• Ipanema, Where Life's a Beach, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Copyright 2014 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

Ipanema, Where Life’s a Beach

One of the first things we do when we arrive at a new destination is explore our neighbourhood. Despite having done the long haul down to Rio de Janeiro from Costa Rica via Miami, it didn’t take us long to get out the door and down to the famous Ipanema beach.

Our Ipanema apartment is just two blocks from the beach, so a stroll along the gorgeous stretch of sand known as Praia de Ipanema (Ipanema Beach) was our first task and a duty we decided we would take seriously each day.

The weather has not been on our side this trip with locals in nearly every place we’ve stayed telling us that the grey skies and rain that welcomed us were uncharacteristic for this time of year. Right. Rio’s been no exception with mist shrouding the striking Dois Irmãos peaks overlooking Praia de Leblon – the beach adjoining Ipanema – from the day we arrived.

Miraculously, the weather doesn’t seem to have any affect on the ability of Cariocas, as Rio’s locals are called, to enjoy themselves. Nor does it appear to disrupt their daily routines. In other cities, locals would be retreating to coffee shops and pubs.

Here in Ipanema, and neighbouring Leblon and Copacabana, Cariocas continue to walk, jog, rollerblade, cycle, skateboard, exercise, eat, drink, read, and even dance on the bike track and black and white paved footpath that runs beside the beach.

Down on the sand, they’re playing volleyball, racket ball and soccer (football), and sunbathing, flirting and selling stuff. And in the sea, they’re swimming, boogie boarding, surfing, and the kids are fooling around.

Each day we see the same locals jogging down to the beach in a wetsuit with a surfboard under their arms, walking their dogs, reading a newspaper as they sip a fresh sucos (fruit juices) or coconut juice, snoozing on a tiled bench, or simply sitting and soaking up a little sun as they take in the scene.

Praia de Ipanema, is, like most Rio beaches, marked by handily numbered Postos housing toilets, police and lifeguards. Practicalities aside, the Postos also define and delineate the stretches of sand and the locals who populate them, giving each space of beach a personality all its own.

Our beach is identified by Posto 9, and while we’re told its character was decidedly counter-culture from the 1970s to 1990s, these days it seems to attract all sorts, from elderly teams of trim, tanned volleyballers to skinny favela kids kicking a soccer ball around, making the people-watching absolutely engrossing.

Grey skies? Well, if the weather doesn’t bother the locals, we’re not going to let it worry us.

End of Article


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2014-09-24T09:03:45+00:00By |

About the Author:

A travel and food writer who has experienced over 70 countries and written for Australian Gourmet Traveller, Feast, Delicious, The Guardian, National Geographic Traveller, Wanderlust, Get Lost, Travel+Leisure Asia, DestinAsian, The Independent, The Telegraph, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, AFAR, Four Seasons Magazine, Fah Thai, Sawasdee, and more, as well as authored some 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, DK, Footprint, Rough Guides, Thomas Cook, and AA Guides.


  1. Erica October 14, 2010 at 6:47 am

    Oh, how I would love to spend a day in Ipanema! Thanks for reminding me how much I love summer and beach life with all your striking photos. Totally understand why you’d want to take a stroll along Ipanema beach every day. Wonder how the beach looks like in the morning, say 6-7am, or just as the sun rises, before most locals and tourists have gathered there.

  2. Lara Dunston November 28, 2010 at 7:13 am

    Thanks, Erica! It’s pretty desolate at sunrise, though it doesn’t take locals long to get out for their walks and jogs. Unfortunately we didn’t have very good weather this trip – lots of grey skies and rain – so we didn’t get up that early. Next time… 🙂

  3. Lily March 25, 2011 at 4:18 pm

    What a great blog and great travels! Went to Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, and Israel last December using your LP and came across your blog as we were planning our trip to Brazil. Just got back from Rio for Carnaval and had a fantastic time. We stayed with our cariocas friend at his parent’s flat in Gavea. We really enjoyed Cobal as well — nice local hangout. Looking for to reading more about your travels! All the best, L.

  4. Terence Carter March 27, 2011 at 10:32 pm

    Thanks Lily, it’s been a long time since we wrote for LP! Sorry if it’s so out of date!

  5. Leslie (Downtown Traveler) July 11, 2012 at 1:05 pm

    Great photos– love the montage! Brazil is among my favorite destinations, and Rio is so much fun 🙂

  6. Lara Dunston July 11, 2012 at 1:29 pm

    Thanks, Leslie! Completely agree with you! We loved Rio!

  7. Anisha Shah September 9, 2013 at 5:03 am

    I adored Ipanema! So refreshing after Copacabana! Leblon has some fantastic restaurants, cafes & shops. Great area in which to live!

  8. Lara Dunston September 14, 2013 at 1:53 pm

    Glad you loved Ipanema and Leblon. I don’t mind Copacabana actually – I much preferred it the first trip I did many years ago but there are some hidden gems in those backstreets waiting to be discovered; great little cafes and bars. Would return to Rio in a heartbeat!

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