Istanbul may not be a great eating city in the way that Tokyo or Barcelona are, but what it lacks in variety, complexity and creativity, it makes up for in terms of tastiness, quality and fun. While it may only boast a handful of innovative, elegant restaurants such as Mikla, for us the best times are to be had in the simple neighbourhood eateries of Beyoğlu. These are our favorites from our two weeks of trying them.
VAN KAHVALTI EVI
Defterdar Yokuşu 52A, Cihangir
After Terence’s Turkish-inspired eggs on our Istanbul apartment terrace, this popular all-day breakfast café in Cihangir, Van Breakfast House, is my favourite spot for breakfast in the city. Much of the organic produce comes from Van in eastern Turkey and they do several scrumptious breakfast spreads made up mostly of produce from the region. I love their Breakfast of Van Golu which consists of a big platter of cheeses – white cheese, string cheese, village cheese, new Kashkawal cheese, and herbed cheese – along with black and green olives, tomato, cucumber, and boiled eggs, and dishes of honey comb, marmalade, and heavenly clotted cream. Terence can’t go here without ordering menemen (eggs with tomato salsa) and they do half a dozen varieties, but he’s smitten with the Sucuklu menemen with spicy Turkish sausage. Their fresh pomegranate juice is delicious too and the hipster scene also makes for some fun people watching.
KARADENİZ ŞİMŞEK PİDE SALONU
Taksim Cadessi 8, Beyoğlu
I couldn’t believe our luck when I realised that this terrific pide salon was right around the corner from our Istanbul holiday rental. You can eat in or take away and I was secretly pleased that we were too exhausted from our flight to go out the first night we arrived as it was a good excuse to get some take-away Turkish ‘pizza’! I love that it’s a family-ran business and the owner, Şubemiz, who is a very sweet guy, takes his pide very seriously. The boat-shaped Kıymalı Sade with finely-ground minced meat is my favourite while Terence likes the Karışık or ‘mixed’ pide, with sausage, fried eggs, tomatoes, and peppers, which is like a cross between a pizza and a hamburger ‘with the lot’.
ZÜBEYIR OCAKBAŞı
Bekar Sokak 28, Beyoğlu
We walked past this popular grill house on the corner of our block every day, and its three floors of dining and outdoor tables were always packed, often late into the night, with loud groups of locals tucking into plates of succulent grilled kebaps. Foodies should try to get a table around the ocakbası, the long copper-hooded hearth, where the cook grills the meats over coals. We devoured the tasty chilli dip (ezme), (smoky) roasted aubergine (patlican kozde), a colossal fresh ‘special salad’ (gavur dagı), ‘special’ lamb ribs (tarak), and a mixed kebap plate, which included tawk şiş (chicken shish), pirzola (lamb chops), and beyti kebap (skewered garlic minced kebab). It was far too much food! They serve some decent Turkish wines, however, they’re too expensive for what they are and you’re better off doing what the locals do and drinking raki.
KREPENDEKI IMROZ
Nevizade Sokak 24, Beyoğlu
It’s impossible to not eat on Nevizade Sokak at least once. The narrow lane is lined with busy bars and meyhanes (traditional Turkish taverns), which the wee hours. Sure, you could simply take in the scene from a pavement table at one of pubs while you sip some beers, but you’d be missing what the street is all about. This is where groups of locals go to begin their big nights out by lingering over long meals, so the people watching is fascinating. The best meyhane of the lot is Imroz – its outside tables are always crammed with locals and it’s the only one where the waiters don’t hassle passerbys when they’re slow. Imroz is actually owned by a family that came from the Aegean island of Imroz (Gökçeada in Turkish), and while the cuisines are very similar, this is about as Turkish as meyhanes come. The meal starts with mezze, which you choose from the tray the waiter brings to the table. Portions are small for the price compared to Zübeyir Ocakbaşı where they’re twice the size, but they were incredibly tasty – the hamsi tursu (pickled anchovy) and patlican soslu (aubergine and tomato salad) were sublime.
FICCIN
Kallavi Sokak 13/1, Beyoğlu
My heritage is Russian so I grew up on my grandmother’s varenyki and pilimeni, that is, boiled potato/cream cheese and meat dumplings, so I have a soft spot for this charming, family owned restaurant that specializes in the cuisine from the Caucasus, and ‘Circassian ravioli’ specifically. Swimming in a sea of sour cream with a drizzle of chilli oil, Ficcin’s ‘ravioli’ is more like my Babouskha’s Russian dumplings and Ukranian pierogi/Polish pyrogi than Italian ravioli. The menu, which changes daily, is long, and includes all the usual Turkish standards, but I wouldn’t come here for anything else. Other than a mixed salad, which won’t make you feel so guilty for slurping up all that sour cream. If you’re after atmosphere, head here for lunch when it can sometimes be tricky to get a table. If you want a quick meal, drop by at night, but be aware that you could occasionally be eating on your own.
