abundance of tables it can be difficult to get a seat.

If you can be flexible, arrive before noon, otherwise come in the late afternoon. Divide and conquer. Have one person wait for a table while the other places your food order (they’ll give you one of those beepers for the table and let you know when it’s ready) and the third goes for drinks. Whatever you do, never leave the food unguarded. The seagulls are fierce.

Do time at Fremantle Museum

Traditionally, a visit to Fremantle should involve a museum and there are plenty of excellent museums to choose from, from the fascinating Round House, where my Mum used to work as a volunteer guide, to the superb Western Australian Maritime Museum and Shipwrecks Galleries.

We decided to work off our fish and chip feast by hiking back up the hill to the Fremantle Prison museum, a couple of blocks behind Fremantle Markets. Convicts played such a crucial role in the city’s development, building some of the handsome sandstone architecture that gives the port city its character, we thought we should learn what life must have been like for them.

Some 10,000 convicts arrived in Fremantle in 1850, tasked with building the infrastructure for the Swan River Colony. Sadly, their first job was to build their own home, the ‘convict establishment’, which would become Fremantle Prison. A number of themed tours offer opportunities to get an insight into aspects of the convicts’ lives, including the Doing Time Tour, Great Escapes Tour, Tunnels Tour, and Torchlight Tour.

We chose the Doing Time Tour, which, with the assistance of a very animated guide, had us putting ourselves in the shoes of the inmates, from the time they were inducted and given uniforms to wear, through to meal time and punishments, to the time they spent in prayer in the prison chapel. The tour is a sobering experience that’s a must for any potentially wayward teens!

Getting Around

Fremantle is a wonderful walking city, but if the little ones need a break make your way to a bus stop and hop on the free CAT bus. Click through for the bus route map.

The blue CAT route carries passengers from Fremantle train station, all the way along Market Street and South Terrace down to South Fremantle where it turns around and runs north along Marine Parade, around The Esplanade, and via Cliff Street before turning right into Phillimore and Fremantle train station.

The red CAT bus runs from the Maritime Museum, along Phillimore past the train station, then turns into Queen Street, where it does a loop that runs by the Town Hall, up High Street, along Ord Street between the Fremantle Arts Centre and Fremantle Park, before turning into Beach Street and heading south via Cantonment Street to return to Fremantle train station and onto the Maritime Museum.

Book a Fremantle Tour

Food Photography, Depth of Field, Aperture and F-Stops

Food Photography, Depth of Field, Aperture and F-Stops. Pulled Pork Burger with Asian Slaw. Siem Reap, Cambodia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

In food photography, depth of field is one of the key tools that photographers use to make delicious looking images. Understanding depth of field, aperture, f-stops and their relationship is essential to mastering photography, particularly portrait and food photography – my bread and butter, so to speak.

I thought I’d skip my usual post for Monday Memories, the photography series in which I reflect on an image I took during the course of my work as a professional photographer, and instead look at the relationship between depth of field, aperture and f-stops, which is vital for photographers to understand, especially those focusing on food photography.

Depth of field refers to the amount of the image that is in focus either side of the focus point. It’s easier to explain in images rather than words or diagrams, so see the images above and the f-stop settings I used (bottom left corner of the images) to achieve the desired depth of field. But there are some important things to understand first…

The f-stop settings on the camera control the size or diametre of the aperture or opening which allows light to pass through to the sensor or film. When you adjust the f-stop you are therefore controlling the amount of light entering that opening.

One of the reasons you will see professional photographers using tripods and release cables to trigger the shutter, is that as the f-stop increases, the exposure time (i.e. the length of time that the aperture stays open) increases too. If the camera wasn’t on a tripod the images would most likely be blurry.

