To a large pot of room temperature water over high heat, add the potatoes and a ½ teaspoon of salt, bring to the boil. When you can easily pierce the potatoes with a fork, drain and mash the potatoes with 30g butter, season with more salt and pepper to taste, then fold through the chopped fresh dill and finely sliced scallions/spring onions.

Preheat your oven to 220°C/430°F, then, working quickly, make the creamy sauce: in a medium sized saucepan over low heat, melt the butter then gradually stir in the sifted flour to create a smooth paste. Remove from heat and gradually whisk in the cooking cream, then return to heat and simmer, stirring continuously until you have a thick creamy sauce. If too thick, add a little more cream (or whole milk).

Transfer the sauce to a large mixing bowl, add half the grated cheeses, the Dijon mustard, salt and pepper, combine well, then add the cooked pieces of salmon and gently fold in so it doesn’t break apart too much.

Use a tablespoon to transfer generous scoops of mashed potato into each of the six ramekins, pressing it down to fill a quarter of the ramekin, then transfer twice the amount of creamy salmon to the ramekins.

Add another final layer of potato mash to 5mm beneath the ramekin rims, then use the remaining grated cheeses, distributing them evenly between the ramekins, first adding a layer of grated Parmigiano Reggiano, followed by a layer of grated cheddar, which should take you right to the top of the ramekins.

Transfer the ramekins to a baking tray, in case the cheese melts over the ramekin sides, then bake for 30 minutes or so until the tops are golden and crispy, and serve immediately with a fresh garden salad on the side.