May 14

Weekend in Melbourne

Chin Chin, Melbourne, Victoria. Copyright 2014 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

When we lived in Sydney, Melbourne was one of our favourite frequent getaways for a weekend of eating, drinking and shopping. Here are our quick tips for a Weekend in Melbourne. Get a taste of its mouthwatering food scene here.

Check in

Stay in one of Melbourne’s city centre hotels if it’s your first trip to the city. The Metropol is sexy, The Hotel Windsor oozes history, and the Jasper is great if you’re on a budget. But if it’s not, consider family-owned boutique hotels such The Lyall or The Hatton in South Yarra or The Prince or Hotel Urban in St Kilda.

Friday Night

Queue for a table for Thai at buzzy Chin Chin — if the line’s long you sip a drink downstairs bar while you wait — or book a table at Rumi for authentic Lebanese. After do a bar hop, calling into quirky spots like Cookie and Croft Institute. More bar ideas here.

Saturday Morning

Melburnians love their coffee, so kick-start your day as the locals do with a coffee at one of the city’s countless cafés, such as our favourite, Market Lane. Do Hidden Secrets Lanes and Arcades tour for an introduction to Melbourne’s history, architecture, coffee scene, street art, and secret shops.

Saturday Lunch

Slip into Movida for a light lunch of tapas, Spice Temple for yum cha or Bistro Guillaume for a French classic, but save some room for later.

Saturday Afternoon

Browse the city’s most idiosyncratic boutiques and do some vintage shopping then indulge in another quintessentially Melbourne experience — afternoon tea at the Hotel Windsor.

Saturday Night

Sip some glasses of wine while the sun goes down at Siglo then dine downstairs at The European for the buzzy atmosphere as much as the comfort food. After, hit rooftop Madame Brussels for cocktails.

Sunday Morning

Graze your way around one of Melbourne’s mouthwatering local markets such as the Queen Victoria Market, South Melbourne Market or Prahran Market, which all offer foodie tours.

Sunday Lunch

Head to Victoria Street for Vietnamese or if you like your food fiery to South Yarra for Dainty Sichuan.

Sunday Afternoon

Amble a park such as the Royal Botanic Gardens, Fitzroy Gardens or Albert Park, then hop on a tram to sprawl out on the sand at St Kilda Beach to savour the sunset.

Sunday Evening

Head to a pub, such as Middle Park Hotel, for a pub counter meal and boutique beers before your flight.

Getting there and around

Check out dialaflight for flights to Melbourne offered by many international airlines as well as air passes and fly-drive packages — handy if you extend your stay and add on a wine trip to the Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula. Take the SkyBus from Melbourne airport to Southern Cross Station. For info on using trams and buses, see our post on Melbourne on a Budget and for more ideas on how to spend a weekend in Melbourne see Weekend Notes which has lots of listings on events, tours and activities.

‘Weekend in…’ is a new series motivated by the many requests we get from readers and friends for itineraries to a places, the most common being for a short stopover, a weekend, three days, or a few weeks in a destination. With the imminent launch of our new site design we will be introducing a bespoke itinerary service that we have been offering on a request basis. Until then, if you have a destination for which you’d like to see an itinerary here on Grantourismo let us know in the comments below.

Apr 06

An Update from the Road: to Singapore via Phuket and back to Bangkok


Chinatown, Singapore. Copyright 2014 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

We’re back in Cambodia at our home in Siem Reap so this isn’t strictly an update from the road. Although I did start writing it in Singapore where I was feeling terribly guilty for having had to neglect poor Grantourismo because we were so busy working on print stories.

Terence and I have just returned from one of those trips we increasingly seem to have a tendency to do, where we end up staying in a place much longer than we’d ever intended to. Remember Vietnam? We flew into Hanoi at the end of 2013 for a month and seven months later we were still there. When they wouldn’t allow us to extend our visa anymore, we finally boarded a bus in Saigon for Phnom Penh.

The Singapore trip took us first to Phuket for a couple of nights to try the flamboyant new Iniala Beach House and Aziamendi restaurant, and interview the lovely Michelin three-starred Basque chef Eneko Atxa for stories for Australian Gourmet Traveller and Southeast Asian Globe, amongst other publications.