SIIRT ŞEREF BÜRYAN KEBABı SALONU
Kadinlar Pazari, Fatih
We lunched here somewhat serendipitously. We were heading to see a master luthier in a neighbourhood close to Fatih (on the Sultanahmet side of water) to buy Terence a baglama, so we decided to try a restaurant I’d read about on the way. Despite the great reviews, the restaurant was empty with several staff sitting around drinking coffee out front, yet, by contrast, a couple of blocks away, Siirt Şeref Büryan Kebabı Salonu was crowded with tables of local businessmen and families. The casual eatery is located near Kadinlar Pazari, a pedestrianised square known as Little Kurdistan, as residents here come from Siirt, Kurdish city and province close to the Syrian and Iraqi borders. While we know the cuisine in that far north-eastern corner of Syria, we didn’t know anything about the food from Siirt, so we did that “we’ll have what they’re having” thing and pointed to the other tables. What everybody was having were the two dishes Siirt is famous for: perde pilav and büryan kebap, which this family has famously been making for some 120 years. The büryan kebap involves lamb being cooked over a wood fire in a pit sealed by mud. You can have it on the bone (kemikli) or boneless (kemiksiz), but either way it’s served on a thick grilled piece of bread to soak up the fat. A warning: it is very fatty. We actually preferred the fez-shaped Perde Pilau, a delicious rice cooked with spices and almonds in filo pastry in a pot. It was sublime. After your meal, take a stroll around the square to check out the shops selling cheeses, honeycomb and spices from Siirt. Trust us, you’ll need the exercise!
SOFYALI 9
Sofyali Sokak 9, off Asmalimescit Cadessi, Beyoğlu
Open all day, this traditional meyhane in Beyoğlu’s funky eating and drinking quarter, Asmalimescit, is a great place to stop for a bite to eat any time of the day or night. The interior is charmingly rustic, but the terrace is where it’s at on a fine day or weekend evening. The cold starters are reliable (we loved the fursu, red pepper pickle, which was fiery) and the meat dishes are delicious (the Izgara Kofte was especially tasty), but servings here are huge, so plan on having just one main meat dish between two. And a bottle of raki is a must.
FÜRREYYA
Serdar-i Ekrem Sokak 2, Beyoğlu
You can’t help but notice this hip little place as you skip down the hill to Galata Bridge, not far from Galata Tower. Unless you’re super-fit you probably won’t see it as you’re hiking up because you’ll be too focused on catching your breath. If the stylish, minimalist design doesn’t grab your attention, the jazz soundtrack should. The casual seafood eatery has just half a dozen tables, a small space at the bar, a compact kitchen, and a couple of friendly owners. We have to say that the food was hit and miss. The fish soup was scrumptious, if a little salty; the friend anchovies and white beans were delicious; the seasonal salad of mixed lettuce greens, mint, parsley, dill, and basil, was one of the best green salads we’ve ever had; and the fried calamari was absolutely perfect. A plate of ‘fish meatballs’ was fine, but served with a very strange sauce. There’s no alcohol on the menu, but ask for a wine or beer and a waiter will trot off and return a few minutes later with a paper bag.
ABRACADABRA
Arnavutköy Cadessi 50/1, Arnavutköy
I had high expectations after reading reviews that claimed Abracadabra’s chef was a pioneer of Turkish fusion cuisine and this was some of the most innovative food in Istanbul. Those critics obviously hadn’t eaten at Mikla (see below). While I was initially disappointed (Terence disliked it a lot), once I understood where it was in actual fact at, I rather enjoyed it. If you understand that what you’re going to get is an ever-so-slightly more creative spin on meyhane-style eating then you should too. The falafel, fried calamari and fish balls were delicious though nothing out of the ordinary, a celery and walnut dip was delicious, while the ‘Caucasian-style duck puree’ was more interesting than it sounded, when in fact it was little more than a good pâté. There were a couple more interesting-sounding things on the menu (such as a raw salmon kofte), which the waitress said wasn’t all that special. Seriously. Abracadabra may not be all that magical, but Arnavutköy is and a stroll along the waterfront after your meal is a must. Note: if you don’t take a boat here insist your taxi drives alongside the water, which is the fastest, cheapest and more scenic route
ANTIOCHIA
Minare Sokak, Asmalimescit
I’m not sure why, but this hip little basement eatery (with tables outside that seem to attract groups) reminds me of the casual eateries we used to frequent in Sydney many years ago. There’s a short menu, a good wine list, an open kitchen, a simple but stylish design, and casual, friendly staff dressed in black. The food is from the south-eastern Hatay region near the border with Syria, so you can expect to see Syrian staples on the menu such as mouhammara, a red pepper, walnut and pomegranate dip, though it’s nowhere near as good in Turkey as it is in Syria (not even here). We order the appetizer plate, which included an assortment of tasty dips, but we regretted not getting the minced meat wrap, which our neighbours at the next table had.
