Make the cabbage filling the day before you make the dumplings: put the shredded cabbage in a large mixing bowl and sprinkle a teaspoon of salt over it, combine it with clean hands, then set it aside.

In a large round flat-bottomed wok or fry pan over medium heat, heat two tablespoons of olive oil and fry the diced onion until soft, add the grated carrot, combine, and fry for a few minutes more, then transfer to the same bowl as the cabbage, combine, and set aside.

Add another tablespoon of olive oil to the wok or pan and fry the bacon until cooked, turn the heat to low, then add the tomato paste, teaspoon of salt, white pepper, sugar, paprika, allspice, cumin, and bay leaves, combine well, then add another tablespoon of olive oil, cabbage, onion and carrot, and combine well.

Increase heat to medium and stir frequently until the cabbage starts to brown. If needed, add a little water, stir to combine, then reduce heat to low, cover with a lid, and braise for 25 minutes or so, stirring occasionally until cabbage is tender.

Remove the lid, taste, adjust seasoning if needed, then cook with the lid off until any liquid has reduced, stirring occasionally, until the braised cabbage is soft, rich and aromatic. When ready, remove from heat, stir in a tablespoon of chopped fresh dill, transfer to a serving bowl to cool, then refrigerate overnight or all day.

Make the dough by pouring the flour into a large mixing bowl. Poke a hole in the centre, add the salt, then gradually pour 100 ml of water into the hole, stir with a fork to combine, then gradually add more water and stir until you have a shaggy consistency. Use your hands to combine and form into a rough ball of dough then transfer to a floured work surface.

Knead the dough for 5 minutes or so. If it’s too dry, add a little more of the water; if too wet, add a little more flour. Don’t over-knead. Return it to the bowl, cover with a damp clean cotton cloth, and set aside to rest for a minimum of 30 minutes.

Put a big stock pot of water onto the stove to boil and throw in a pinch of salt. Lightly dust a big tray with sifted flour. Fill a small dish with water.

To make the vareniki casings, sprinkle a little flour onto your work surface, split the dough into quarters, and keep the dough you’re not using in the bowl under the damp cotton cloth.

Use a rolling pin to roll a ball of dough into a large oval shape around 2mm thick. Use a 7cm diameter cookie-cutter (or glass rim) to create the dumpling rounds. Begin at the top edge and work your way around and into the centre, leaving no space between rounds. (If using a glass, twist the rim back and forth to cut through the dough.) Once done, pull the dough scraps away, roll them into a ball and pop under the cloth.

To make the vareniki, hold a round of dough flat in the palm of one hand and use a teaspoon to scoop out 6 g of braised cabbage. Place it at the centre of the casing, fold one half side over, and pinch the edges together to seal firmly. If it doesn’t seal, rub a little water along the inside edge and press together. Lay the half-moon shaped dumpling onto the flour dusted tray. Repeat until you’ve used all the dough. It should make around 48 dumplings.

Boil the dumplings in batches of 12 so they're not over-crowded: drop the dumplings in individually, then turn up the heat a little to maintain the boil. When the dumplings rise to the surface, give them another few minutes, then use a slotted spoon to scoop them out and transfer them to a casserole dish with a generous chunk of quality butter and a tablespoon of braised cabbage. Gently shake the casserole dish from side to side to ensure the vareniki are covered in butter and cabbage. Repeat until you’ve boiled all dumplings.

Distribute the vareniki between the plates, scatter some braised cabbage on top, plop a generous dollop of sour cream onto each plate, sprinkle with chopped fresh dill, and serve immediately.