It was a couple of delicious nights (the first night was actually Terence’s birthday) spent eating the exquisite food of Eneko and his chef de cuisine Alex Burger, who is permanently based there, and the fresh, simple flavours of Iniala chef Sandro Aguilera. We’ll tell you more about that soon.

We then flew on to Singapore, again for Gourmet Traveller and a few other publications, but primarily to attend the San Pellegrino and Acqua Panna 2014 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards and participate in some of the excellent activities they organized this year. These included a Culinary Workshop with Chef David Thompson of Nahm restaurant in Bangkok (which was deservedly voted Asia’s Best for 2014) and an inspiring one-day Future of Food Forum, which I wrote about for Southeast Asian Globe, which we’ll also tell you more about shortly.

A two-week trip somehow turned into four weeks and I blame Singapore’s fantastic food. We spent most days interviewing fascinating chefs, Terence photographing beautiful dishes and making handsome portraits, and stuffing our faces with some of the finest food we’d had in a long time. Each day we’d find ourselves eating (often twice a day) at outstanding restaurants that really do deserve to be named some of Asia’s best, and in between we’d be tucking into local comfort food at hawker centres.

One evening, thanks to restaurateur Ignatius Chan, we dined on a wonderful degustation meal at his restaurant and then went hawker centre hopping. While sipping cocktails at his nearby bar after dinner, Iggy said, “Let’s do a Tets!” (as a hawker hop is something that Chef Tetsuya Wakuda apparently likes to do) and he hired a taxi to take us out to try a few of his favourite dishes.

You see, we’d been complaining to Iggy that we didn’t think we’d tried the best renditions of some of Singapore’s most popular local dishes yet (despite using supposedly reliable sources of information) and Iggy was intent on fixing that. And he did. I have no idea how we managed to fit in all that food. It was quite an achievement and it was lots of fun.

By the end of our month-long stay we had eaten at most of the Singapore restaurants on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, including Waku Ghin, Iggy’s, Les Amis, Jaan, and Tippling Club, and at many of the city’s other fine restaurants, such as Pollen, Catalunya, Esquina, Cut, Bacchanalia, db Bistro Moderne, Sky on 57, Osteria Mozza, Cassia, Skirt, Ku De Ta, and more.

Yet somehow we still left with a long list of restaurants that we had ran out of time to try that will be at the top of our to-try list for the next trip. Next time we’re keen to sample some of the smaller neighbourhood restaurants ran by Singaporean chefs who are experimenting with the local cuisine and those claiming to be using local produce — quite an achievement in an island-state with little land, where sustainability is a key issue. I have a dozen on my list so far but more recommendations are always welcome.

Aside from experiencing Singapore’s best restaurants, another goal of the trip had been to try as many of the finest interpretations and original renditions of Singapore’s most quintessential dishes as we could, at hawker centres and local eateries and wherever else they might be. That was the sort of food we’d eaten on previous visits.

Because this wasn’t our first trip to Singapore, of course. We’ve been countless times over the years, mainly on short stopovers between Australia and the UAE when we lived in Abu Dhabi and Dubai. The most memorable trip was to fulfill my father’s dying wish to travel to Asia. We took Dad and Mum to Singapore and Malaysia (his doctors wouldn’t let him venture further), and it was a very special time spent together.

That was a fantastic trip when it came to the food too, both because of the company and the circumstances. We treasured every moment. My parents loved their food and we created lots of great food memories together, slurping soups, tucking into noodles, dipping into steamboats, and sucking on the claws of countless Singapore Chilli Crabs, the sauce from the crab dripping down our hands and arms, and washing it all down with icy beers.

Singapore Chilli Crab featured on this recent trip too. One of our first meals in the city was with a bunch of Bangkok restaurant friends who were in town for the Awards. We feasted on a fantastic, rich Chilli Crab with the sweetest and plumpest of crab meat, and at least a dozen other superb seafood dishes (that’s what happens when you let a chef order) at the legendary No Sign Board restaurant in Geylang. It was a fun night of feasting.

The next four weeks saw us eating everywhere from rowdy hawker centres, where we found ourselves standing in interminable queues (usually for Hainanese chicken and rice) and busy local coffee shops (for kopi, kaya toast and soft-boiled eggs, of course) to loud dim sum joints (for pau) and 24-hour curbside Muslim restaurants (for biryani and curries).

