The languid Pacific coast town of Manuel Antonio in Costa Rica is hot and humid. Stand still long enough here and you’ll see mould appearing on your body. The locals, however, have standing still down to an art. The laidback Costa Ricans take their time with everything. It’s common sense when just the act of … Read more
It’s been a long day learning to surf in Costa Rica. I can barely lift my arms above my shoulders. My knees are red raw. As are my ribs. My back feels like I’ve been bent over breaking rocks with a chain gang. I can taste salt and I still have sand in my hair. … Read more
Bali, a true Surfer’s Paradise. When I was a kid starting to surf in Australia, on the Sunshine Coast (no, not the Gold Coast) in Queensland, Bali was a mythical destination. Surfers would return from Indonesia with tales of epic surf, friendly locals and cheap beer. They would also come back with the scars to … Read more