In the 1970s surfers went to Indonesia’s mystical island of Bali to ride its mesmerising waves while living as frugally as possible. These days they settle into luxury pool villas and slip in some surfing between yoga classes and smoothie bowls. The Bali of today caters for all budgets, tastes and interests – you can surf, spa and shop, take a cooking class, do a meditation course or watch a traditional ceremony. You can feast on farm to table cuisine or tuck into roast duck, dance on tables or savour beachside sundowners. Avoid Kuta and Bali is as spellbinding as it’s ever been.