  • Food Photography, Depth of Field, Aperture and F-Stops. Pulled Pork Burger with Asian Slaw. Siem Reap, Cambodia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.
  • Food Photography, Depth of Field, Aperture and F-Stops. Pulled Pork Burger with Asian Slaw. Siem Reap, Cambodia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.
  • Food Photography, Depth of Field, Aperture and F-Stops. Pulled Pork Burger with Asian Slaw. Siem Reap, Cambodia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.
  • Food Photography, Depth of Field, Aperture and F-Stops. Pulled Pork Burger with Asian Slaw. Siem Reap, Cambodia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.
 

In the photos above, the exposure time at f/2.8 was 1/2 a second, while at f8, exposure time was three seconds – not something you could ever do handheld!

Depth of field increases with the f-stop, so an f-stop of f/2.8 has a small or shallow depth of field and f/22 has a large depth of field. If you look at the above images, you can see that by f/8 the burger in the background has more definition and that you can just make out the words ‘SLOW POT’ on the right in the background. (Yes, I pushed the burger down in that image to show the label.)

So, why is this important and why do photographers, and especially food photographers, shoot at all these different f-stops?

Well, the idea of using different depths of field for different food photos is so you can draw the viewers’ eyes to the most important part of the dish, generally the key ingredient.

In this case, the key ingredient is the pulled pork, which, by the way, spent eight hours in that slow cooker, filling the kitchen with the most mouthwatering aromas… but this is a photography post, so I won’t go on.

In the photos above, I’m actually not that happy with the depth of field as it looks like the coriander (cilantro to Northern American readers) is mostly in focus and not enough of the pork is in sharp focus. I should have placed that coriander further back in the bun, but the aromas of the pork were making me damn hungry.

In the photo shot at f/5.6 enough of the pork is in focus to make the burger look more tantalizing. By f/8 we can see more of the ‘SLOW POT’ and assume that it was probably involved in the making of the burger. If this shoot was for the maker of the slow cooker, I’m pretty sure the advertising execs would make me shoot it at f/22 so that the cookware was more in focus.

When shooting in close-up and with shallow focus, such as f/2.8, it’s very difficult to see exactly what is in focus and it can be challenging to judge the depth of the focus on the tiny screen on the back of the camera.

This is why you’ll see food photographers shooting ‘tethered’, which is when the camera is hooked up to a computer and the images are transferred directly from the camera to the computer and displayed on the screen.

This set-up makes it easier to judge whether you have the correct ingredient or section of the image in focus at the shallowest depth of field before shooting at increasingly bigger f-stops.

When shooting digital, it’s always a good idea to shoot up to f/16 from f/2.8 because with each different dish the ideal f-stop that best shows off the dish can really vary.

Food photography is a little like cooking. Even when you have a solid recipe, the seasoning still needs to be adjusted to produce that perfect dish that gets people salivating.

Also see my post on the best lenses for food photography on the road and natural light food photography.

You’ll find more photography tips in my series Monday Memories, where I reflect on moments from my work as a professional photographer.

For a walk through of aperture & depth of field check out this YouTube video by photographer David Loftus.

How to Eat Calçots Like the Locals in Catalunya

How to Eat Calçots Like the Locals in Catalunya. Eating calçots at the Canals & Munné’s Restaurant, Sant Siduru d’Anoia, Catalonia, Spain. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

How to eat calcots is something that has intrigued us since we were last in Barcelona and a local named it as the must-do eating experience. It wasn’t until our trip to the Penedes that we finally had the chance to learn to eat calcots like the locals in Catalunya.

As calçotada get-togethers and festivals are currently underway in Catalunya in Northeastern Spain, we thought we’d share this post of two years ago on the ritual of eating calçots and, more importantly, how to eat calçots like the locals.

How to Eat Calcots Like the Locals in Catalunya

We’ve been travelling to Spain since the mid nineties, but it wasn’t until Terence and I spent two weeks in Barcelona during our yearlong 2010 grand tour that we heard about calcots. More correctly written as calçots in Catalan and pronounced kalsots.

We had asked our Barcelona local knowledge expert Sergio to suggest a must-do eating experience, and without hesitation he recommended la calçotada, a festival or event where the people of Catalunya enjoy the communal ritual of eating calcots.