We also tested out cocktail bars, did a cooking class, browsed markets, and checked out Temple Street’s kitchen shops. We explored the artsy heritage area of Bras Basah, the busy commercial heart of Bugis, a Chinatown far more gentrified than when we were last in Singapore, the Muslim Malay neighbourhood of Kampong Glam with its increasingly hip little lanes, the Art Deco quarter of Tiong Bahru with its pockets of chic, and colourful Little India, where we felt some underlying racial tension, but that’s another story. Unlike previous trips, our visit to Orchard Road was very brief.

One month in Singapore may seem like a long time to stay in a city that most travellers treat as a stopover destination, yet somehow we still left feeling like we had really only just scratched the surface with a to-do list for the next trip longer than the one we started out with. But I always find that to be the way these days. Are we better at identifying places? Or are our appetites more insatiable?

From Singapore it was back to our second home Bangkok for eight nights for more magazine stories on the city’s best restaurants and food scene, on Chef David Thompson, and the restaurant movement toward heritage cuisine, regional/local cuisines and cooking ancestral food that we believe David and Bo and Dylan of Bo.lan inspired when they opened their restaurants four and five years ago respectively. Look out for that piece in the next issue of Bangkok Airways’ Fah Thai magazine and we’ll share more thoughts with you on that subject here as well.

This recent trip wasn’t solely about the food. In all three destinations we got to test out some truly outstanding hotels, from sleek, stylish properties like Capella and Park Royal Pickering in Singapore to the big luxury hotels in Bangkok like the Mandarin Oriental (which we’ve now been fortunate enough to stay at a few times), Metropolitan by Como (a second stay), and Siam Kempinski and Four Seasons (both firsts).

Checking in and out of hotels every two days is nothing new to us on these sorts of work trips, but twenty-one hotels (and one apartment!) in a row really got us thinking (again) about what works and what doesn’t when it comes to hotels, and what sort of things make a hotel truly great. Or terribly disappointing. More on that topic soon too.

And more on Phuket, Singapore and Bangkok, and all the delicious food we ate and things we did on the trip, as well as other destinations we are way behind in posting on, from Brisbane to Adelaide in Australia to all over New Zealand, and everywhere from Borneo and Kuala Lumpur to Northern Thailand and Hanoi, Hue and Hoi An, Sapa and Saigon.

Do look out for our print stories also. We have quite a lot out there at the moment, all featuring Terence’s mouthwatering images, including pieces in Travel+LeisureAsia on the foodie renaissance of Battambang (March issue), Hoi An’s best Six Dishes (April issue) and Siem Reap’s best Six Dishes (next issue). We’ve got stories in Australian Gourmet Traveller on Battambang’s Jaan Bai restaurant (issue before last), on Aziamendi in Phuket and a Singapore guide (next issue), and a Phuket guide (issue after).

We’ll also have a long foodie feature on Battambang and Cambodian cuisine in next month’s Delicious magazine. In Southeast Asia Globe there was a piece on Battambang’s Jaan Bai last issue, on food trends in Southeast Asia in the current issue, and on David Thompson in the next Interview issue. There’s a lot more coming out too, both in print and online, that I’ll update you on as the publications hit the stands.

Until then… it’s dinnertime and time to eat!

Apr 03

Authentic Beef Massaman Curry Recipe

Thai Beef Massaman Curry. Copyright 2014 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

An authentic beef Massaman curry is my favourite kind of Thai curry so there was no doubt I’d get around to making it sooner or later as part of our Year of Asian Cookbooks project. It’s the earthiness of Southern Thailand’s Massaman curry that makes this the most moreish of all curries. While the prep list is long and the cooking time requires the patience of a saint, it’s by far the most rewarding to make.

While writing up the Geng Gari Gai recipe for an aromatic chicken curry courtesy of Chef David Thompson I recalled that he always used to have a chicken Massaman (also spelt Mussaman and Matsaman) on his Nahm restaurant menu and not the beef that I always associated with this flavourful curry.

On our recent visit to the Chef’s Bangkok restaurant to interview him for some stories we’re working on, David told me that chicken was more commonly used in the curry outside of restaurants. I was always skeptical of the chicken version until I tasted David’s — it was brilliant — but I still preferred the slow-cooked beef version when I cooked at home.