MIKLA
Marmara Pera Hotel, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 167/185, Beyoğlu
The last time we were in Istanbul, we were here to cover the opening of the W Hotel and Jean-George’s restaurant, Spice Market. Our restaurant tips came from Jean-George and hotel staff, so as you’d expect we made the rounds of the latest, hippest restaurant openings. Many in fact were disappointing. They were innovative but inconsistent, or they were fashionable but over-priced for the quality and style of the food coming out of the kitchen. There was only one restaurant that really stood out and was consistent in terms of quality, creativity and price, and that was Mikla the stylish restaurant of Turkish-Finnish Chef Mehmet Gurs. In keeping with our sustainable and local travel themes, we’d decided that we weren’t going to try any of the so-called latest and greatest restaurants this time, but we couldn’t resist returning to Mikla. We were pleased to see some of our favourite dishes from a few years ago on the tasting menu, including a North Aegean raw grouper with lemon and kalamata olives, and the Cherry-wood smoked lamb loin with walnut pistou. The dishes were as elegant and as refined as the dining space. Why aren’t more restaurants like this? The rooftop views are spectacular by the way too.
14 comments
DaddyBird says:
December 20, 2010 at 10:20 pm (UTC 10 )
So where do the taxi drivers and laborers eat?
Lara Dunston says:
December 26, 2010 at 12:58 pm (UTC 10 )
Loads of places for those guys, all over the city, but not really in this area because most of it is pedestrianised and they need to park the cab, right? When are you guys heading there? Soon, right? And where are you staying? I think you’d like most of the restos above, maybe not Mikla…? Try a few and let us know!
Rebecca says:
December 21, 2010 at 9:32 pm (UTC 10 )
Oh my, I’m ravenous now! That food looks amazing!
Lara Dunston says:
December 26, 2010 at 12:59 pm (UTC 10 )
Thanks, much appreciated! Thanks for dropping by!
The Turkish Life says:
December 27, 2010 at 1:46 am (UTC 10 )
Great list (and scrumptious photos!) — you hit a lot of my favorites here and gave me some new ones to try too. Did you make it to Çiya or the Akdeniz Hatay Sofrası?
lara dunston says:
December 27, 2010 at 2:08 am (UTC 10 )
Thanks! We did get to Ciya at the end of this markets tour: http://grantourismotravels.com/2010/12/16/spices-pickles-sweets-other-delights-istanbuls-markets/ but to be honest we were disappointed with the mezze, which we generally find inferior to that in Syria, Lebanon, etc; we also don’t usually like to eat at restaurants with big tour groups and lots of guidebook-carrying travellers, which is what we found that day. But having said that, the kebabs were the most succulent and sublime we’ve ever eaten and we would have gone there again just for those!
We didn’t get to Akdeniz Hatay Sofrasi, but we will put that on the list for next time. I’m assuming the food is from the Hatay region, right? That’s our favourite as we love Syrian cuisine. More tips welcome to – for our future trips – and that of our readers!
Ellen says:
January 8, 2012 at 10:43 pm (UTC 10 )
Great guide! I’m bookmarking this for the next time I’m in Istanbul!
Lara Dunston says:
January 9, 2012 at 2:01 pm (UTC 10 )
Thanks, Ellen! Much appreciated. Get back to us and let us know what you do/don’t like.
The Turkish Life says:
January 8, 2012 at 10:44 pm (UTC 10 )
Abracadabra’s now closed, I’m afraid, but the chef’s new casual breakfast/lunch place in Cihangir, Datli Maya, is super.
For a nicer (but not too posh) meal, don’t miss Maya Lokanta in Karaköy. Next-door meyhane Karaköy Lokantası is great too.
Also recommend Mohti and Hayvore (no alcohol) for Black Sea food.
Lara Dunston says:
January 9, 2012 at 2:00 pm (UTC 10 )
Thanks for the tips! Much appreciated. Love Black Sea food. You’ve made me want to return to Istanbul – one of my favourite cities. Thanks for visiting!
Pat Yale says:
January 9, 2012 at 12:03 am (UTC 10 )
Sadly, Abracadabra is no more. I too have had mixed experiences at Ciya, not because of tour groups though. But Akdeniz Hatay Sofrasi does a superb b’fast with 71 items to choose from. Not to mention it’s excellent chicken baked in salt.
Lara Dunston says:
January 9, 2012 at 1:58 pm (UTC 10 )
Thanks for the update re Abracadabra, Pat. Is there something else there in that spot? Love that location. Yeah, Ciya is an interesting one – gets a lot of press, doesn’t it? Thanks for the tips and thanks for dropping by!
Liv says:
January 12, 2012 at 3:39 pm (UTC 10 )
I really miss Turkish food having lived in Turkey for several years. I’m based in rural Australia at the moment and I take great delight in visiting our local Turkish kebab shop (run by real Turks!) but it’s not the same!
Terence Carter says:
January 12, 2012 at 4:02 pm (UTC 10 )
Yep, we’re currently in rural Australia as well and we really miss the lamb dishes so I end up making them myself…
We always try kebabs around the world and they are always different!
Cheers,
T