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Gamelan Lessons in Bali — Getting Giddy with the Gamelan in Ubud

Gamelan Lessons in Bali — Getting Giddy with the Gamelan in Ubud

The gamelan and its music had always intrigued me as a musician. I’ve always found the Indonesian ensemble of metallophones, xylophones, gongs, and various other instruments wonderful to listen to, but I had little idea as to how the hell they made that enchanting noise. Was there...
Taking Stock at Tsukiji Fish Markets in Tokyo

Taking Stock at Tsukiji Fish Markets in Tokyo

Although many of our readers seem to think we’re on a one-year round-the-world food odyssey rather than a grand tour of the globe, we just like visiting food markets and talking to chefs, waiters, restaurateurs, and food enthusiasts. All the same, I was ambivalent about...
Paolo Olbi, Venice’s Master of Paper, Printing and Bookbinding

Paolo Olbi, Venice’s Master of Paper, Printing and Bookbinding

Bookbinder Paolo Olbi, and his typesetter Beppi, may be Venice’s last great artisans, making every component of their beautiful products  by hand in Paolo’s atmospheric workshop in Castello. I first stumbled across one of Paolo’s shops on Campo Santa Maria Nova by accident and was...
Čedo from the Desert, the Original Character of Kotor

Čedo from the Desert, the Original Character of Kotor

Čedo Pustinjac is a handsome, grey-haired gentleman in traditional costume whom you’ll probably meet as you enter the Sea Gate to Kotor’s Stari Grad (Old Town). This ‘original character’, a charming eccentric, will warmly greet you and happily offer his advice or directions in any one of the...