There are different stories as to how this ‘foreign’ curry ended up a staple curry in the Thai cooking cannon. The most exotic story suggests it travelled from Persia to the Court of Ayutthaya in the sixteenth century. Another story goes that it was brought to southern Thailand by Arab or Indian traders. The use of popular Middle Eastern spices like cardamom and cloves is an indication of that ‘foreign’ influence, although in the present day recipes the use of Thai cardamom instead of Indian is preferred by most chefs because of its more subtle flavour.

Perhaps another indication of its roots in India, Persia (now Iran) or the Arab world is the version that uses lamb instead of chicken or beef. This recipe by Chef Ian Kittichai from his Issaya Siamese Club cookbook is one of my favourite lamb versions as he uses lamb shanks. You get the delicious flavour from the bones in the sauce and the lovely fall-off-the-bone tenderness in the meat that’s so desirable when making this dish.

Of course, being in Cambodia, lamb shanks are neither in the markets nor the supermarkets and is a special order item from a local restaurant wholesalers we occasionally sneak into, so I’ve used local beef instead and given how tough it is, I’ve cooked it for a really, really, long time.

While I’m using Chef Kittichai’s recipe, I couldn’t help but refer to David Thompson’s versions in his Thai Food cookbook as several things stand out.

While shrimp paste is almost mandatory in Thai curries, David uses no shrimp paste in his Massaman recipes, perhaps as a nod to the true origins of the dish. David also prefers to use cassia bark rather than cinnamon, which he says has a “richer and oilier flavour” that’s very well suited to such a powerful dish.

A quick note on toasting spices as Chef Kittichai roasts all of them off at once in this recipe. I have always wondered why chefs like David Thompson roast off all the spices separately, adding a lot of time to the making the dish. The answer was obvious when I asked David why he did it: “because they all take different amounts of time to roast,” he answered dryly. Of course.

Another thing to note in this recipe is the amounts of tamarind juice and fish sauce used. While Chef Kittiachai always says to add half the amounts of ‘seasoning’ (generally meaning things like fish sauce, tamarind or palm sugar) to begin to achieve the right balance, or rot chart in Thai, the amounts listed, in my opinion, are far greater than necessary.

I would start with a couple of tablespoons of both the tamarind juice and fish sauce and adjust as necessary as you go. As I have learnt from watching David at work in the kitchen on several occasions, perfecting a dish’s seasoning is really up to the individual chef.

As the flavours develop in a dish such as this over a couple of hours, you need to make sure you taste it often and adjust the seasoning to suit your palate — the recipe is a guide to get you to the point where you can make it your own.

Nam Prik Kaeng Matsaman (Massaman Curry Paste)

6 g coriander seeds
6 g cumin seeds
15 g coarse sea salt
1.5 g white peppercorns
30 g dried red finger chilli peppers
120 g lemongrass, finely sliced
120 g shallots, finely chopped
30 g garlic cloves
15 g galangal, finely sliced
3 g kaffir lime zest, grated
1 g kaffir lime leaves, finely chopped
20 g Thai shrimp paste
6 g coriander root
1 g white cardamom
3 g cinnamon sticks
1 g cloves
30 ml vegetable oil
0.7 g nutmeg grated

1. In a dry pan, combine the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, white cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, white peppercorns, dried red finger chilli peppers and coarse sea salt and cook over moderate heat until the chillis brown. Place the spices in a mortar and finely grind or use a food processor and blend until smooth.
2. Wrap shrimp paste in a section of banana leaf (or foil) and roast the parcel in a frying pan for one minute on each side. Remove shrimp paste from the parcel and set aside.
3. Pour oil in a pan and sauté shallots, garlic cloves, galangal, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and Thai shrimp paste until slightly browned. Remove the mixture from the heat.
4. When cool, place in a mortar with the ground spices, and add the nutmeg, coriander roots and lime zest and finely grind or use a food processor and blend until smooth.

Note that this curry can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to five days.