How to Eat Calçots Like the Locals in Catalunya. Eating calçots at the Canals & Munné’s Restaurant, Sant Siduru d’Anoia, Catalonia, Spain. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

For Catalans, the joyful celebration and ritual of eating calcots is as much a part of the experience as the rather inelegant consumption of the calcots themselves. You will need a bib. (Scroll down for further instructions).

But it wasn’t until our recent trip to the Penedes wine region that we finally got to learn how to eat calcots like the locals in Catalunya, the autonomous region that includes Barcelona, cities and towns like Tarragona, Girona and Lleida, and the Penedes wine region. (The English call it Catalonia.)

What are calcots?

Calçots are something in between an enormous scallion or spring onion and a leek, both in terms of size and flavour. (We were informed they were none of those things.) While they resemble a large spring onion, to us they didn’t taste as pungent as spring onions can be and were more mild and more sweet, like the softest part of the leek.

The calçots from Valls in Tarragona are registered and protected by EU Geographical Indication because that’s where they were first cultivated by a local farmer in the late 1800s.

One of the things that distinguishes calçots from spring onions and so on, is their whiteness (only the ends are green) and this is achieved by covering them with earth as they grow to create a sort of dirt sleeve. We were informed that this is how they got their name, as the process was like putting clothes on the plant, and that verb in Catalan is ‘calçar’.

How are calcots cooked?

Traditionally, calcots are barbecued outdoors, tightly packed beside eachother on a grill over a roaring open fire. In the wine-growing regions they’ll fuel the flames with old grapevine stalks.

However, when we sampled them in a restaurant they were cooked over charcoal and a little fire on a large hearth in a kitchen rather than outside. (See the gallery above.)

If traditions are maintained, the calcots should not be de-rooted or cleaned, so don’t be surprised if they literally taste of the earth.

The only seasonings the cook used on the calcots we sampled were rock salt, a little pepper, and a deliciously green, locally produced, virgin olive oil. She continually turned them until they were evenly charred.

How to Eat Calçots Like the Locals in Catalunya. Eating calçots at the Canals & Munné’s Restaurant, Sant Siduru d’Anoia, Catalonia, Spain. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

When cooked outdoors in the chilly winter and early spring air for a large group, the calcots are traditionally wrapped in newspaper to steam them once they’re charred. They are then kept on roof tiles to keep them warm.

Calcots are dipped in Romesco sauce, which the Catalans call salbitxada. Originating in Catalunya, Romesco is made from roasted red peppers (as in red bell peppers or capsicum), almonds, garlic, olive oil, and bread, and is also served with seafood.

This Serious Eats Romesco sauce recipe is the closest we’ve found to the Catalan recipe. Another Bon Appetit recipe was recommended as being delicious, but strangely enough it doesn’t have bread and it also has the addition of tomato puree and Sherry vinegar.

If you haven’t tried it before, Romesco sauce is a little similar to muhammara, our favourite Syrian dip, which is made with walnuts instead of almonds, and has the addition of pomegranate molasses.

Where can calcots be eaten?

The most quintessential calcot eating experience is at a calcotada. ‘La calçotada’, as the Catalans call it, can be as simple as a group of friends and family getting together to grill them around an open fire in the backyard.

It can also take the form of a public event, such as a festival that celebrates the calcots harvest. The first and the most famous calcotada is in Valls, Tarragona, the Gran Festa de la Calçotada, which falls on the last weekend of January, when thousands of people will stand about watching the grilling with wine in hand before partaking in mass peeling and dipping.

These festivals have a long tradition. At the VINSEUM Catalan Wine Cultures Museum in Villafrancha, I saw an old black and white image of a group of people dressed up in their early 20th century finery, standing in a circle around a fire, each holding a calcot high above their head.

How to Eat Calçots Like the Locals in Catalunya. Eating calçots at the Canals & Munné’s Restaurant, Sant Siduru d’Anoia, Catalonia, Spain. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

While traditionally, the calçotades take place in late January, in the peak of winter, depending upon where they’re grown, they could be eaten throughout the calcot season, which we were told could last anywhere from November to April.

