Due to its colossal population of American and Canadian expats (around 10%!), San Miguel de Allende is derided as a destination by travellers looking for a more ‘authentic’ Mexican experience, but it is a beautiful town and it is worth staying a while.
Here’s how to get the most out of a visit to San Miguel:
- Learn something – plenty of expats come here to study art or learn Spanish. The Instituto Allende offers all kinds of classes in everything from painting to traditional textile making. We got a taste of silver making with Jose Antonio Lopez.
- Shop for local souvenirs – San Miguel is famed for its fabulous shopping and you’ll find beautiful handicrafts from all over Mexico, as well as unique products by local designers at Ave Maria.
- Meet locals – it’s undeniable that there are a lot of expats around and you’ll hear English nearly as much as Spanish, but it’s not hard to meet Mexicans if you try. Want some tips? Start with our new friend Giovanna.
- Master the art of Mexican cooking – San Miguel doesn’t have a great dining scene – a lot of restaurants serve up ‘international’ cuisine and Tex-Mex to appeal to expat palates. Why not enrol in a traditional Mexican cooking course (we tried Marilau’s), rent a place with a great kitchen, and cook to your stomach’s content?
- Stroll the streets – San Miguel oozes plenty of colonial charm from its cobblestone streets and splendid churches and is a delight to stroll. Don’t believe us? See this post and check out this video. Take a walk in the late afternoon to see the colours are their most stunning.
- Hang out in El Jardin – there is always something going on in the pretty garden and adjacent main square: from folkloric performances and wedding parties to mariachis serenading couples in love. Simply sit back and soak it all up for a while.
- Do taco-stand hops – taste an array of terrific tacos and tostadas at the many taco stands that dot San Miguel’s streets. Most set up just before sun set and some don’t close until well after midnight. Look for the ones where loads of locals are eating or head straight to our favourite.
- Sip tequila to the sound of rancheros – listen to singer Benjamin Lara sing melancholy songs at his atmospheric bar until the wee hours.
- Join a gang – perhaps you’re here because you want to hang out with expats, you want to buy a house in San Miguel de Allende and retire, or maybe, like Richard Lander, you’re an anthropologist at heart – either way, get a guide to the local Gangs of San Miguel de Allende here.
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cindy espinoza
October 1, 2010 at 5:39 am (UTC 10) Link to this comment
I LOVE San Miguel de Allende. I was a bit skeptical visiting because I knew there were a lot of expats there, but I still had the feeling of authentic mexico. you are right about the restaurants serving more international food, but there are still great little places serving authentic food…especially in the market. I have some great pcitures and tips on my blog too if you want to check it out. http://cindyjespinoza.blogspot.com/2009/09/viva-mexico-4-san-miguel-de-allende.html
Lara Dunston
September 30, 2012 at 12:11 pm (UTC 10) Link to this comment
Totally agree with you about authenticity – it’s still very local. We had some great local experiences, like stumbling across a wedding party that took over the central plaza and danced their way through the streets one night http://grantourismotravels.com/2010/09/23/a-wedding-party-san-miguel/ and the folkloric shows here http://grantourismotravels.com/2010/09/17/staged-tourism-or-a-celebration-of-culture/ where the audience was almost entirely locals (watching their kids, family, friends perform perhaps) and discovering these bars/music venues that were mostly full of locals and some more intrepid tourists/expats http://grantourismotravels.com/2010/09/22/the-sounds-of-san-miguel-de-allende/
Agree that there *are* still great little spots, they’re just harder to find than most Mexican towns. We’ll definitely be checking out your blog – thanks for the link
And thanks for calling in! So sorry I missed this comment of yours when you posted it.
Sam
November 5, 2012 at 5:44 pm (UTC 10) Link to this comment
Hello! Just wondering if you would recommend the course with Antonio over the Instituto Allende? Both have offered to take me through a seven-to-ten- day crash course. I’m so short on time, but I’m pretty serious about getting myself started on the silver smithing trail! Thanks for your time
Lara Dunston
November 7, 2012 at 1:05 am (UTC 10) Link to this comment
Hi Sam – we don’t have any experience of the Instituto Allende course, so it’s difficult for us to make a comparison. Both got great reviews from what we heard. We thoroughly enjoyed meeting Antonio, he really knows his stuff, and people seem to love his workshops as they’re more flexible, relaxed, and allow people to go at their own pace. If you find you don’t enjoy it as much as you thought you might, then it’s not hard to let Antonio know and he completely understands. Let us know what you end up doing and how you enjoy it. Thanks for dropping by!