Ingredients for the curry base
120 g Nam Phrik Kaeng Matsaman (Matsaman Curry Paste)
100 ml vegetable oil
1 litre coconut milk
250 ml water
80 g palm sugar
300 ml tamarind juice*
150 ml fish sauce*
20 Thai cardamom, whole
20 g cinnamon sticks, whole

Directions to make the curry base
1. In a saucepan, heat the curry paste and oil over high heat.
2. Add coconut milk and water and cook until boiling.
3. Reduce to medium heat, stir in palm sugar, tamarind juice, fish sauce, Thai cardamom and cinnamon sticks.

Ingredients for the Matsaman Neua (Beef Matsaman)
800 g beef shank or flank
30 ml vegetable oil
100 g potatoes, cubed and roasted or deep fried
50 g small shallots, whole, peeled and roasted or deep fried
2 g coriander sprigs

Directions for the Matsaman Neua (Beef Matsaman)
1. In a hot pan, add oil and sear off the beef pieces.
2. In a pan, bring Matsaman Curry to a boil.
3. Add beef to the curry and cook for two hours at a simmer.
4. The beef should be tender enough to pull apart with a fork, if not keep cooking for another hour or so.
5. When the beef is ready, remove from heat and garnish with coriander sprigs.
6. Serve with steamed jasmine rice on the side.

*Start with just a couple of tablespoons of each and adjust to your own taste as the dish develops.

This post is the latest in our A Year of Asian Cookbooks series. The last post was on a Southern Thailand Geng Gari Gai Aromatic Chicken Curry Recipe, courtesy of Chef David Thompson of Nahm Banbkok.

Mar 10

Monday Memories: a Return to Instagram and Food Photography

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Copyright 2014 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

It was this photo (above) that resulted in me giving up posting to Instagram just over a year ago. It didn’t happen straight after I posted the image, but a couple of months later when Lara asked me for the high-res, DSLR version of the image for a magazine story. But there was no high-res image. I’d never taken it. I was too busy feeding the Instagram beast.

There was, however, another reason. Instagram had been bought by Facebook, a company I loathe, and I had deleted my Facebook account months ago after a social media project where I thought I would need it finished. It’s not for me.

However, given that our work is generally driven by good, old-fashioned print assignments and that the ink drying on our print articles and photos for magazines tends to fall way out of sync with where we actually are, I recently decided to start posting photos on Instagram again.

To be honest, I missed the instant feedback resulting from posting an image of what we’re doing while on assignment. I can quickly see which images resonate with viewers on Instagram and while it’s not going to alter the shoot for a magazine client, I do pay attention to what images get the most likes. Why wouldn’t you?

Over the past 12 months we’ve also become much better at managing our time on shoots and interviews — even if we do tend to turn 30-minute interviews into 90-minute ones, we’ve still allocated time to taking a few snapshots to post to show you what we’re up to.

I think “Instagram works best in close up using details to capture a mood or feeling,” to quote Peter Springett, who had some nice things to say a few years ago about my use of the tool, when he wrote about a series of food shots I took documenting my laksa making experiments.

There’s been some stunning food to photograph — not to mention eat – here in Singapore (although we haven’t tried nearly enough laksa) so check out our food-tastic feed here:


Mar 08

Southern Thailand Geng Gari Gai Aromatic Chicken Curry Recipe

Geng Gari Gai (Aromatic Chicken Curry), by David Thompson. Copyright 2014 Terence Carter / Grantourismo. All Rights Reserved.

This old Southern Thailand Geng Gari Gai aromatic chicken curry recipe “has a rich and delicious depth that only something rooted in the past can have,” according to Chef David Thompson of Nahm restaurant in Bangkok, who taught the dish to participants, including myself, at a culinary workshop held in Singapore last week as part of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards events.

On the morning of the Awards — in which Thompson’s Nahm would be voted Asia’s best restaurant — I attended a culinary workshop cum cooking demo with just 11 other participants, spending a couple of hours with the chef, with plenty of time to ask questions about the dishes made and Thai curries more generally.

While I haven’t got this recipe from a book, as I have the others I’ve been making as part of our Year of Asian Cookbooks project, I thought the historic Thai recipe was a perfect candidate for the project for a few reasons.

The dish is a ‘foreign’ curry, according to Thompson, meaning that it was made using ingredients that fall outside the general Thai curry paste traditions. In other words, it uses lots of dry spices.