We tried calcots on our 50 Great Cavas trip, which we spent sipping Cava and sampling Catalan cuisine in the Penedès wine region near Barcelona. Our hosts at Canals & Munné’s restaurant in Sant Sidurni d’Anoia served us what they said were the first early calcots of the season. That was in late October.

We experienced what is apparently a traditional calçotada with the calçots for the first course, then grilled meats and vegetables, including the region specialty, the pork sausage called botifarra, all served with local wines.

And here’s where the fun began, with a lesson on how to eat calcots like the locals…

How to Eat Calcots Like the Locals

  1. Tie a napkin or bib around your neck – unless you want sauce on your shirt.
  2. Take one calçot and grasp it tightly near its base with the fingers of one hand and with the other hand reach for the most central piece with the fingers of your other hand.
  3. Gently pull. The central soft, lemon or off-white coloured piece should slide free fairly easily, though it can be tricking the first time.
  4. Discard the outer charred green skins.
  5. Dip the soft core into a bowl of Romesco sauce, generously covering the calçot.
  6. Tilt your head back, open your mouth wide, and drop the delectable morsal into your mouth. Chew, swallow, sigh
  7. Wash it down with a glass of Cava.
  8. Repeat.

Make sure to scroll through the gallery of images above.

Have you had the opportunity to eat calcots like the locals in Catalunya before? How did you manage? If you have any additional tips on how to eat calcots like the locals we’d love to hear from you in the Comments below.

Our trip through the Penedes Wine Region was hosted by Wine Pleasures.

Scenes from the Siem Reap Water Festival – Bon Om Tuk in Images

A race begins at the Siem Reap Water Festival, (Bon Om Tuk) Siem Reap, Cambodia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Browse these scenes from the Siem Reap Water Festival or Bon Om Tuk in Khmer, which marks the end of monsoon and reversal of the Tonle Sap (Great Lake) with boat races, water rituals, and celebrations. Terence can usually be found on the riverside capturing the water festival.

Scroll down to browse Terence’s stunning photographs of scenes from the Siem Reap Water Festival or Bon Om Tuk in the Khmer language, held in Siem Reap every October-November. Hopefully they inspire you to book a flight to Cambodia

You can read more here about the Siem Reap Water Festival and the long history of the festival, the traditions and ceremonies, what to expect, and our tips on how best to experience Bon Om Tuk with the locals.

Scenes from the Siem Reap Water Festival – Bon Om Tuk in Images

The highlight of the three-day Siem Reap Water Festival is the first two days of boat races. Teams consist of people representing their village, community or place of work. There’s a lot of participation from staff working at hotels, for government departments, and even in the army. Some teams practice for days, others for weeks.

The Siem Reap riverbanks get packed with spectators, mostly locals and Cambodian tourists, but there are increasingly foreign visitors too.

Some of the observers are here to support particular teams – villagers who have travelled a long distance camp out on the river bank, stringing hammocks up and spreading matting out to prepare food and eat and drink together, and the crowd arranges itself around the happy campers to watch the races.

It’s always wonderful to see the spectators getting especially excited during the women’s races. And it’s not only the women watching who are jumping up and down. Last festival, we spotted a number of male members in the VIP seats across the water leap to their feet each time the ladies rowed by.

Whether male or female, the rowers take the races seriously, as you can see from the scenes from the Siem Reap Water Festival, below – especially the images of the teams in orange and yellow t-shirts, who always appeared to have looks of intense concentration on their faces.

 

Even in the blistering heat of the mid afternoon, the crowds don’t diminish. They just don their hats (check out the wide array of styles in the pictures above) or improvise, protecting their heads with kramas (a traditional Cambodian cotton checked scarf), t-shirts, and hand towels.

Aside from the boat races, there are demonstrations of bokator, a centuries-old martial art that dates back to the Khmer Empire. I love Terence’s shot of the bokator fighter with intricate tattoos on his chest. We’ve got a story coming on bokator, but the tattoos offer strength and protection.

