To a large Southeast Asian granite mortar and pestle, add the rock sugar and pound to the same granulated texture of the sea salt, so it still has shape and crunch. Stop pounding before it gets to a powder.

Add the chilli flakes to the mortar – or if you’re starting from scratch, add the dried red chillies, which you’ll need to pound to reduce to flakes. Note: if you prefer mild heat levels, then pound the chillies separately and pour them through a mesh sieve that’s fine enough to catch the seeds, before pounding the sugar.

Lastly, add the sea salt to the mortar, and pound everything just enough to combine, taking care not to grind the mix to a powder.

Use a large spoon and funnel to transfer your chilli sugar salt to a jar or air-tight container for storage, scoop some into a dish if serving soon, or sprinkle some directly onto a platter of fresh fruit if serving immediately to give the condiment time to soak into the fruit. Don’t forget the toothpicks.