“Foreign curries, coming from the Muslim south or over the border from Burma, still have the hallmarks of their origins,” Chef Thompson explained. “Most traditional Thai curries have very few dried spices. Of course, they have dried chillies, but they do not have various things like coriander seeds or cumin seeds or cloves or other dry spices like that.”

The chef introduced this as a 120 year old recipe that he found intriguing because of the methods of preparation and marination. While he says that there are versions that are both simpler and more complex, this one had “quite an unusual combination of techniques that suggest the past; a greater complexity.”

What the chef is talking about when it comes to techniques is that, firstly, the chillies for the curry paste are prepared separately — some are grilled and some soaked. The shallots for the curry are grilled first because, as Thompson explains, “grilling the shallots gives them, not surprisingly, a smoky, richer, more redolent taste.”

The second key difference is that the chicken in this version is marinated in fish sauce and then curry paste for a few hours. Then all of the meat and curry paste are cooked together in coconut milk.

“What intrigues me with this recipe,” Thompson explains, “Is that normally you would poach the meat off in coconut milk, you’d skim off some of that cream that comes to the top, then you’d put it into another pot and fry off the curry paste before pouring it back in.”

“This is the modern, conventional way of doing it,” he elaborates. “With this one the technique that I’m about to show you is one that’s original for this Geng Gari style of curry. It makes it slightly oilier and slightly richer.”

I hope to be able to do a round up of tips for making curries later from Chef Thompson but, for now, one specific recommendation for this recipe is to always season in stages. Chef only put about half of the spices into the curry at first, gradually adding more as he felt they were needed.

“While I adore these older recipes, they’re not there as gospel,” he said, “They’re used as a guideline and to bring them to the present you bring your own sense of taste to them as well.”

Geng Gari Gai Aromatic Chicken Curry

Recipe courtesy of Chef David Thompson of Nahm restaurant Bangkok was shared with the class during his workshop held as part of the 2014 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards events in Singapore.

Geng Gari Curry Paste

5 large dried red chillis (grilled)
3 small dried red chillis (grilled)
5 unpeeled red shallots (grilled, then peeled)
2 stalks lemongrass, sliced
4 coriander roots, cleaned and chopped
1 pinch whole white pepper
1/2 tablespoon toasted coriander seed, finely ground
1/2 teaspoon toasted cumin seed

Chicken and Marinade

2 Chicken Legs (thigh & drumstick)
2 tablespoons fish sauce
4 tablespoons geng gari curry paste

The Curry

1 cup fresh coconut cream
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
1 tablespoon toasted ground coriander seed
3/4 tablespoon toasted ground cumin seed
pinch of toasted cloves
6 red shallots
1 teaspoon palm sugar
2–3 tablespoons fish sauce
additional coconut cream (for presentation)
1–2 cups chicken stock
2 medium/large rate potatoes, simmered (optionally in chicken stock), peeled and cut into 2 cm cubes
1 pandanus leaf, knotted
1 3 cm piece cassia bark, toasted
1 squeeze mandarin juice

To Finish

Deep fried shallots
Deep fried garlic

To Serve

Jasmine Rice

Cucumber relish (see next recipe)


1. Cut the chicken leg into two through the thigh joint. If the pieces are large, cut each one in half again.

2. Marinate the chicken in the fish sauce for an hour and then mix in the curry paste and leave for a few hours.

3. Heat fresh coconut cream and then add marinated chicken and simmer gently along with most of the dried spices and turmeric.

4. When almost cooked (ours took around 40 minutes) add the shallots and simmer, seasoning with palm sugar and fish sauce. Simmer until it becomes quite oily and add extra coconut cream as required.

5. Add the chicken stock and simmer until the chicken is cooked. When the chicken is cooked add the potatoes, the pandanus and toasted cassia bark.

6. Check the seasoning. It should be rich, salty and lightly spiced.

7. With the seasoning correct, leave for 20 minutes in a warm place to let the spices ‘ripen’.

8. Reheat and check the seasoning. Adjust as necessary to taste.

9. Finish with a squeeze of mandarin, if using.

The last recipe in our Year of Asian Cookbooks project was on the Northern Thai pork belly curry Gaeng Hang Lay Moo from Ian Kittichai’s Issaya Siamese Club cookbook.

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