As evident in the scenes from the Siem Reap Water Festival above, people also enjoy the opportunity the holiday provides to be able to stroll the car-free riverside streets. Normally the leafy riverside roads are busy with vehicles, so it’s fabulous to see the streets free of traffic and people happily wandering along the waterfront.

There are plenty of stalls to browse selling all sorts of (sometimes strange) things, from cheap clothes and kids toys to tractors and other farming machinery. But most people seem content just to amble.

Festival goers also appear to relish the opportunity to sit around with family and friends and eat and drink and watch the live music on stages and the grassy riverbanks.

Cambodian street food is in abundance during the Siem Reap Water Festival, with stalls lining the riverside and filling the parks. Click through to the link to drool over the array of street food on offer.

The highlight of the event for us is always the final hour. After the last boat all of the crews row down the river together to the VIP tent to hear the victorious teams announced. It’s always an emotional scene and a colourful spectacle made all the more atmospheric by the setting sun.

Every crew rows with great pride, relishing their victories, however small, raising their oars in the air and shouting out the cries of triumphant warriors. Each rower deserves their moment, not only the winners. They all demonstrate strength, stamina, skill, and team spirit, in a way that is never aggressive and always good-natured.

It always feels special to share the moment with them. To experience this is reason enough to attend the Siem Reap Water Festival.

Cambodian Street Food in Siem Reap – Footpath Feasting in Temple Town

Cambodian Street Food in Siem Reap – Footpath Feasting in Temple Town. Grilled Pork Skewers, Siem Reap, Cambodia. Copyright © 2022 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Cambodian street food in Siem Reap is there for the sampling, sold at stalls within local markets, along the riverside, on the city’s boulevards and backstreets, and from vendors on foot and motorbike selling snacks in local neighbourhoods.

Cambodian street food was a highlight of the recent Water Festival in Cambodia’s northern city of Siem Reap, gateway to Angkor Archaeological Park and Angkor Wat. Food carts and food stalls lined the length of the riverside and filled the parks, while mobile vendors roamed the streets, stopping to set up shop wherever a hungry crowd gathered around.

But outside festival time, on any given day you’ll find fantastic Cambodian street food in Siem Reap, around the perimeters of local markets such as Phsar Chas or Old Market (also written as Phsar Chaa) in the heart of those same Siem Reap markets, especially Psar Leu (the large market on National Highway 6), and outside the small riverside markets and neighbourhood markets scattered around town.

Cambodian street food in Siem Reap is also sold from food stalls along a section of the riverside opposite Old Market and on the adjoining blocks; dotted along main roads such as National Highway 6, Sivutha Boulevard, Wat Bo Road, and River Road; and in the residential backstreets, where the customers are the locals who live and work in that neighbourhood. The stalls usually set up or move around the streets in the late afternoon and early evening as locals are heading home from work.

Cambodian street food in Siem Reap is also found on and around Pub Street where there are the ubiquitous fruit shake stands, and banana pancake vendors and ‘roty’ sellers (although they’re not really ‘roti’, but are more like French pancakes or crepes), and wok-fried spiders and bugs that are primarily there for tourists to snap selfies (the best insects are sold in the markets and at Road 60).

Here’s our guide to the delicious Cambodian street food in Siem Reap that we sampled during the recent Water Festival that you should look out for when you visit Temple Town at any time of year.

Cambodian Street Food in Siem Reap – Footpath Feasting in Temple Town

This is our guide to the best Cambodian street food in Siem Reap.

Grilled Beef and Pork Skewers

Grilled skewers of meat, both beef and pork (see the photo above), are some of the most popular Cambodian street food snacks and you’ll mostly see two types. Just look for the smoke rising from the wood fire burning from within a food cart or a clay brazier with smouldering coals to find these tasty street food treats.

The smoky, sticky red pork skewers are sweetish and have a very similar flavour profile to Cambodia’s quintessential breakfast dish, bai sach chrouk, which is pork marinated in palm sugar, soy, garlic, salt, and pepper, or sometimes a Chinese five spice-style marinade.

It’s served atop rice with a crunchy, tangy-sweet serving of salad or chrouk l’hong, generally green papaya or cucumber with daikon and maybe a little carrot in vinegar and palm sugar. The skewers are prepared in the same way, however, they are often sold on their sticks in pairs or four skewers with the lightly pickled salad on the side that you can eat with the skewer.

The other type that’s popular is the beef skewer, sach ko ang, which is generally marinated in kroeung (lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, kaffir lime, garlic), and sometimes fish sauce, before being barbecued.

They’re also served with a pickled salad and sometimes a warm buttered baguette. Both skewers usually sell for R1000 (25c) per skewer or four for R4000 ($1). There are several local restaurants (one is little more than a shack) on Wat Damnak street that serve these in the late afternoon and evening.

Baby duck eggs

Baby duck eggs or duck foetus eggs, or pong tae koun in Khmer, are another very popular late afternoon or early evening Cambodian street food snack. They are usually sold two ways as well.

You’ll most likely see women carrying two baskets on their shoulders or a single basket balanced on the front of their pushbike. One basket will hold the boiled eggs in white shells and another basket will have dishes, egg cups, tea spoons, and condiments – salt, pepper, limes (for the juice), maybe some finely sliced red chillies, and fresh green herbs (generally a mix of fish leaf, rice paddy herbs, maybe some lemon basil).

These women will often carry a small stack of tiny plastic chairs so you can sit down to savour your baby duck egg. To do as the locals do, put the salt and pepper in the tiny dish, squeeze in some lime juice, mix it up, and break up some of the herbs.

Crack a hole large enough for your tea spoon to fit in the top of the egg and pour in some of the tangy salt, pepper and lime mix, folding it into the delicious duck juices. You can squeeze in some herbs or nibble them after. These eggs are less cooked than the darker eggs you’ll also see, pictured above, and the juices of the duck are wonderful with the salt, pepper and lime.

The darker eggs with the hole in the top, firm yolk that has oozed out, and perhaps a little beak poking through, like you see in the image above, have already had some of the seasoning of salt, pepper and lime poked inside before being cooked a little longer.

These eggs are made for eating on the go. You can simply peel the egg and eat it whole, although foreigners generally find this off-putting as the form of the baby duck is visible. So perhaps look for a small spoon to dip in instead.

Steamed pork buns

Cambodian pork buns – called nom pao – are similar in style to the ubiquitous Chinese pork buns (siopao) found around Asia, but while tasty and serving perfectly fine as a filling snack, they are generally not nearly as delicious in my opinion. Although there are, of course, exceptions. Until you get to know the different stallholders, it can be hit and miss.

In general, the filling of the steamed pork buns in Siem Reap tends to be less rich and dense, and is often more savoury, with smaller and fewer pork pieces, or minced pork used instead, and is seasoned with a thin peppery gravy.

Some fillings, on the other hand, are sweeter, as they are made with a red Chinese sausage. While other pork buns are plain and come with an egg inside. The bun itself also tends to have more of a bread like consistency and isn’t as light and fluffy as the Chinese buns.

While you’ll see vendors that only sell buns, it’s something of a Cambodian street food tradition for a vendor to sell pork buns, eggs and steamed corn. The pork buns here make a very cheap snack – they’re generally about R1000 (25c) for a large bun and R500 (12.5c) for a small bun. Eat them while they’re hot; they’re not nearly as nice cold.

Grilled sausages on skewers

The Cambodians love their sausages sweet, like the red Chinese sausages which are so beloved by locals here they call it Siem Reap sausage. Cambodians travel from all over the country to buy these in Siem Reap. These aren’t always to the taste of foreigners who aren’t from Asia.

These small sausage balls on skewers are no exceptions. They’re best for sharing, as a whole skewer can be a bit sickly by the end if you’re like me and prefer spicy and savoury to sweet. I always wish I had a bun or baguette to pop them into.

Some sausages can be very fatty – another reason why a bun would be good! – so look for the darker coloured sausages, which have more meat. If they’re whiter or have large patches of white, then that’s pieces of fat.

They’re tasty, though, and are good washed down with cold beer. They also serve as a good hangover cure. You can buy a skewer for about R1000 (25c). Sometimes vendors will sell a plate of four with a pickled salad on the side, as they do with the skewers for R4000 ($1).

Sugar cane juice

You’ll see the ubiquitous sugar cane juice sellers around town, making sugar cane juice to order. Look for the bees buzzing overheard and for the long lengths of sugar cane, and listen for the sound of the cane being crunched through the crusher. The juice is generally served in a plastic cup or plastic bag with a straw over ice.

Note that ice is, on the whole (but not always), safe in Cambodia, thanks to the French who installed plenty of ice factories. Do be cautious, however, and always use the busiest stalls. A sugar cane juice is a fabulous pick-me-up and thirst-quencher if you’ve been out in the sun all day.

Silk worms and crickets

Wok-fried silk worms (in the gallery pic, they are at the top of the image, in the plastic bag) and crickets (in the plastic container beneath the silk worms), are generally fried with palm sugar, salt and perhaps some fish sauce, then sprinkled with thin slices of fiery red chillies and perhaps sliced chives or spring onions. They are another Cambodian street food snack that are popular with locals.

As are tarantulas. They’re not just here for tourists. I was at Phsar Chas or Old Market in Siem Reap the other day when a woman arrived with a box full of fried tarantulas. Her friends, fellow stallholders, and their kids – including a cute little girl as young as three or four – quickly gathered around to share the treats.

First they pulled off the legs to bite into, as we might pull apart a chicken wing, and then savoured the body of the spider.  I’m not a fan, but I think the silk worms are actually quite delicious. At Marum restaurant they serve a silk worm salad.

Unless you’re trying the spiders at a restaurant, the tarantulas are best avoided. There have been reports of some sellers around Pub Street, where sales are aimed more at tourists rather than locals, not removing all the hairs from the tarantula legs and the hairs getting lodged in people’s throats, resulting in serious illness. Our advice: stick to the silk worms or crickets.

Corn on the cob

After rice, corn is one of the staples and corn on the cobs are the one of the most ubiquitous Cambodian street food snacks. You’ll see corn sold on nearly every street corner in the late afternoon and early evening, especially in Battambang, where much of the country’s best corn is grown.

Corn is generally steamed, although occasionally grilled, but either way it tends to be served plain in Cambodia. Unlike in other countries, such as Thailand and Mexico, where they’ll serve it with salt, pepper, chillies, mayonnaise, and lime.

Some enterprising vendors will offer condiments here but most don’t, and to be honest, while I do love the way the Mexicans do their corn, the Cambodian corn is so sweet and delicious, it’s wonderful on its own.

Sour and Pickled Fruits

You’ll often see women with baskets of various peeled and sliced yellow and green tropical fruits, including green mango, green papaya, guava, sapodilla, rose apple, wax apple, and jujube and so on.

The women will generally be sitting beside each other in a row, each specialising in a few different types of fruits, and Cambodian women will pull up on their motorbikes and choose what they want. Or you may find one vendor with a cart and a large selection of fruit.

Some of the fruits will be lightly pickled, while others will be fresh but unripe. Either way, they’ll be sprinkled with finely sliced red chillies and the women will sell them with a small bag of salt, sugar and chilli (or pepper) mix that you can dip the fruit into.

Interestingly, pickled fruit is considered to be a snack only eaten by women or lady boys in Cambodia. Apparently it’s very popular with pregnant women in particular.

If you’re a fan of eating street food, also see our full Culinary Guide to Siem Reap, and if you’re keen to sample more Cambodian street food on your travels, see our post on How to Eat Safely in Cambodia. Also check out this post for more images from the Siem Reap Water Festival.